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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-29-2018 10:19 AM
Herb Stoops
Quote:
Originally Posted by Semipro View Post
I quite working hard building zero clearance Inserts.
Fast cap makes tape for zero clearance for miter saws ( 5 strips 5.00) the-one your looking at has been on the saw for months
That is a heck of a good idea, right after I make a new ZC I have to make a miter cut and if I don't change back to an old one I ruin the new one.
Herb
01-27-2018 08:36 PM
Semipro
Clearance

I quite working hard building zero clearance Inserts.
Fast cap makes tape for zero clearance for miter saws ( 5 strips 5.00) the-one your looking at has been on the saw for months
01-27-2018 10:33 AM
CharleyL You really only need something to keep the out feed end of the insert from lifting if the rising teeth of the blade should catch on it. You really don't want to have the blade throw the insert at you. Otherwise, the insert that you make should remain in place with gravity. I install a small roll pin in the out feed end of the inserts that I make for my Unisaw, and thread four 1/4-28 holes in the four support locations to level the insert and install set screws. The finer 1/4-28 threads tend to not back off from vibration like the coarse 1/4-20 threads do. My inserts are made from scrap Corian, HDPE, or Baltic Birch plywood, basically whatever I have on hand, and I usually make 6-10 at a time, leaving them as blanks until I need to use them. Then I make the blade cut with the blade that it will be used with. After it is cut, I write the blade details on the bottom of the insert and I will only use the insert for the blade that it is matched to. When the slot wears or the insert is somehow damaged, I discard it and make a replacement from one of the blanks on hand. I consider a good zero clearance insert to be a necessity for clean, accurate, splinter free, and safe cutting of my project parts, and I replace them often.

I have made zero clearance inserts for many different saws, and the Unisaws are some of the easiest to make because they are basically just a big oval of 1/2" thick material. The older Delta Contractor saws use the same insert The Ridgid and DeWalt contractor saws and the Ryobi BT3000 and 3100 are some of the harder ones to make because of the irregular shapes that the lower portion of the inserts require. The easiest way to make these is to find a material of the correct thickness to make the top of the insert and then use a thicker material to make the irregularly shaped lower part, cutting the irregular shape with a scroll saw or band saw., Then glue the two layers together. Baltic Birch plywood usually works best for these because it is available in many different thicknesses and can be purchased in small pieces from hobby and scroll saw supply houses. On Baltic Birch inserts, a coat of polyurethane followed by a coat of paste wax on the top usually provides a smooth enough surface, with the poly providing a seal to keep humidity from affecting the fit of the insert in the saw opening,

Charley
01-27-2018 08:42 AM
gmercer_48083 Thomas1389, I thought about using hot glue, but was not sure if it would stick to the casting and I didn't want to oil it. About set screws, my original Dewalt (aluminum) inserts have 4 set screws for adjusting the height, but I found that when adjusting one, it lifts the opposite edge which allows it to wobble. I use a well tuned hand plane on the bottom of the insert, shaving about .001" at a stroke to make the insert the right height. I couldn't do that on the laminate flooring because it was too thin. By gluing wood strips to the bottom, then sanding on a flat surface solved it. The other thing I found was the mdf insert was about .015" too tall when installed, but by shaving the bottom corrected it.
01-26-2018 08:37 PM
Stick486 most excellent tip Thomas...
01-26-2018 08:21 PM
thomas1389 The original insert on my saw has a pin that slips under a ridge at the outfeed end of the opening. it was sized to fit level with the table. When I make my own inserts I tap a little finishing nail into the end to slip under the ridge. I then put a little gob of hot melt glue on each of the four approximate corners, put it in place and sit a weight on it to keep it level till the glue cools. About 45 seconds or so. No leveling screws. No shims. No fiddling. No kidding. The glue sticks to the wood insert, not to the table casting.
01-26-2018 05:03 PM
Stick486 if this is your style of insert...
use a fostner bit to drill a rebate where the mounting screws go... this way you can use thicker materials...
do the same for support tabs...
if there is a support rim/ledge rabbet fit...
leveling screws go in the rim/ledge/tabs and not the insert...
01-26-2018 04:27 PM
kklowell My Delta has two screws to hold the insert in, one front and one back. It's also hard to make a zero clearance insert for because it's like the King saw above and only has a depth of about 1/8" (if that) around the edge. I did make a plywood insert for it, but it was hard to level. A couple of things in this thread have me thinking though and I'm going to see it there's any way to use set screws and laminate flooring, which I have plenty of.
01-26-2018 02:08 PM
hawkeye10 To level mine I buy set screws at the hardware store. Then I drill my holes in the zero insert plate and let the set screws make their own threads. Adjust the screws until the plate is level. The screws will stay where you put them and when the plate is worn out remove the set screws and use them again.
01-26-2018 10:09 AM
BrianS Gary, I know what you mean about plywood having a drag. First one I made was from 1/2" ply and I had to put a coating of paste wax on it. I have a Ridgid 4511 and use nothing to hold my insert in place. I installed 4 screws on the underside for leveling purposes.
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