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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Hi everyone!

I was doing a web search to read about router bit brands and came across this site. Looks like a great place for information and support, especially for a rookie like me!

I just got a new Bosch router and table last week and have been trying to get some good results. I don't think the equipment is the problem (I read a good number of reviews on this and other routers) - but I am having problems just getting a good rabbet and dado fit. Any advice will be greatly welcomed!

I was trying to mock up a jewelry box, and am just using some scrap cedar right now. I found my dado's weren't the same depth across the piece, and figured out that my pieces had some twist in them (which, I believe, caused on end of the dado to be cut where the material was lifted off of the router table). So I spent more time milling another piece to try out. Does this seem correct?

I have a bunch of questions but I'll list a few...

I'm right now using a cheap Ryobi 1/4" bit. I'm getting okay results at times but I think I'd be better off with a better bit. I'm thinking of Freud just because I know them, but the MLCS sound good too - a bit cheaper which may be good while learning. I'm thinking of a 1/2" straight bit, and maybe a 1/4" (so I can make the smaller dado for a jewelry box - or should I just make the dado on my little table saw?).

Also, the router is variable speed. Is there someplace that lists the best settings per bit size per wood type? What about feed rates? I've seen people mention feeding at certain inches per second. How do you determine that?

Again - thanks for any advice or pointers! I'm sure I'll probably poke around and find the answers too!

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 11:38 AM
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Default dado depth

A couple of things could be happening to cause the depth of the dado to vary. First, the bit could be slipping in the collet, causing the bit to rise during the cut. This is an official "Bad Thing". Make sure both the bit and the inside surfaces of the collet are clean (naptha is good for this), and make sure you are positioning the bit in the collet properly - a 1/16" or so from the bottom. If the collet is riding on the little curve at the top of the shaft, you won't get a tight fit.

Or, you might have waste material blocking the bit, pushing it out of the cut. Sometimes, a spiral bit produces a better cut. Plus, for deeper dados, you may need to make multiple passes.

Feed rate is one of those intuitive things that one just learns. Too slow, and you'll likely get "burning" in the cut. Too fast, and both the wood and the router will "complain".

- Ralph
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 08:50 PM
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Hi randy,

Welcome to the forum

Sydney, Australia

I don't mind if other members disagree with my comments.
I don't profess to know everything, and I may learn something new.

"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity."

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-24-2010, 08:52 AM
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Greetings Randy and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us, and remember to have fun, build well and above all be safe.

Wisdom: Where experience and knowledge combine and become one.

"We are all one decision away from Stupid!!"

Lamentations 3:22-23

"How often we sacrifice the permanent plans of God on the altar of immediate solutions"

I have a very good memory, just short is all.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone!

I did verify it was a twist in the wood - the material was flush on the table for the leading edge of the cut but was off of the table at the end of the cut. It was a cross-grain cut, on the short edge of a piece about 8" by 3". I hadn't planed the piece before routing. I started on another box but this time read the directions for using my jointer and got a nice, flat piece! What a difference! The old RTFM still applies I guess.


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