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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-11-2015 09:13 PM
JFPNCM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
skills running rampant...
nice job...
Thanks, Stick. It was a fun one once the collective "we" figured out how to cut the angles.
05-11-2015 07:47 PM
Stick486 skills running rampant...
nice job...
05-11-2015 07:37 PM
JFPNCM
I finally finished it

With a "little help from my friends" as the old song goes, I have finally completed the equilateral triangle box that started this thread. Thank you one and all for the assistance!

The box sides were once again drawn from the cut off bin and assembled as in previous posts. Fortunately, the bin is now down to the nubs so it will be awhile before I can bore you with this mishmash again.

The finish is standard Butcher block oil. The last photo shows the bottom of the box as SWMBO didn't want a lid on this one. The bottom is Philippine Mahogany and Maple.
04-27-2015 03:23 PM
neville9999 A 'true miter' is like a picture frame, you cut your cuts at 45degs and when you join them up then you get a right angle corner, join 4 pieces that way and you get a frame, the pieces can be cut all four the same length and you get a square frame, if you want a rectangular frame then use four pieces where two are shorter than the other two but each pair is the same length. Not all miters are 'true miters' and not all frames need four pieces. you can make a frame like a rhombus, and it can also be square or a rectangular rhombus, the thing is with these odd shapes then the miters cannot be cut at 45degs, you have to set out the joins and then bisect the cut, this works with any odd angle, with these cuts then they are not 45 degs but they are the exact angle of the bisected join, a Triangle is also a frame, one made up from three sides, were it an isosceles triangle then you have two sides the same and one shorter one, these joins are not 60degs, imagine one where it stand very tall and is very short on the short side, or it could be a squat isosceles triangle where the one side is the long one, all these joins can be done with a mitered join but the angle of the cut is not half of 60degs, the joins are odd angles so you must bisect the angle to get the joins cut angle, your box is an equilateral triangle, just like the one drawn by Stick, all three sides are the same length so the joins are cut at half of 60degs, they meet at a point on the outside so you do not see any end grain. Making these joins is not easy as you need a very clean cut, you can do that with a saw sled and use a blade with many teeth, I have a saw blade with 120 teeth and I use that for these very fine cuts, a picture frame maker would also do this or they will have a miter guillotine, one where they can set the angle the way they want and as the cut is done guillotine style and then the cut is very clean, so the join is very clean, I also have a shooting board and you can see it on my post 'My Favorite tool' so you use a shooting plane like a guillotine, you can make one and use a normal plane with a razor sharp blade but the clean up cuts are done guillotine style and these clean edges join very closely, far better than they will join straight off a saw blade, even a blade with 120 teeth will have some roughness where the end grain meets. Sticks drawing is an equilateral triangle and all three sides are the same length, all internal angles are the same, they are 60degs and this is also like a flag box, it is also like my project, the thing is that the corners are joined with miters that are cut at 30degs to join at 60degs, done this way then there is no end grain, the quality of the join will be as good as you can do the joins cuts, better if it is shot with a plane, Cabinetmaking is fun, the better you are then the better work you can do. N
04-26-2015 10:57 PM
JFPNCM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
it just occurred to me...
since accuracy matters... look to a tenon jig for these cuts...
there a bazillion plans out there for them if you wish to make your own...
Excellent idea Stick.

I used an old push block set up I originally built for the router table but the tenon jig would be a definite improvement.

Thanks again.
04-26-2015 06:41 PM
Stick486 it just occurred to me...
since accuracy matters... look to a tenon jig for these cuts...
there a bazillion plans out there for them if you wish to make your own...
04-26-2015 05:56 PM
vchiarelli
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
...
Stick;

There's quite a few times when my train of thought can't even find the station.
04-26-2015 03:24 PM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post

Two brains are better than one - sometimes mine outraces me.

Vince
...
04-26-2015 03:12 PM
DonkeyHody
Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
Andy:
Correct - I had my offsets confused in relation to the blade/table face. I stand corrected.
The workpiece held vertical is the way to go as demonstrated by the attachment further along in this thread.

Two brains are better than one - sometimes mine outraces me.

Vince
You're certainly not the first or the last to make that mistake. I was thinking the same thing until I started drawing it up. Then I realized what was happening. That whole "zero is really 90 degrees" thing messes me up too often.
04-26-2015 03:06 PM
vchiarelli Andy:
Correct - I had my offsets confused in relation to the blade/table face. I stand corrected.
The workpiece held vertical is the way to go as demonstrated by the attachment further along in this thread.

Two brains are better than one - sometimes mine outraces me.

Vince
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