trying to replace bulb on old sears router - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Daikusan View Post
I have the same router, I took the burnt out bulb, remove the glass and soldered in an LED lamp. Works fine but as others noted the old bulb would twist lock fairly hard.
Hi, Steve; is the original socket voltage 12V? I really like your solution!
1004 LED Bulb | eBay
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 01:28 PM
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Dan, not sure if the voltage comes out to exactly 12v or not... there is a 2nd(sympathetic?) winding in the motor that generates the voltage for this bulb.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 04:05 PM
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So the voltage fluctuates if the motor bogs down? Is that hard on LEDs?
I guess the other factor might be the physical size of the lamp. I guess if I bought a couple I could just use them in the van, if they didn't work out in the router.
(Mind you, after 30+ years, the router doesn't owe me anything...)
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 06:00 PM
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So the voltage fluctuates if the motor bogs down? Is that hard on LEDs?
Maybe that's why the bulbs didn't last in mine. The bulbs are 12 volt. Many years ago, when I hadn't built any common sense yet, I tried powering a 12 volt bulb with 120 and it exploded.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 02:04 AM
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Maybe that's why the bulbs didn't last in mine. The bulbs are 12 volt. Many years ago, when I hadn't built any common sense yet, I tried powering a 12 volt bulb with 120 and it exploded.
Aah, you mean a 'flashbulb'! The youngsters here don't even know what those were...
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Leon, I finally got one to work after breaking two bulbs trying. I filed an angle on the lead contacts at the bottom of the bulb. Apparently the Chinese replacement bulbs have thicker contacts than the original GE, made in USA bulbs. Making them harder to turn and lock in place.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Hi, Steve; is the original socket voltage 12V? I really like your solution!
1004 LED Bulb | eBay
No it's not 12V but rather the outlet voltage. And yes Daninvan is right the voltage will fluctuate which won't hurt the LED. If the voltage is below it's turn-on threshold it will stay off. 115/120V LED's are usually OK with a higher voltage. Just remember there is a rectifier built in to change the voltage to DC when you take off the threaded case and solder on the original case with the ears. Some are bipolar and in that case there is no rectifier, just the leads in the case.
Hope that helps.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by gordon68 View Post
Thanks for the reply Leon, I finally got one to work after breaking two bulbs trying. I filed an angle on the lead contacts at the bottom of the bulb. Apparently the Chinese replacement bulbs have thicker contacts than the original GE, made in USA bulbs. Making them harder to turn and lock in place.
That's true, I have ran into that problem with car bulbs.

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-30-2017, 01:12 AM
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found this thread on a google search; what I did to make the newer 1004 bulb fit is to sand down the end of the plastic bulb housing. Hope this helps anyone else searching for why they can't get a bulb to fit on this model.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-30-2017, 03:34 AM
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Rollie; why didn't I think of that? Makes sense.
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