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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-20-2017 10:22 PM
MT Stringer Sounds good. Good luck.
02-20-2017 09:52 PM
rbecklund Nope, I haven't left, I have just been busy in the shop. Too bad I have to work tomarow because I have tons of ideas now. I got my outfeed/assembly table built and my table saw all tuned up. Next is a face frame jig and to start my cabinet build! I might change up my dust collection yet also. It has too long of runs for great suction. I appreciate all the ideas, keep them coming!
02-20-2017 03:09 PM
MT Stringer I guess the OP has moved on. No recent posts from him.
02-20-2017 01:28 PM
DesertRatTom I really like the simplicity of using a sheet of ply for assembly since it would be easy to clamp the rails and stiles to it. But I'd want to have it well waxed or covered with laminate to keep any glue from sticking, not only for face frames, but for any assembly I wanted to glue down. I keep 18 inch wide rolls of plastic coated butcher paper around for assembly with glue. Much better than wax paper, and very easy cleanup.
02-19-2017 10:08 AM
tomp913 Agree with @DesertRat Tom that the most important part of the face frame build is that the ends of the parts are cut at exactly 90 - without that you won't get a tight assembly, even if you clamp it in a fixture as the joint will be slightly open on the one side. I use a driver with a clutch to drive the screws and have it set to give a snug screw and then finish off (if needed) with a screwdriver -if the end wasn't square, you would get some movement of the part as the screw pulled the open side closed. Like Marc, I layout the joint at each end and a good check for square is if the rail lines up with the pencil lines at the second rail - you can see the pencil lines on the stiles at each end of the center rail in the second photo, any mismatch would indicate that the rail end wasn't square.

I bought one of the original Kreg jigs (the non-adjustable aluminum one) from a demonstration at the Woodworking Show many years ago, and have put a lot of miles on that jig - although I did upgrade to the K4 to give me the option to use different thicknesses of woods. The demo at the Show included assembly of the face frame, and the method they showed was exactly like Marc Sommerfeld shows in this video
with the joint hanging off the edge of the workbench so that it can be clamped and the screws installed. In the first photo, I used two clamps on the joint with the wide rail to get good alignment across the joint face - note how small the original clamp (at left) is compared to one of the newer ones.

My buddy (ex-partner) just finished making some cabinets for his shop and built a jig that used toggle bolts on the legs of the squaring arms to hold the frame parts in place and then the (Kreg) clamp at the joint to drive the screws. It seemed a little cumbersome to me, but I guess it's what you get used to - and the jig could be a problem if the frame openings get small - i.e. one with drawer openings.

Bottom line - everyone has their favorite way to do things, and they all work, it's just a function of what you're comfortable with.
02-19-2017 12:38 AM
DesertRatTom My experience with face frames using Kreg pocket screws has been that what counts is setting up your saws to cut precise 90s. I assemble on my outfeed table and if I need a brace to hold parts together, I clamp squares in place. However, If I were going to put a jig together, I'd cut a corner off a piece of good ply and/MDF and maybe add a clamp or two to that for hold down purposes. I might cut an opening in the table and the jig so I could clamp the jig down firmly. It is really hard to attach pieces to a jig at a perfect 90 degree angle, so why not use the factory edge and corner instead? This would be a good method for using biscuits to assemble the frame. Biscuits are loose fitting until the glue sets, so you must clamp them tightly and a frame jig makes sense for that in particular.
02-18-2017 07:47 PM
MT Stringer I have built a lot of face frames...75 or more. Sometimes the boards just don't want to sit when the screw is inserted!

I know I wouldn't!

Even when clamped with a single clamp they may move. So I clamp them securely. Just my way of doing things. My jig didn't cost me anything to build because I had all the material and hardware.
02-18-2017 06:50 PM
whimsofchaz Semipro is right..I think the pocket hole assembly is the easiest you just need to make straight cuts.
02-18-2017 12:34 PM
CharleyL I like Mikes jig too, but have used the Kreg Klamp Table and it works quite well, so it's a good possibility if you don't want to make it yourself, but they do look and work differently
I have used a friend's Kreg Table. I haven't build Mike's design yet, but I do like it. Maybe someday soon I'll be making his design.

Charley
02-18-2017 11:14 AM
chessnut2 [QUOTE=MT Stringer;1469186]+1
Here is my face frame assembly jig.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...embly-jig.html

/QUOTE]

Mike........I looked at your linked face frame jig, and you've done it again. You've designed a great jig, and your sketchup talents make it so easy to understand. Another of your ideas I have saved in the jigs folder on my computer. Thanks!
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