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  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-11-2018 11:22 PM
ranman Be interesting to take a piece of 3/4" thick wood and cut it into 2 pieces. Keep one piece indoors and one piece outdoors, covered but not in the rain or direct sun, and checking the moisture content weekly. Indoors probably won't change a lot. At the end of the test, bring the outdoor piece inside and see how long it takes to stabilize.
You could compare the readings to the chart in tha link.
That chart just gave me a bit more confidence when doing that oak stairway. I know the wood moisture content here on the coast doesn't vary all that much. Nobody here runs a humidifier or dehumidifier, so I'd say summer to winter humidity indoors is relatively stable. 20 miles inland from here would have a much different variation in humidity summer to winter.
11-06-2018 11:23 AM
Barry747 Interesting. I'm near Sarasota on FL's west coast. The nearest towns in the table are Tampa and Ft Myers. Taking an average between those two, I come up with a difference of 1.9% RH between the high and low over the year. However, since this table will be in an air conditioned and heated house and the table will have a finish on it, those numbers will be different. I have two temperature/humidity gauges, one in the house and one in my garage shop. Each displays the high and low for the day. Unfortunately, it doesn't retain that info for more than a day. I think I'll set up a spreadsheet and record those daily readings. It will take a year but I'll end up with accurate information. I can also make note of any out of the ordinary occurrences, like hurricanes, which can have an impact on the numbers. I also have a large clock with temp and humidity in the lanai. I can get outside readings from it. Thanks for fostering the idea. I'll post the results next year.
11-05-2018 12:29 AM
ranman This is for the book smart people here. It was in the same file as my previous link. Thought it might be interesting to some.
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/f...chapter_13.pdf
11-05-2018 12:25 AM
ranman Thought his might be of interest.
Here's a link to world wide wood moisture levels during each month of the year. I live on (near) the coast.
Go to pages 6 and on.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...re_content.pdf
Look at coastal locations, such as Florida or Charleston SC, or Astoria, Oregon. Not much change from January to July
Now look inland to Pendleton, Oregon or Billings, Montana. Lots of moisture changed from summer to winter.

Back to measuring moisture, a wood flooring manufacturer had a novel idea. This won't be easy with a 12 inch wide board, but for small stuff it does work.
Measure a board with dial calipers in 3 or 4 places. mark the measuring locations with tape or a pencil. Wait a few days and remeasure each location. Keep repeating this procedure until there is no change in the measurements.
I did this with a solid oak 3/4" by 3 1/2" T&G floor plank taken from an unheated warehouse. I moved it into a heated indoor office. The wood shrunk as much as a lawnmower's spark plug gap. It took about a week and a half to stabilize.
11-02-2018 08:44 PM
Barry747 Stick - came out fine. I'll read all of them over the weekend. Thanks again.
11-02-2018 06:03 PM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry747 View Post
Stick - I copied the 3 pdf's to my woodworking library on my PC. Two of them are good but the MOISTURE CONTENT AND MOVEMENT pdf has the right side of the page cut off. I don't know if it's me or the pdf. Would you please check that and, if it's not me, please repost it. Thanks.
here it is again...
11-02-2018 03:32 PM
Barry747 Stick - I copied the 3 pdf's to my woodworking library on my PC. Two of them are good but the MOISTURE CONTENT AND MOVEMENT pdf has the right side of the page cut off. I don't know if it's me or the pdf. Would you please check that and, if it's not me, please repost it. Thanks.
11-02-2018 03:21 PM
Barry747 Reading all of the posts, along with Stick's great detail, has given me an idea. The Walnut lumber for the table top is 8/4 and 9 feet long. Since the boards are rough sawn, I used a hand plane on part of the board to see what the figure looked like. More like skip planing. I'll do the same to the rest of the board. I ordered the pinless meter that I referenced in post #9 and it'll be here Sunday. If I can use the whole board, I'll wait until the moisture readings are the same on both sides of the board and consistent for a day or two. Then I'll cut the board into 3' lengths which is the rough cut for the 33" final boards. I'll then take a reading across each of the 4 cut ends to see how the moisture varies across the cut. Based on that I'll either resaw each piece to end up with the 6 boards I need for the top or wait a bit longer. The question is, since I don't expect the moisture reading to be the same across the entire cut, how much of a difference is acceptable before resawing?

Once I do resaw, I'll let he boards rest for a few days before the final milling and glue up.
11-02-2018 11:51 AM
difalkner I don't like checking boards from the end because they just about have to dry out quicker than the bulk of the board. And that's one reason I got a pinless meter - I can check anywhere and not put pin marks in the wood. I know the pin type is more accurate, although the way technology keeps advancing that may not always be the case.

David
11-02-2018 09:19 AM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoneface View Post
I use the Timber Check Moisture Meter s

Frank
it is a good one...

Timber Check™ Moisture Meter - Lee Valley Tools
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