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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-05-2019 05:50 PM
Jeremy in Oz
Jeremy

I need to fabricate a base plate for my DW621-ex to take a Whiteside 30mm inlay kit bush deigned for a Porter Cable machine. I am amazed that DeWalt does not have full engineering drawings for fabricating a one-off appropriate base plate. Frustrating.
02-21-2018 06:20 PM
Job and Knock For the benefit of anyone who did arrive here looking for that link it is:

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/US/trend/...loads&id=32375

then follow the link "TBC Trend Base Configuration Diagram
Ref: DIAG/TBC v1.0" in the right hand navigation bar and that will automatically download a PDF file onto your system which you can then save.
02-16-2017 05:28 PM
DaveH1 Thanks Herb

I was just trying to be helpful, I came across this post when I was trying to find the same info , so felt obliged to share the info when I actually found it . It actually took a phonecall to Trend to find the info , in the first place, only then did I manage to find the link which I was trying to share .

Best Regards

Dave
02-16-2017 04:32 PM
Herb Stoops Dave Welcome to the forum, this thread nearly a year old ,I hope that mrmicron solved his problem. But it is good information you posted ,and someone else might be able to use it.
after you have 10 posts you can post links and pictures, a few welcome and comments will get you to 10 post fairly fast.
Herb
02-16-2017 02:39 PM
DaveH1 Hi MrMicron

I came across your thread when I was looking for the hole locations for a Dewalt 625 / Trend T11

The following link is to a PDF of the dimensions of the base for the T11

[ unfortunately the forum won't let me post the link as a new user ]

But search for "TREND BASE CONFIGURATION" and it should take you to the PDF


central mounting hole is 75mm above center
other two holes are 15mm below centerline and 57.5mm left and right of center



Hope this is of use

Regards

Dave
06-14-2016 12:45 PM
Cherryville Chuck I have a jointer and a planer so I don't need to do those operations but some do and they shim the fence. Some just stick a strip of masking tape to a stationary fence also. I've read that plastic playing cards make excellent shims as the thickness from card to card is near perfect. They are long enough and wide enough so that you wouldn't need the screws and I would think that shims would be more accurate than turning screws. Lots of other things would tend to be very uniform as well such as sheet plastics, mdf, and high density pressed boards.
06-14-2016 04:10 AM
mrmicron
DW625eK base plate

Thank you for the link Charles. When you use your fence for planning/sizing ops do you shim up on one side to allow for the depth of the removed material? The movable fence I am contemplating has three M6x1 mounting points. The M6 bolts are free rotating in the moving fence and tapped through my existing alloy fence. The idea is to be able to set the depth of the fence by turning the three knobs on the back of the fixed fence with one full turn being equal to 1mm. the reason for three knobs being to be able to adjust perpendicularity to the table and parallelity to the adjacent movable fence.
06-12-2016 11:53 AM
Cherryville Chuck John this a link to a thread where I showed pictures of my latest home made fence. Cost $5-10 and took about 3-4 hrs to make. Complete with sliding fences and dust control that is 95% effective on edge cuts. http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...ble-fence.html Pictures are in post #3.
06-12-2016 01:59 AM
mrmicron
DW625eK base plate

Charles, The reason I do it is simply because my router table fence is a simple alloy angle section. I do not have the luxury of a split fence that I can offset by an amount equal to the depth of cut when using the router for sizing purposes. It's one of those jobs that I have never managed to find time to do yet and the next time you need the router you just make do with what you have. But I am trying to negate these problems with my new table-if I can find the time to make that too. That's what I need - a machine for making round tuits!
06-08-2016 02:06 AM
Cherryville Chuck John you are taking some steps to mitigate the risks of trapping the wood between the bit and fence but I have to ask why do need to do that? I don't find it necessary and I've been using a router for over 3 decades. As for the +/- 10 microns, that's the overkill we are talking about. The wood can move more than that in a day and that kind of accuracy in wood is not necessary.
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