|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-10-2016 12:11 PM|
|Mike||With this type of jig you will have better results if you place a piece of wood the same thickness as your work piece on the opposite end of the jig. This makes even clamping easier. Many times people fail because the clamping pressure on the work piece is not even and it slips.|
|01-10-2016 11:46 AM|
|bigarm||Thanks for all the suggestions. Hopefully I will work on this project this week, if I don't work much. I was going to work on it this weekend, but got side tracked making a cart for my Bosch bench top router table. Got tired of picking it up off the floor and lifting it onto a table to use.|
|01-10-2016 01:40 AM|
the only down side to chalk is using it on open grained woods... |
traces of your markings may remain...
|01-09-2016 06:00 PM|
I learned this years ago in my cabinet-making courses. White chalk for rough layout and marking; easy to see and comes off easily as well. If I'm breaking down a larger, rough sawn plank into rough-size pieces for my parts, I will mark out the smaller parts making best use of the material at hand, and avoiding knots, etc. I use the "triangle" method to layout pieces for joining whether it's for the orientation of legs or panel glue-ups.
|01-09-2016 04:14 PM|
I noticed the other day that one of the TV woodworkers (from Boston), uses chalk to label pieces. Wipes off easily, easy to see. Not for marking cuts, of course, but at least for direction., up, bottom, top, left, right, inside, outside or even numbering corners for a box (1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-1). I keep white colored pencils around so I can use white on dark pieces, regular pencil on light wood. |
@Moz This is going to be an important part of making bee hives. It will be very easy to mix parts up for any kind of dovetail or box jointed boxes, in your case, you will also be making the interior frames for honeycombs.
|01-09-2016 03:24 PM|
|Speyerer||The best advice is to practice and don't rush your project. Best of luck tp you and please let us know your progress|
|01-08-2016 10:56 PM|
I realize that this will be considered heresy, but make a "shop copy" of the owners manual. Read it thoroughly, make marginal notes if necessary, and highlight the important sections. |
Keep the original manual in a folder with other tool manuals and parts diagrams. Place the marked up copy with the jig.
Once you made a few test pieces and found one that fits, keep it, and mark down what bit was utilized. Also mark the router base so as to keep the same edge to the rear of the jig. Some router bases are not perfectly round, there could be some run-out in the collet, etc. Small errors on dovetail jigs, like box joint jigs, easily become large errors and usually are unnoticed until you do a test fit.
|01-08-2016 08:14 PM|
|TwoSkies57||ALL excellent points well made. Should be adhered to!!|
|01-08-2016 08:08 PM|
Tom, making notes and marking up is a really valuable habit to get into. |
I use that low tack green masking tape, have a complete cut list ahead of time, and label every piece of the project.
As sure as Hell, if I don't I'll grab the wrong piece, use a good piece for something else, or just misplace it/machine the wrong side or edge.
I'd make an exception if there's a bazillion pieces all identical, but those need to be kept separate and bundled if possible.
I use this stuff...
|01-08-2016 07:45 PM|
|DesertRatTom||Read the instructions carefully. As I recall, there is an odd offset requirement on this jig. I watched a demo once and the pretty experienced demonstrator at Rockler screwed it up. I bought a Sommerfeld router top jig and my Rockler jig is just sitting there, unopened. Guess it spooked me. There are videos on the Rockler and other brands of dovetail jigs. I'd watch themmany times and make notes. I do recall that you need to mark up the work pieces carefully because its easy to mix them up and miss cut them.|
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