|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-10-2008 12:47 AM|
Thanks very much Ed, |
Sharing our experiences and learning from them is what this forum is all about!
I have largely recovered used of my left forefinger, but the whole episode may have simply accelerated the inevitable. My shoulders were wearing out because I work in an environment that is almost wheelchair-hostile, with supervisors who keep things just this side of justification of discrimination lawsuits.
In the meantime I look at what I can do and try to figure out ways to do more easily those things that are difficult for me.
|05-10-2008 12:34 AM|
Hi Mftha, |
Not off topic at all....first and foremost is safety and that's exactly what push sticks are about. Thank you very much for sharing you story as it may help some realize the importance of a few moments of making this tool for safety.
I'm really sorry to hear you had to and are suffering from your accident. I hope down the road you have as full a recovery as possible.
Again, thank you for sharing, it just might be someone else will not suffer the same fate because of your courage to come forward with your story.
|05-10-2008 12:18 AM|
|TWheels||While this post may be a bit off point, Please indulge me as I strongly reinforce the necessity for using safety devices while routering. I was not very active on this forum for several months because I did not use a push stick when I should have. I also made another unthinking mistake that had I been using a push stick would have had been much less consequential. I was attempting to make a template with a groove wider than any of the straight bits in my collection. I made the first cut, then turned it around and started the second cut. As it was I realized the second cut was a climb cut. The piece shot away and my left forefinger made contact with the spinning router bit. It cut away the top layer of skin and bled profusely. Had I been using a push stick it might have been destroyed but my finger would have not been injured. After over a month of daily rinsing with hydrogen peroxide and bandaging with neomycin and bandaging so as to immobilize the end joint, my finger returned to almost normal, but now it is stiffer and I have less range of mobility in the end joint. The joint itself was not damaged, thanfully. The finger injury may have led to overuse of my right arm (I am confined to a wheelchair) to compensate for my left arm, and now in spite of some very effective physical therapy, I may need one or even two shoulder replacements; I now compensate for the right shoulder by over-using the left arm. (Actually there was already some deterioration of my right shoulder at the time, but my few seconds of not thinking has long lasting consequences.)|
|05-09-2008 08:33 PM|
Hi Ken |
That sounds like it would work great
I'm a cheap SOB and I don't have any OP push handles but along time ago I got a B & D push stick and have used it for may handles for jigs ,,,
I didn't care for the B & D push stick because it is/was so thin but I do use it from time to time to rip thin stock on the table saw but I now have a new jig to do that and it's alot easyer and a bit more safe than traping the stock ,I can now rip 1/8" and 1/4" banding that comes out right on the button
But back to the Push handle I used the B & D for a template pattern and some MDF stock to give it more mass and to fit my hand, they come out to 1 1/4" wide, that helps with my big hands and just the right size for me...I have one or two with the dovetail key on them but I do like to glue and screw them in place...
Here's a snapshot or two of the B & D one I use for the patterns ,I just stick them on the stock and use the trim bit to make new ones...
|05-09-2008 07:12 PM|
Hi BJ, |
Being a little bit on the lazy side at the moment... I have 3 OP's handles. I've made a few different "push blocks" for them. Fortunetly, they work for me, and are comfortable to use.
When I made my version of your push block, I copied the shape and form from OP's handle. Granted, it's only 3/8" thick but, again it works, sometimes I do wish they were thicker more like 3/4" but, that's why we make them.
|05-09-2008 07:24 AM|
|beemerbob||Thanks to all you guys. I think I have the concept down now.|
|05-08-2008 08:30 PM|
Hi Ken |
hahahahaha I have so many push sticks I have lost count
It's one of the things I make all the time trying to find one that works for all router jobs I have one of the new yellow ones but I'm not to impress with it.
Home/Shop made ones work the best for me..
Originally Posted by Hamlin
|05-08-2008 08:12 PM|
Awwww, the wonderful thing about push sticks.... one can make them any size, shape or form in which suits the operator. |
Bob, last time I snuck a peek into your shop, I didn't see such a push stick.... so, where ya been hiding it?! LOL
|05-08-2008 06:06 PM|
Hi Bob |
Joe is right but I should have said once you have the slot just right make a dovetail key to slide in the slot and then glue it in place for a spot point for the handle,,,many have a hard time backing up the shoe with the bit spining and it takes time to do it just right without making the dovetail slot bigger than it should be...I would also suggest using a 1/4" or 5/16" strait bit 1st to remove some of the stock from the dovetail slot, it makes it easyer for the dovetail bit to work...and a place for the chips inside the dovetail slot.
When moving the dovetail bit back up, it's likes to jam and pull away from the fence and once it jams it's a real trick to get it out of the slot, not to say anything about it's a good way to cook a good dovetail bit..
May I also suggest you make a shoe like the one below, you will be surprise how well this type of push stick/block works for many router jobs with some double sided carpet tape on the front side of the push block it will hold the stock in place and will take the place of many coping sleds.
|05-08-2008 05:25 PM|
Bob, from Northwest Florida, |
Take the advice, which BobJ gave you, and do the same on the other side (top or bottom) of the push block piece. I would not make the dovetail slot go all the way through on either side. That way the handle has a stop point and the side support, you mentioned, has the same. In addition, cut a tight dovetail slot across the back of the block and that will be your "bottom pusher", while the long piece down the middle, or so, will be your side support. Hope this helps.
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