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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default Lock Mitre Bit

I have a new lock mitre bit I want to try out. Have researched several articles on set up procedures, but thought a video might be of value. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 09:46 AM
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MLCS How to Make a Lock Miter Joint - YouTube

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 04:20 PM
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Greetings John,

Welcome to The Router Forums!

Thanks for joining us here.

Lock miter joints look pretty cool. I haven't taken the plunge and tried them yet, mostly because I'm afraid the softwoods that I use most will tear out to much. I hope you can keep us in the loop and share which bits you are using and how they work out for you!

wbh1963 is flowing with the grain in Arlington, Washington, USA

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 08:33 PM
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Have you checked out You Tube? I find some good guidance there. Once I got mine setup up right, I ran a piece of oak through it, and marked them to ease the next setup.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbh1963 View Post
Greetings John,

Welcome to The Router Forums!

Thanks for joining us here.

Lock miter joints look pretty cool. I haven't taken the plunge and tried them yet, mostly because I'm afraid the softwoods that I use most will tear out to much. I hope you can keep us in the loop and share which bits you are using and how they work out for you!
Started playing with the bit yesterday. Tear out an issue on the poplar I was using, but manageable by machining the joint on a board 1/4"-1/2" wider than you need, then ripping to final width, and cutting off any blow out. You could back up with sacrificial pieces of the same thickness when running through the bit, but that would be more work and likely in the end more wasteful?
After MUCH trial and error, got the 2 sides to match up like they should. Lessons learned: 1st atempt using just a mitre gauge and a feather board to guide was a complete failure. Combination of the large bit and small work pieces necessitates a rock-solid method of holding the boards in a vice-like grip. ANY movement--up/down, in/out--and the joint is compromised. By end of the day, it became obvious that I was going to have to make a specialized jig for my cheap little Sears router fence before I could get acceptable results. Have a pretty good idea what I need to make that work. Will check out the videos you suggest, and report back with any new results.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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So does your oak template work only for stock of the same thickness?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john voyles View Post
Started playing with the bit yesterday. Tear out an issue on the poplar I was using, but manageable by machining the joint on a board 1/4"-1/2" wider than you need, then ripping to final width, and cutting off any blow out. You could back up with sacrificial pieces of the same thickness when running through the bit, but that would be more work and likely in the end more wasteful?
Interesting similarity in the way we maneuver around 'end tear out'.
I have only used a sacrificial backer a few times, just often enough to feel like I know how to do it, if and when it's needed in the future.

I have cut a joinery groove into full length boards (4' to 8') before cutting it down to the lengths that needed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by john voyles View Post
After MUCH trial and error, got the 2 sides to match up like they should. Lessons learned: 1st atempt using just a mitre gauge and a feather board to guide was a complete failure. Combination of the large bit and small work pieces necessitates a rock-solid method of holding the boards in a vice-like grip. ANY movement--up/down, in/out--and the joint is compromised. By end of the day, it became obvious that I was going to have to make a specialized jig for my cheap little Sears router fence before I could get acceptable results. Have a pretty good idea what I need to make that work. Will check out the videos you suggest, and report back with any new results.
Perhaps feathering both sides of the board from the top down so that the edge away from the bit can't rise up would help. Dual feathers pushing it down and a third holding it up against the fence would have a way of keeping tit controlled.

The profile's of this kind of bit don't allow much flexibility for doing it in more than one pass over the bit. Depending on the variables it might be possible to do a little pre-cutting on a Table saw to reduce the amount of waste wood that needs to be ejected during the 'fancy cut'.

I had read in an article somewhere that best results in the context of 'smooth cuts' were obtained with 3+ passes. I don't remember what the stated rationale behind the first 'micro-cut' pass was, but the writer suggested a 'teasing first pass', followed by hogging passes (as many as required) and ultimately a fine cut final pass.

Just thinking out loud here. Time on this board has taught be that just throwing ideas out has a way of inducing others to chime in with their 2 cents worth..

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-22-2012, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john voyles View Post
I have a new lock mitre bit I want to try out. Have researched several articles on set up procedures, but thought a video might be of value. Any suggestions?
I just watched the first video in the series from Eagle Lake Woodworking. His project is building an Arts and Crafts pool table, and the first video he builds the leg posts using hardwood plywood and a lock miter bit. He spends a good part of the first video (ten minutes long) showing how to set up the lock miter bit and make the miter in multiple passes, sneaking up on the final cut. See the video at YouTube here.
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