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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Hello everyone!


I've become a woodworking fanatic and I just love it! I got into it about 6 months ago when I realized that my regular job as a software engineer wasn't quelling my creative appetite anymore. The room for contributing something to the field is shrinking rapidly. Here we are 30 years after the introduction of the Macintosh--the machine that revolutionized not only computing but entire industries--and we're still using and maintain crapware with no end in sight. The level of innovation in software is utterly pathetic. Unfortunately, rather than fix it, the industry is moving it away from the desktop and back into the matrix like the days of yore where you had a dumb terminal connected to a mainframe.

Perhaps I can't contribute anything novel in woodworking, but it provides all kinds of opportunities to come up with unique solutions to problems. I have yet to build any "real" project, but I've been tooling up by buying lots of tools. I limited funds (my wife acts as a stop valve on my purchases), so I am very value conscious. More than anything, I love making and improving my tools and I am always thinking of clever ways to use common place items in new ways. I've been lurking on this site for a while now, mainly through Google searches.

I hope I can contribute something to this forum!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 06:47 PM
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Welcome to the forum. Feel free to participate in any capacity you chose Joel.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 06:54 PM
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welcome aboard...enjoy the forums and your new found hobby.

http://www.natures-lifestyles-digest.com/smf

above [link]site has: outdoors type things from fishing, hunting, boating, hiking, to living off grid, gardening from veggies to flowers etc, recipes from home cooking to smokers, hobbies, home remedies, to making your own soaps etc..live members chat area.. and more...all is welcome to browse or join..
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 08:07 PM
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Hi Joel, welcome to Router Forums, glad to see you are eager to learn, I'm positive the members of the community would be more than willing to answer any questions you have

Looking forward to your participation.
Filling out your profile to include (first name,tools and short bio is strictly (optional )but does help members to better relate to each other.
Thank You John
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 08:36 PM
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Welcome to the forum.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 08:50 PM
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Welcome to the forum Joel.

Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia


Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

‘Members are requested to add a first name in their profile as we are a very friendly bunch here'.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 10:21 PM
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Welcome, lot of good info here, been reading & learning from old post.

Making sawdust & scraps all at the same time
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 11:22 AM
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Welcome, great group. The following is a bit long, and members have seen it before, but it is for novices.

Here are a few things I've done to accelerate my learning curve with wood, thought you might find them useful.

1) If you use Firefox browser, get a free add on YouTube download helper app. Search for videos on all aspects of woodworking that interest you and collect them. I watch a video on the topic of whatever project, or phase of a project, on which I'm currently working. VERY helpful to see it done before you try it yourself.

I use a YouTube downloader that’s free using the tools menu/add ons. It puts a download button under the video on YouTube. Click the button, name the file (I always label it according to the tool or job it works on. For example, anything to do with routing, I label as "Router", which clusters all the similar videos together in Windows Explorer. All my videos go into a single folder. I sometimes watch woodworking video while on planes, which occasionally triggers interesting conversations.

2) There are hundreds of used books on woodworking on Amazon. Order some on basic tools and woodworking. You'll need to learn to tune up saws and other tools, and books are how I learned to do these things. It wasn't until I tuned up my saws that good results began to happen. My saws cut exactly 90 and 45, or any angle I need now. Two books I really love are Bill Hylton’s “Woodworking with the Router,” and “The Joint Book” by Terrie Noll. The Noll Book is a really concise and heavily illustrated reference with great hints for making every variety of joints. There are lots of good table saw guides.

3) Make some first projects with MDF before using more expensive wood. Make the same project several times with improved skill and workmanship each time. Great learning method.

4) Consider making cabinets or stands for each of your power tools as first projects. My first cabinet was of MDF and my sander and all my sanding gear still sit on and in it. I can't tell you how much confidence I got from building space efficient shop stands and now, all the tools in my smallish shop are on casters and easily moved around for use and cleanup. BTW, if you add casters, use two non swivels on the back and two locking casters on the front--make sure the lock secures both the wheel and the swivel so your carts don't skip around in use. My shop made stands also take up far less floor space than the ones that came with the tools, which makes it far easier to move tools around in a compact shop--which is necessary to clean out the inevitable sawdust.

5) Many of the woodworking supply stores in the US (and I imagine overseas) have demos on weekends. Attend and get to know the people you meet there. They can turn you on to sources of wood and you can get some nice help and begin a friendship or two. Don’t forget to talk with the employees as well. At our local Rockler, several of the employees are serious and experienced woodworkers and always eager to help. I’ve also found some of the big box stores have very experienced wood workers and carpenters, you just have to start a brief conversation, then ask them about what they did before they worked at the store.

6) Among your first purchases should be some form of dust control. Many woods are proven carcinogens and can quickly damage your lungs. Dust collection information is on this site. I have a 4-inch system installed to collect sawdust, but I also have and recommend a dust mask with a small fan that pulls in pressurized air that not only keeps dust out, but also keeps my glasses from fogging. Got mine at Rockler and keep a couple of sets of rechargable AA batteries ready to use. For cutting just a piece or two, I keep surgical style disposable masks handy. I also built a box with 20x20 filter inside and a fan that pulls air through to remove fine airborne dust over time. Don't take your mask off right after cutting because there is always dust floating around for awhile. If you start coughing, it means you need to pay very close attention to dust control. It can take months to recover from a bout of working with MDF.

7) Take your sweet time with projects, there's no rush and it is easy to have a project nearly complete, then make a careless, quick cut or other error that ruins all your good work.

8) Buy the very best table saw you can manage. A little debt could move you up a notch and help you produce better results. Get the best tools you can afford and read the reviews and ask questions on the forum before you choose. To me, it is worth it to use credit if necessary to get the best you can manage. And there are some new models called hybrid saws that have the mechanical works attached to the cabinet rather than the top, which is good. I recently replaced my old saw with a Laguna Fusion model, a month before Powermatic introduced their own hybrid. My shop is not wired for 220, so I was happy with the 110volt, 1 3/4 hp models. Many forum members have been very happy with less expensive models, Grizzly for example, but I prefer the Laguna.

9) If you can, get an electrician to add a 220 outlet or two to your shop. There are many tools that require 220 volts to work best, and many used 220 tools are available at good prices if you feel comfortable buying used. Another source is to visit estate sales. Every once in awhile, you find tools no one else in the family desires or knows the value of, so you can get them cheap.

If you don't have a router yet, I really like the Bosch 1617, which comes in a kit with fixed and plunge base. It has many accessories available that are very well made. Others like different brands, but Mike recently checked in on the topic and compared PorterCable and I thought the Bosch came out a bit ahead. I prefer the raising and lowering mechanism on the Bosch. The Bosch base can be used as a lift in a table.

10) When it comes to router bits, try to stick to the half inch shafts with carbide cutting tips. These are astonishingly sharp. Bosch and Freud are easily available at HD and Lowes, but there are lots of other excellent brands including the well liked Whiteside bits. I wear gloves when I take them out of their packaging because you can easily have a laceration from those ultra sharp tips. I'd suggest storing them in one of those foam lined cases you can get pretty cheap from Harbor Freight. The tips are actually fairly fragile, so store them loosely packed so they don't click together, and so you don't cut yourself reaching into your small forest of ultra sharp bits. Some of the cheap bits don’t have carbide tips. Spiral bits are sometimes used to cut grooves. Carbide spiral bits are both expensive and fragile and it takes very little abuse to ruin them.

I buy bits as I need them and don't much care for the kits. However, someone recently suggested getting a kit to start out with, then gradually replacing only the bits you actually use with top grade bits. This makes sense to me, but stick to the half inch shafts if you can manage it--most kits have 1/4 inch shafts. A few standard bits most of us have are the round over bits. You can get them in different sizes, but mostly you’re likely to use the quarter, half and ¾ sizes. Another bit that is very useful for cabinetry is the half inch rabbiting bit with a bearing. Some come with a changable bearing that allows you to change the depth of the rabbit. Doing fancier stuff makes those cash register numbers spin because those bit sets cost a lot!

One more thing about using bits, don’t try to take off too much wood in one pass. Make several passes taking more wood with each pass. Pay attention to the grain of the wood (that is covered in most books on routing) with a final pass just shaving and making for a very smooth finish. My personal rule is to cut no more than 1/8 th of an inch per pass. The larger the bit, the slower you should set the speed control. I recently learned about "bumping," which means cutting nearly the full depth by pushing the bit straight into the wood so it has a scalloped edge, then making a full depth pass to smooth out the scallops. This has the advantage of allowing you to set up the depth of cut once, rather than having to keep resetting it for each pass as you cut deeper.

11) The most useful item I own for my saws is a Wixey digital angle gauge, which allows me to set up all my saws to exact angles (eg: 90 degrees to the table). It wasn't until I started being meticulous about this that my projects started working out right. These are about $30 on Amazon.

I have a Bosch 10 inch compound sliding miter saw that I also love, but use it mainly for cross cutting long pieces, but being able to cut at precise angles is also wonderful.

12) Make a table saw sled (lots of YouTube videos on how to) to do perfect 90 degree cuts on your table saw. I have a little more money than time, so I bought the sled Rockler makes that has a swinging fence and a very precise angle scale. I love that thing and set up a special shelf right next to my table saw to store it and keep it flat. Cross cuts on the sled are wonderfully exact and it prevents most tear out, the ragged or splintered area at the end of a cut. The sled is also a much safer way to cut short pieces as well.

13) I had a lot of problems with tear out at first, but most of that stopped when I started using a sacrificial piece to push the last bit of a piece through the router. I often use square pieces of MDF (medium density fiberboard) because it is cheap and stays flat. When it gets torn up, I just cut off a chunk and use what’s left. Really helps! You can do the same with any piece by putting a backer board behind where the cut goes--you cut through the piece first, the backer last.

Zero Clearance Inserts for the table saw: On the table saw, buy or make blank inserts to make zero clearance inserts (see on YouTube for how to do it), this really helps make great, tear-out free cuts. I also found that I wanted to push that last quarter inch through the bit too fast, now I feed at a steady pace all through the cut.

14) Clamps: The joke is you can never have too many clamps. The ones I use most are about $3 each at Harbor Freight, about 8 inch F clamps (they look like an F). I have 18 of them at a couple of bucks each. The same source has longer versions up to 24 inches and I keep 4 to 6 of the 18 and 24 inch models. I have four sets of two of 24 to 60 inch Jet Parallel clamps for making really square cabinets and other items where holding things square for gluing is important. I’ve all but given up on most plastic clamps, but have a few that look like scissors for lightly holding things together or down. Depending on what you’re making, a few wooden hand screw clamps could be useful.

15) Hand planes and hand tools: Learning to use these is something of an art, as is proper sharpening and setting of their blades. There are lots of woodworkers who really love working with hand tools, most will suggest you buy used and clean and tune them up--which is actually quite fun. Chisels are important particularly if you are making furniture. Sharpening chisels is a basic skill involving many ultra fine grits of sandpaper, ultra flat surfaces, maybe diamond grit sharpening stones—arcane stuff, but anything less than a razor sharp chisel is pretty useless. Don’t scrimp on chisels, cheap ones get dull fast. Look up sharpening methods on YouTube, it takes patience but not much money to work sharp. I recently bought a diamond sharpening device with diamond dust imbedded in a nickel steel plate. It has small cut out ovals so the metal grit doesn't clog the diamond surface. Use these sparingly and use one of the specialty diamond sharpening lubricants with it. I use this quick sharpening touch ups, just a few strokes will do. Much easier to use than the sand paper method, which I save for major sharpening tasks.

16) If you have a dedicated shop space, take the time and trouble to insulate it. You will enjoy working in it much more if you're not roasting or freezing.

This has run pretty long, but I think the information is helpful for someone new to the hobby. And yes, you can spend a lot getting set up, but your wife will like you being around home, but not under foot.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the suggestions and help!

I tried to route the profile freehand using my small 1 hp router trim router and I didn't get a kickback, but I may have just been lucky. I tried this because I've never heard of anyone experiencing this phenomenon freehand and even if it is very uncommon, we'd all hear about it. Supposedly, it has something to do with the physics of bringing the tool to the piece instead of vise-versa.

The problem appears to be specific to flush trim bits. I have been able to successfully perform the same operation using 1/2 roundover bits with no problem other than some burning even though it was taking off a lot more material using multiple passes.

At this point, I am trying to understand the cause of the phenomenon scientifically or at least pseudo-scientifically. Here are some theories in no particular order:
  1. Diameter of the bit. A larger diameter may have an attack angle that is different. I've heard this problem happening with 1/8" bits.
  2. Mass of the work piece. A small piece may not have enough mass to counter the force coming from the router bit. This seems to be a common response, but it happens even when using a sizable vice screw.
  3. Material of the work piece. The hardness of the material may cause the flutes to push it instead of cut it. In my case, end grain is a lot harder. I've experienced the same issue with soft pine, however, the router bit was running at 10K RPM. This might be similar to the kickback when you start a cut with a circular saw without running it at full speed. It will kick upwards at you.
  4. Router speed. The wider the spacing between the flutes, the faster you need to run the router bit for the same reason as #3. This is why cutting steel requires more teeth than cutting wood.
  5. Template thickness. My template size was only 1/4" thick. It may have been too thin to fully ride the hearing. The bearing was making contact with the template, however, and there was no sign of undercutting.
  6. All of the above. It may be a combination of all the factors. I am unsatisfied with this cowardly, yet safe theory.

Anyway, it appears perfectly possible to route small pieces without kickbacks. If it weren't so, there would be a lot less fingers and confidence in this video:


Oops. Can't post URLs yet because I am not a spammer. Search YouTube for "Wood Toy Plans - Creating Router Templates to Make Multiple Wood Toy Cars". Start the video at 13:02.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 02:43 PM
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well Joel... welcome to you new home...
here is some reading that may be of use to you...
enjoy...

.
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File Type: pdf R5 Climb-Cutting Versus Chip-Cutting.pdf (176.1 KB, 16 views)
File Type: pdf R5 CLIMB CUTTING.pdf (74.4 KB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf R4 SPLINES 1.pdf (100.1 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf R1 ROUTER FEED DIRECTION 5.pdf (54.6 KB, 21 views)
File Type: pdf R1 ROUTER FEED DIRECTION 2.pdf (90.0 KB, 25 views)
File Type: pdf R ROUTER SAFETY 2.pdf (34.4 KB, 22 views)
File Type: pdf R ROUTER SAFETY 1.pdf (73.3 KB, 21 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for beginners - Lesson - 5.pdf (4.36 MB, 17 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 4.pdf (1.14 MB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 3.pdf (856.1 KB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 2.pdf (1.36 MB, 18 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 1.pdf (1.50 MB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf RouterBitBasics_en.pdf (1.78 MB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf ROUTER FEED DIRECTION 5.pdf (54.6 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf R5 TEAR OUT - How to avoid....pdf (341.1 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf R5 ROUTER SPEEDS-BURNING.pdf (212.1 KB, 21 views)
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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