|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-05-2009 03:13 PM|
Frugal is good, it used to be called Yankee thrift. |
You might get 10 different ways to go about solving a problem here.
Know that each solution is relative to the members wood working prowess, his tools and the available materials.
Knowing where to skulk for the material is an art form equal to in import as wood working ability
|04-05-2009 02:16 PM|
"thank you all for your response, that's what i was afraid of, yes i was trying to save money on a pretty tight budget so i mounted directly to the bottom of a 3/4inch piece of ply but today i realized it isnt even flat its bowed in the middle already so as of right now im at a complete loss, ill have to just stick to hand held routing until i can afford to buy a cheap table just to get me going." |
I understand money being tight. I will tell you I bought 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF cut off from a cabinet shop going out of business for $5. And bought enough formica from a different shop to laminate both sides for $10. I splurged and bought the $29.99 plate from Ptreeusa (I liked the fact it had cam tighteners and levelers). a piece of mini-T-track to mount the fence (which I'll make from wood I already have.) $55 for a nearly ready to use router table top. I don't think you can BUY one that cheap! I'm tight as a tick when it comes to money...you can do it even cheaper if you don't laminate the MDF!!
|04-05-2009 12:21 PM|
Originally Posted by newwoodworker View Post
|04-05-2009 12:02 PM|
|levon||hi Mike, im with you, go by the router manufacturers recommendations! lines on a router bit dont tell me anything. im going to listen to the routers recommendations. id like to see where they say you can pull the bit way out further than that!|
|04-05-2009 11:41 AM|
The last bit I bought from Price Cutter before it merged with Eagle, (Oct/08) reversible glue joint P16-4032, (which doesn't exist anymore) replaced with 190-2715 has a collet set mark on it. Not absolutely sure for my CMT chamfer bit, the shank is a bit scratched but I think it also has a collet mark. |
An odd thing about the RGJ bit, it's sort of up-side-down to all the RGJ bits offered that I can find.
|04-05-2009 10:32 AM|
|Mike||Nick, please post the instructions that say other than to fully insert the bit and pull it back 1/8". This is for my reference since I have yet to see one that said other wise.|
|04-05-2009 07:30 AM|
The reason they say all the way in than out an 1/8 is so the bottom does not touch. It is the min. It is not meaning that the bit can not be used pulled farther out. They just do not want people pushing the bit all the way in and bottoming out. That is what that statement is for. No where do they say that the bit needs to be pushed in so far, they are telling us NOT to push the bit all the way in, thats all. |
The Katana marking are correct and any bit can be pulled out as far as those markings, but no bit should be pressed all they way in. That is what they are referring to when they say push the bit in and pull out an 1/8, it is strictly the furthest you can push in the bit, NOT the most the bit can be pulled out.
If I had to put every bit in that far I could never get 1/2 my work done without an extender. Its just not what the manufacturer means when they tell us about bit placement. It is more important to them for us NOT to put the bit all the way in than pull it out a little.
Most manufactures also state do not pull the bit out more than a little less than 1/2 way to go along with the statement of putting the bit in and pulling it out an 1/8". You need to take both statements together to determine safe bit placement in the router. I am sure many here use the bits regularly pulling them out more than an 1/8", I do everyday.
|04-05-2009 07:27 AM|
Hi Paul, |
Have you checked at sears? They have a table that would get you by until either you made another or buy one. Here's one that isn't bad price wise.
Craftsman Fixed-Base Router/Table Combo - 28180 at Sears.com
|04-04-2009 11:36 PM|
thank you all for your response, that's what i was afraid of, yes i was trying to save money on a pretty tight budget so i mounted directly to the bottom of a 3/4inch piece of ply but today i realized it isnt even flat its bowed in the middle already so as of right now im at a complete loss, ill have to just stick to hand held routing until i can afford to buy a cheap table just to get me going. |
Im not much over a week into woodworking so i cant seem to talk the wife into somehow squeezing anymore money into this new venture of mine, she calls it a hobby but as much fun and enjoyment ive had in the almost two weeks now i wouldn't call it a hobby i would call it a life style because that drive to make more saw dust just keeps calling my name
I just need to stop trying to run before i can even crawl time to step back and take it slow build up my things as i go along, i mean i dropped 30 bucks on the 8x4 sheet of plywood when if i had just waited and added another 40 i could have picked up the bottom of the line router table from lowes which would have been a thousand times better than the top i was trying to work with right now and stop trying to cut corners to save 20-30 bucks when in the long run all that its doing is making things harder and end up costing me more money or health in the long run.
Thankfully i have a place to come and ask questions before i do something in haste and learn the correct way to do things ahead of time, Thank you all for giving me and others in my situation a place to help overcome this learning curve.
|04-04-2009 11:16 PM|
|Mike||Almost all router manufacturers specify to insert the bit fully and pull it back about 1/8". The exception to this is Tritan who say to insert it fully. You can thin down the material where your router is mounted as suggested or make life really easy and mount the router to a $20 mounting plate from Harbor Freight, the least expensive solution with the best results. This will allow you to use PC style guide bushings too.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|