Jointing with Router - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings from Ormond Beach, Florida. I just now discovered the forum by chance after Google searching for woodworking tip. I have not searched the forum yet, so I apologize in advance if the answer to this question has been posted many times before.

My small basement shop will not accommodate a jointer. I have a planer which is really handy. I own a jointer hand plane but have mixed results with it, having not yet mastered my hand tools.

Looking for advice from anyone relying on their router as primary means to get that flat edge that seems to be the mandatory first step to dimensioning rough cut lumber.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 10:03 PM
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Welcome aboard George!

I feel for ya on the space circumstances, especially living in the big city where real estate is at a premium. So you are right, the router can be a good choice for truing up edges for joinery.

Check it out: http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...er-joiner.html

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 10:28 PM
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I built a taper jig to do some legs for a table i was building. The side benefit is that when it's centered it makes a great straight line jig--clamp a rough-sawn board in, run it through the table saw and i've got a square edge. With a good set-up and very good blade, the rip cut gets me to a glue edge. Router or jointer might improve it, but not enough to make a difference. Your Bosch table saw is capable of that.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 10:44 PM
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Can be done with limitations.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 12:20 AM
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Another approach on the 4100 TS

Tod's Top Tip!

GCG
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 01:12 AM
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Welcome to the forum, George.

You will be able to joint an edge on the router table or saw, but you will still have to joint the face first.

These methods will not work, if there is the slightest twist in the board. [don't ask]....

James
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GulfcoastGuy View Post
Another approach on the 4100 TS

Tod's Top Tip!

GCG
Yep, that's a good one too. Mine is only 39" so i can do 40-42" pretty easily. It's taken a year but i'm finally learning to not think in 8' lengths of 2x4!!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 07:53 AM
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Welcome George. There are any number of ways to get a nice edge however they all involve extra set up work which in itself can be frustrating. I seldom use my jointer however yesterday I used it a lot. I kept making a mistake on an ogee foot and had to keep making a new one. In order to get the new ogee profile to line up exactly I had to take very small amounts off the bottom of the board. Too small for the table saw. To do this I went to the jointer. If I wanted to take the time I could have set up the router but that would have involved resetting it since I had it set for another cut. Bottom line if you need a jointer get one. If space is a problem then get a small table top model and put it away when not in use.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 11:04 AM
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Earl, your Jig is exactly correct and is the way I would do it, I assume that you are running the Jig against a fence, I have posted some cutter photos on "Profile Cutters and their Bearings", One of them shows a straight cutter with a 1/2 JAF bearing on its shaft, this is not a flush trim cutter rig however this type of cutter/bearing would run perfectly along your Jig, due to the bearing running along the jig face then I would laminate the edge so the bearing would have a harder face to rest on, it would be a very small step for you to "shape the edge the bearing would rest on", once you did that then you could run shaped or curved components, this type of jig is the exact theory I use to turn the Router table into a Profile Shaper, the only thing that I would do different is that I would use commercial hold down clamps, not because yours do not work as they will, the commercial ones are just better at holding down and quicker at the part change over, it would depend on how many parts you run at one time, if you run many, then getting some better lock down clamps would be justified, I don't have that many of them and I move them around on different Jigs. NGM

Last edited by neville9999; 12-12-2012 at 11:10 AM. Reason: simple editing
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 12:46 PM
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That's funny Neville--that same suggestion on clamps was made on the BT3Central Forum!! When i built that jig, i followed the plan despite having 2 flip clamps that were not in use but i did want to try to make my own and they are surprisingly effective. I have (after nearly blistering my thumb and finger on the table leg tapers!!) replaced the wing nuts with wing knobs, and will eventually add toggles.

The most important change i'll make, however, is to add a second location for the center pivot bolt. Base is a 1 x 8, fence is 1 x 4 centered on it. Last weekend i was truing some 8 1/2" wide white oak, and the center of gravity would have been much improved with the additional 2" of base width under my stock. This jig was based on a taper jig plan found at woodworkersworkshop.com, modified in a few spots to suit me, with a few more mods to be done.

And, yes, it is run against a fence.
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