Table Saw Blade Sure Isn't Fl;at - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Default Table Saw Blade Sure Isn't Fl;at

Recently I purchased a Wixly Digital gauge. The primary purpose for the gauge was and is to be able to set the blade on my table saw to 90 degrees with the table of the saw. While the gauge works well, it is interesting to note that while I can set the blade so that the gauge reads 90 degrees on one side of the blade, when I move the gauge to the opposite side of the blade there is as much as a full degree of difference in that side. I assume that the reason is that the blade is not flat. The slight error or difference is not a big deal and does not create a problem when alighing the blade with the miter slots with a dial indicator of course. It is just an interesting issue and tells me that setting the table saw blade to an exact 90 degree positon is not technically possible with the digital gauge due to the blade not being flat and therefore there is no honest reference point to use. Even using a machinist square will not work for the same reason. I know that this is real nit picking, but knowing such things and taking them into consideration is part of what precision work is in my opinion.

Where this issue showed up for me was when I was cutting a workpiece that had been laminated together to make a segmented bowl and the workpiece needed to be cut into four pie shaped parts and then glued together so that the final workpiece could be turned on a lathe. The cuts for the pie shaped parts were almost three inches deep and because the blade was not perfectly square with the table, the error showed up when the parts were butted together to be glued up. They were not perfectly square, and that is when I decided to get the digital gauge.


Right now the only way that I can see to get the blade sqaure to make deep cuts by trial and error until the cuts butt up the way I want them to which is not a bad approach, the end result should be perfect, but it will be a excercise in patience I imagine.

So much for my thoughts on that subject.

Jerry
Colorado City, TX
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 06:32 PM
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I seem to have the same thing happening with mt compound sliding miter saw cut 4 pieces at 45degrees and Ya will be slightly off when glue up time so one way to solve is make all cuts on the same side and not move the saw back and forth this seems to help and only slight sanding is needed in the end but hey gotta remember wood is going to move so let it move

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2012, 10:23 PM
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To true up your table saw a dial quage is used to measure from mitre slot to blade then the fence is adjusted to the blade. When measuring to the blade a mark is put on it so the measurement is to the same point on the blade front and rear because blades like you found out aren't perfectly true.

On a miter saw I prefer my 8" to a 10 or 12 because there is less wobble. When making a tight cut on a miter saw I kiss the wood with blade at full speed before actually cutting. Usually I am a hair shy of the mark. I slide the work into the blade and when the kerf hits the mark complete the cut.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 06:50 AM
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I had the same problem and finely it wasn't the blade, the flat side were the blade hold of the shaft was misaligned, so Delta change the shaft, so be sure were your blade sit is really strait.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Bill,
I understand what you are saying about aligning the blade with the miter slots, but I am not talking about that, I am talking about getting the blade square with the table top in regard to the tilt issue from 90 over to 45 degrees. The 90 degree setting is what is causing me to scratch my heard due to the blade not being flat and therefore there is no reference point that is a straight surface to check.

Jerry
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 11:07 AM
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Theoretically, Jerry, if your saw table is dead flat, and you take the blade off and lay it down (flat) on the table, the alternate teeth on the whole circumference should all touch the table(?). 1 degree would definitely show up if you shine a light across the table top under the blade; it might even have a slight wobble.
If it appears absolutely flat, perhaps as Normand suggests, the problem isn't the blade.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 11:08 AM
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Of course you could also try a brand new never used blade as a reference.
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