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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-10-2009 11:26 PM
rolanddds Thank you all for the tips. It looks like they are lots of ways to skin the cat as they say. I'm good to go.

Tom
06-10-2009 07:06 PM
xplorx4 Hay Tom I was going to add to this but I think you have received about all the responses some one would need. When you get your table done post it for all to see, I plan to redo mine and I might pick up on a good idea.
06-10-2009 05:31 PM
bobj3 HI Guys

Don't make a VERY easy job a hard one.. let the router do all the work for you. if you want/need a bigger lip (edge) for the base plate to sit on just use a bigger guide and the 1/4" plunge bit..I do recommend a scrap block in the center ( 1/2" x 7" x 9" the norm )to help hold the router when you cut the hole out,don't forget to put smaller bearing on the rabbit bit if you use a bigger brass guide.

Popular Woodworking - VIDEO - No-nonsense Router Table: Inset a Router Base Plate

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06-10-2009 04:44 PM
Noob Another options is to make the cutout all the way through without making a "ledge" on it. Next you add some wood strips for the base plate to lay on. That's what Xplorx4 did on his: Xplorx4 plate cutout LINK

That's also basically what was done in an article I read (see attachments).
06-10-2009 03:20 PM
westend
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustmaker View Post
Mike, my plate has 3/4" radius corners. If I use 4 pieces of scrap as the guide as you suggest, and my pattern bit is 1/2" diameter, won't I end up with 1/4" radius corners? My plan was to carefully cut the corners into a piece of scrap on the drill press with a 1 1/2" diameter forstner or hole saw, then use a straight edge and pattern bit to cut the sides. This would form the template which I can validate before putting metal to my nice table top. If there is an easier way to get the 3/4" radius corners I sure would appreciate the tip!
You have the dimensions on the cutout correct, if you use a 1/2" pattern bit you will not get a 3/4" radius. I used a Rockler aluminum palte with 3/4" radius and a 1/2" pattern bit. There is a small bit of gap on the corners. The real question is: how does that effect the use of the top? Not one bit. In fact it makes it easier to remove the insert to pull the plate and the router out while attached. The other question could be: Does dust get into that small corner gap? Answer: Yes it does and if I pull the insert plate it is necesary to bend over and blow the dust out of the rabbet. If I had it to do again, I'd aim for a more correct radius but it really doesn't effect the functionality of the top.

One thing I did that allows the router plate to lay flat was the installation of 6 threaded inserts into the rabbet. Into the threaded inserts I placed 6 socket head allen screws. The insert sits on the tops of the screws and allows for minute leveling. Dust accumulates between the plate and the rabbet in this area, also. Again, a little lung power cures all .

To Roland, asking about the construction process regarding laminate: yes, laminate the top, first, as Bob suggested. You'll have no problem with the laminate using a sharp pattern bit.

I used scrap wood pieces to setup the template for the cutout. I cut the rabbet and then cut out the remainder with a jig saw. The hardest part of the operation was removing the template with the double-stick tape.
06-10-2009 09:52 AM
Vestus Here's a good clip on making the cutouts -
popularwoodworking.com/article/router_base_plate_video/

They use guide bushings and rabbeting bits to get the radius.
06-10-2009 08:52 AM
dustmaker
Quote:
Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
You don't need to make a template. 4 pieces of scrap double-taped to the table along the edges of the insert will make the template.
Mike, my plate has 3/4" radius corners. If I use 4 pieces of scrap as the guide as you suggest, and my pattern bit is 1/2" diameter, won't I end up with 1/4" radius corners? My plan was to carefully cut the corners into a piece of scrap on the drill press with a 1 1/2" diameter forstner or hole saw, then use a straight edge and pattern bit to cut the sides. This would form the template which I can validate before putting metal to my nice table top. If there is an easier way to get the 3/4" radius corners I sure would appreciate the tip!
06-09-2009 07:06 PM
levon thats a good example BobJ, i was just thinking of how many cutouts ive seen in trashpiles and beside the road. it goes to show that cutting them out with laminate on them presents no problems at all.
06-09-2009 06:57 PM
bobj3 HI Tom

Think of how many sinks are installed in homes every day,the counter is almost always " laminate " in place 1st. that will give you a hint..


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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolanddds View Post
Hey everyone, thanks for all your comments. I guess I need to put the time in to learn SketchUp. I keep putting it off, but it keeps coming back. Anybody have any comments on putting the laminate on before or after the cutout?


06-09-2009 06:32 PM
rolanddds Hey everyone, thanks for all your comments. I guess I need to put the time in to learn SketchUp. I keep putting it off, but it keeps coming back. Anybody have any comments on putting the laminate on before or after the cutout?
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