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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Default Already Problems

Hi evryone from hot St Louis. I am just starting out and I seem to have a problem that I haven't run across in the forum.
I am attaching a Hitachi M12V to a Grizzly router table. I have taken out the springs and attached the height adjustment knob furnished by Hitachi. My problem is that I can't seem to get enough height thru the table. My bits are barely cutting into the wood. This must be a simple fix because I haven't read anyone else having this problem. HELP...Thanks in advance Larry Neuschu
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 03:24 PM
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Couple of questions to help get an idea of what's going on:

How thick is the Grizzly top?
Did you take the plastic sub base off your router?
Is the depth bar unlocked so the router can fully plunge?
How deep are you chucking your bits?
Are the router handles hitting anything on the underside of the table (you may have to remove them)

If the top is very thick, a simple solution could be a router bit extension.

1 John 1:9
Fredericksburg, VA
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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The table is 12/16 thick, the handles and sub base have been removed, and the depth bar is unlocked. I guess I will have to go with router bit extensions. Thanx, Neuschu
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 08:45 PM
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Grizzly makes 3 router tables that I know about you may want to check the manual to see if they show how to mount the router to the table, they may have a tricky way of doing it so you can use standard router bits.

BUT if not see below.
Extension are not cheap. the norm is about 50.oo bucks, but below you will see one at a great price.

Router Collet Extension 1/2" shank at 30.oo bucks
Plus this link below
at 23.oo bucks

this one is 25.oo bucks with free shipping

The MLCS Router Collet Extension

NEW! Extension for 1/4" bits works with 1/2" collet routers! Give your router bits an additional 2-1/4" (or 2" for #9468) when you extend them through the router table top with our router collet extension.
Eliminate the dangerous temptation of withdrawing the shank from the collet in order to raise the bit and to “provide the full depth of cut.” The router collet extension makes it possible to use all diameters of 1/2" and 1/4" shank bits safely. Place the router collet extension shank in the 1/2" router collet and the router bit shank in the extension collet and tighten both.
Instructions included.
Use with 1/2" collet routers only. FREE INSTRUCTIONS available for the Router Collet Extension.

Fine Woodworking featured the MLCS Router Collet Extension in the Tools & Materials section of issue #159 from December 2002.
Here are some quotes from the article:

“Collet Stretcher. The router collet extension from MLCS adds about 2-1/4” to the length of a router collet, a handy feature in the router table for above-the-table bit changes."

"When a router is mounted in a table, the collet of the router often ends up positioned well below the surface of the table, even after the motor has been raised to its maximum height. That means some bits are not able to reach far enough above the table to provide the full depth of cut.

Recently, MLCS began selling a router-collet extension that quickly remedies the problem. Also, as I quickly discovered, the extension makes bit changing a lot easier because the extension, which adds 2-1/4" in length, allows the collet to be raised well above the table. With the collet exposed it becomes relatively easy to work a pair of wrenches and change a bit."

“If you use a router table a lot and regularly struggle to install bits, the router extender might be worth a closer look."


From Wood Magazine's Shop Proven Products section in the March 2003 issue:

"Bit won't go high enough? Extend it.

Sometimes, especially with my table mounted plunge router, the combination of the router's limited plunge depth, the table insert's thickness, and a short shanked router bit cause me to tempt fate by pulling the bit farther out of the collet than I like, creating a safety hazard.
It is for such situations that MLCS sells the Router Collet Extension... installs just like a router bit. Once it's mounted, you insert your bit into the collet, tighten it as you normally would (you'll need a 1-1/16" open or adjustable end wrench), and begin routing.
I measured .006" of runout (wobble), but detected no increase in vibration or chatter when routing red oak (the router itself contributed less than .001" of runout). As a bonus, with the Router Collet Extension installed,
I found it was easy to change bits from above the table.
A few words of caution: extending your router's collet puts extra stress on the tool and its bearings, so take multiple passes on stock, especially with large diameter bits (MLCS recommends using bits no larger than 3-1/2"). "


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Last edited by bobj3; 07-30-2006 at 09:45 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2006, 08:55 PM
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Neuschu, since you live in St. Louis, consider going to Grizzly directly. They have 2 buildings not far from there. They may be able to help you. I also agree with the use of the collet extension.


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-31-2006, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot for the help. I agree that the collet extension is the way to go.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-01-2006, 01:33 PM
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You do not make mention of using a mounting plate. It sounds to me like this table is designed to have a plate installed. There are many styles of plates from many manufacturers. The most popular selling plate in the world is the Rousseau. Rousseau also offers a template and centering kits. Many users are now switching to a flat phenolic or aluminum plate. Both styles work well. Using a mounting plate will cost you less than a collet extender and be safer. Plates run about $35-50.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-22-2008, 10:32 PM
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Hi Neuschu,
Take your router out and put it back together. Make a template to cut 11" by 8 " hole in your table top, use your router with a staright bit with no bearing. You can use a guide bushing or make your template bigger and and use the edge of the base. Go down 1/4" at a pass, exact size of your hole is not important 11" by 8" is an example.
When your hole is cut remodel your template so it is 1/2" bigger on the inside. You willuse this to cut a 1/4" + deep rabbit around the edge of your hole. Now you have ahole to put in a 1/4" router plate, this now holds your router and you drop it in the hole. The plate can be made of plexiglass, mdf, aluminum, etc. I know it is alot of work with one router but this gives you a 1/2".
Now, I know what the book says but you can come up out of the router, the bit I mean another 1/2". I have not had one come out in 25 years. Now you are up an 1"
If you are using cheap bits the expencive kind tend to be longer and bigger.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 02:02 AM
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Did you ever get this resolved? I was wondering if the depth turret might have gotten engaged somehow. I had that happen with my Hitachi and it spooked me pretty good, but I found it as I was unhooking the router to check it out.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2009, 03:46 PM
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I will be looking for a collet extender to use with my Jessem Router Raiser. I have bought loads of stuff from MLCS over the years, and am pleased with the quality and price. No problems sending their stuff to England. I wll look into different brands and reviews of collet extenders before purchasing.
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