|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-05-2018 02:36 AM|
|09-16-2018 01:16 PM|
Got the t-track in today. Working in the extended workshop (driveway). |
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|09-15-2018 04:51 PM|
Still need to route out a t-track but otherwise the insert is in. Router got away in one small spot but I can live with it. Still couldn't get deep enough so I had to add both bearings and that didn't leave much in the collet. Also working with MDF, so RZ Mask was on. Table has a Philadelphia Flyers (orange and black) theme (and goes well with the Ridgid colors). Thanks for all the help. Did I mention that I hate MDF? |
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|09-12-2018 08:33 PM|
|G00ber43||I did mine like this but put a rect. piece ,same thickness as the outside pieces inside to get support on both sides of the bit. I also glued up several thicknesses of paper about 3/8 inches long ( 2 on one side and 2 on the 90 deg. side) to make speed bumps. These pieces cause the insert cutout to be bigger than the plate except at the bump locations. This makes the plate fit tight but easy to take out. I hope this explanation makes sense to you. I was referring to DesertRatToms pictures.|
|09-12-2018 08:08 AM|
|psal217050||The bit wasn't at Lowe's and the one they had was the same length as I have. So I decided on using a 3/4" bearing on a 1/2" bit and do it like suggested earlier. I had to order them, no one local had them. Thanks for your help and I will post pictures once I get it done.|
|09-11-2018 01:01 PM|
Thanks. Looks like Lowe's has a bit that will work with the PC style adapter. Item # 26018 Model # 85242MC Bosch 1/2-in Carbide-Tipped Straight Bit. |
Not trying to complicate it anymore than I already have. Probably won't be able to do this until the weather clears.
|09-11-2018 11:52 AM|
|Cherryville Chuck|| |
Originally Posted by psal217050 View Post
|09-11-2018 11:29 AM|
Hi again. |
Try this. Get a half inch grommet which will be about an eighth of an inch thick, put it in the collet first, then bottom the the bit on the grommet. That might give you just enough reach to finish the cut. Are you trying to cut all the way through your base? Is the base single or double thickness. I always prefer double, ply on top, MDF below. That gives you an inch and a half total thickness, and you don't want the whole opening to be that depth, only about half an inch. With most mounting plates, that gives you 3/16ths of height adjustment space, which is the job of the height adjusters.
That means you want to cut out an opening half an inch all around, inside the outline of the plate. That gives you a shelf to keep the plate from falling through. Sounds like you are still trying to make the cut with the same setup. A bit like trying to pound a nail with screwdriver. With a 3/4 inch mortising bit and bearing, AND NO ADAPTERS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES, you should be able to make the "shelf" I've described.
Cut the smaller opening with a jig saw, then cut the shelf using the template. You may be able to find the mortising bit at a big box store, or order it from Freud on Amazon or at Home Depot online. I think you have over-complicated this project. Theoretically, you could make the cut the way you're trying, but it will be very difficult to get it right. The bushing offsets the straight bit so it will cut inside the line of the pattern, and the adapters restrict how far you can reach with that kind of bit. A double whammy so to speak.
Many of us have made or adapted our router tables using the mortising type bit only. A straight bit with bearing is almost the same as a mortising bit, but doesn't flatten the bottom quite as well. A straight bit without a bearing and trying to use a bushing, will give you the fits you're experiencing.
You only want to make that shelf (a rabbet actually) slightly deeper than the thickness of the plate. The height adjusting gadgets will let you raise the plate even with the top.
Below is a rough diagram (cross section) of what I'm talking about. The big arrow represents the height adjustment screw.
Here's a little video of someone doing this. Note that he is NOT wearing a mask-bad bad bad. But he is making the rabbit and using simple lag bolts through the four corners of the rabbit, on which the plate sits.
|09-11-2018 10:53 AM|
|psal217050||I found a bit that had a 3/4" bearing but the ID is too small to go onto the 1/2" pattern bit (from Rockler) that I have (the bearing was bottom mounted on another bit). It is a 1/4" shank. Rockler offers a 1/4"ID, 5/8"OD bearing replacement but that will only give me about 1/16" clearance if I do the math correctly. Still looking for a 3/4". I will check out Lee Valley Tools too. I have used them in the past. We also have a local True Valley that carries some bearing, so I will check them out too. Otherwise, I will order one.|
|09-11-2018 10:46 AM|
|TenGees||The ones that I've seen have a screw to lock the bearing to the shaft (see the pic in post #2 by Tom). So I believe you could use a 3/4 bearing on a 1/2 bit. I would try the guides if you can get the depth sorted out. I don't know the US suppliers but here's Lee Valley: Template Bits - Lee Valley Tools|
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