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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default putting in dust collector

Hello everyone, new to this forum. ordered me a new jet dc for my shop. been reading about grounding the hose,and or pvc pipes. how important is it,and whats the best way. any info would be helpful, thanks
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 07:51 PM
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Hi Gary; welcome!
From past conversations here, the consensus seems to be that the risk with PVC is greatly overrated. Allegedly there's never been an explosion in a hobby woodshop attributed to static sparks in a PVC system. ....on the other hand maybe there's been lots of small 'incidents' that went unreported.
I need to expand my system and I'm definitely going with PVC.
-ease of assembly
-availability of parts and pipe locally. (I'm in a small community, with one Plbg. wholesaler.)
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 11:49 PM
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Welcome to the forum, Gary.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 01:10 AM
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Hi Gary…….
Light 4" PVC drain pipe is perfect for a dust collection system in a home hobby work shop. Sized Galvanized spiral duct is required and the best choice for commercial shops for several reasons, the primary being metal it is self-grounding and spiral is relatively light and tough and does not collapse from vacuum easily. Static electricity generates a lot of voltage which can arc. Static is caused by, moving air by itself, moving air with lots of particulate in it rubbing along the walls of the pipe, the pipe connects several machines that by their very function ( spinning things – bits and blades, rubbing things - belts and bushings ) generate static . A dust collector for wood working really doesn’t work unless the air velocity is around 3500 ft / min. Metal work is around 4500 ft / min. that’s a lot of air and nice fine dry sawdust rubbing the pipe walls ( like rubbing your feet on carpet ) also fuel.

I guess if your workshop is in a detached garage you only stand to loose the garage but my wife and have grown up and gone families and found a wonderful little house over built in some ways in the mid 1950s and while it had a family room ( with fireplace ) in the basement the ceiling is too low by today's standard so it and the attached wine cellar became mine for a work shop and I was not about to let a static arc start a sawdust fire I wouldn’t have a hope in hell of stopping once started and a nice work bench with drawers at one end of the workshop hides the fireplace.

I attached a few pictures taken a few years ago when I first set it up ( the joint pics with 4 years of cobwebs taken today ) and I’ve been running it now for almost 4 years with no trouble, I've added/ altered here and there but not much

1. because of the low ceiling I used 24” tie raps pushed through cutup pieces of plastic ( they give away to put on gal paint can handles so they won’t cut into your hands ) screwed into the ceiling.

2. I used the wine cellar as a dust collector room with cyclone trap and built a hollow door with 2” pleated filters built in to allow the air being sucked out of the workshop room back in FILTERED and bought a dust collector with a proper pleated filter rather than a bag as you will find very fine dust passes through the bag.

3. I ran bear ground wire through all the piping on the inside and drilled a simple hole for a machine bolt to connect to outside wires at joints, elbows etc. Do not glue the pipe together as there is no need, then you can take it apart to clean it out if need be ( I haven’t had to ) as well it make it easy to make changes.

4. The ground wire is connect either to the machines of the ground on the receptacle the machine is plugged into including the dust collector itself.

5. both my dust collector and edge planer are 220/240 so I had a friend in the HVAC business salvage me a “ definite purpose contactor “ from an old roof top A/C unit being scrapped. That device basically handle/switches a 220/240 heavy load OFF and ON with a 24 v circuit it generates so I hooked up switches all around my shop and painted the face plates yellow. Turn any switch on from any ware in the room and the dust collector comes on ( total cost 6 surface mount receptacles / cheap light switches and plastic switch plates painted yellow 100 ft roll of light lamp wire ). If your dust collector is 110/120 you can purchase dust collector system from the various wood working suppliers.

Hope this is helpful maybe give you an idea or two.
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Last edited by gwizz; 12-27-2012 at 01:17 AM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 07:10 AM
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Richard if only I had the time to make the workshop area as neat as you have done. NGM
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 08:44 AM
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Richard, thanks for the photos. They really helped. BTW, I wondered how you kept your shop so clean until I saw the robotic dust mop in the last photo! Also, some time would you show us how you mounted your belt sander on the pullout drawer? Have a great New Year!
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 09:36 AM
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Default Dust collection

I'm not an expert on this subject but I can tell you what happened to me. I grounded my collection system with a grounding wire inside my ducts. I normally work in wood but when I was building a new deck for my house I needed to use my table saw. I was building the deck using a similar product to Trek. I didn't realize that when cutting that material it doesn't produce a saw dust, it produces pieces of the material that can be several inches long and curly. Everything was going great until I realized that my collection system wasn't sucking up anything. Upon inspecting the system I found that the curly particles had wrapped around the grounding wire and had totally jammed up the system. It took hours to clear and I had to take the impeller off in order to clear that. I have since put the grounding wire on the outside of the ducts.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 10:42 AM
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Unforturnately Buck grounding wires on the outside of plastic pipe do not ground anything but the air in the room as the plastic is an insulator. There are fiberous products that will mess inside a duct as well as elbow / joint obstructions but that is why you don't glue the joints. The Vacuum and your hanging system will keep the pipe together and when you need to take it apart you simply pope it apart.

As for jaming up the impeller that would happen regardless with fiber / plastice waste.

The main reason I used a joint joining system with extirior wire was so I could cut and crimp terminals on to wire stretched straight on the inside of the each piece of pipe. The wire is then roughtly straight with the air flow not looped / kinked or otherwise loose to catch or tangle debris. Having a trminal ( 10/32 machine bolt with lock washers and nut allow the prieces of straight pipe to be installed / moved / taken apart and then put together in any order you wish, simply put a lock washer and nut on the exess bolt sticking out of the outside to join to the other straight on the oposite side of the coupling / elbow / Y connector. There is then very little for anything to get caught on except the round head of a 10/32 bolt and wire that is pulled strait / tight ( not real tight ) in line with the air flow and the use of crimp hole wire connectors eliminates twisted wire ends.

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Last edited by gwizz; 12-27-2012 at 10:53 AM.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 11:09 AM
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I had similar concerns as Richard. My house and shop are in a rural area with no fire protection and the shop is close enough to my house to burn both down. I am concerned enough about fires to the point of paranoia. For that reason I used galvanized duct pipe for the main runs. It's fairly cheap and you can seal the joints with metal tape for a good seal that is still easy to break down. By using metal pipe I was able to put a machine screw in a few spots and then grounded to the grounding bus at my electrical panel.
You only need metal pipe in a few spots to ground out the static charge. I would put one fairly close to the DC to make sure that no charge goes into your collection bag.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 12:44 PM
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What size PVC are you using? Is your DC about a 1 1/2 HP unit?

Jimmy Dee
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