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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-27-2019 07:30 PM
DesertRatTom Just a little feedback.

My DC setup is now set up in a closed chamber so virtually all the filtered air returns to the shop. I have a Wynn filter I got before the ones with the internal mechanism to knock dust off the filter was offered. I always recommend the newer type filter, Grizzly makes one.

I have shortened all hoses, but for practical reasons, still have the 27 foot flex hose, however, all my tools are within 10 feet of the DC so the hose is rarely fully extended except for shop cleanup There are no longer any sharp turns in the hoses and connectors. The space is too tight to use pipes or tubes. I take the point about other brand DC units, but have yet to have any need to upgrade from the basic HF unit. It works fine for me, and for lots of us. I have a split shop, my (Laguna) band saw, jointer, planer and track saw are in the garage, where I have the second HF unit with the Rockler chip collection setup. This rolls outside for use. So for me, buying two brand name units, such as the Jet, is prohibitive given my present (lower) income.

I have not made any modifications to either DC unit. They both work well for me as is. I mention the possibility of a different impeller only because it is available and some members have made that modification. I suggest the HF to anyone for whom cost is an issue. I believe, as a throat cancer survivor, that any dust collection is better than none, and that it should be an early addition to every shop. I also know that given a choice between an expensive DC unit an another important tool, that the DC usually loses to the tool.

Please note that I suggest placing the basic bag filter unit outside (in a dry area). In my shop shed, it is in an enclosed space next to the shed, with a 4 inch Rockler through the wall tube going through the wall. And yet, I still wear a simple dust mask even though the return air is filtered twice.

I recently added a Super Dust Deputy to my shop shed system, which has further enhancet the DC efficiency. The hoses are all shortened and straightened. The picture I post still shows the longer hose. I lost my camera so haven't taken a new picture yet.

FYI, the Wixey now uses two AAA batteries, has very long battery life (still on my first set after 2 years) and shuts off just fine, although I routinely turn it off manually. It also now has a rear illuminated readout, which makes it easier to read. I don't know the other brand but assume Stick's recommendation is good. Wixey changed the battery source in most of their digital tools several years ago because button batteries go dead so fast. I also use my Wixey to tune up my sliding miter. And the Wixey unit for planers also uses the AAA batteries now.

In addition to my small Rikon band saw (which I use all the time), I have a Laguna 14/12 in the garage, which is mainly for resawing. The jointer is a 6 inch Powermatic, the planer is a DeWalt 735. I also have a Laguna 10 inch hybrid table saw in the shop. Great tool maker. Each tool puts out lots of sawdust and a DC unit is a must.

I'm posting this because I felt a bit attacked a few posts back. My shop, tools and skills have evolved over time and I've done my best to get the best performance I can given my budget.

I like the Jet 650, about $560, which has the 1 micron filter and the crank to clean it. It also has a smaller footprint than the HF. With a chip collector it is a fine unit. The 1100 model is very similar to the HF unit and has a 5 micron bag (same as HF). I think it has a little more hp than the 650. You can get the 1200, 1100 but with a canister filter for about $800.

On sale, the HF was $162, the canister filter is about $180 or so for a total of $342. My two HF units, one with canister filter the other without, added up to $504, and they work just fine.

No one is making anyone buy anything, it's completely each member's choice. Most of us are posting about gear we actually have and use.
04-27-2019 08:38 PM
JFPNCM Late to the party as usual, welcome aboard anyway.

The discussions above are well stated and always worth a read.
04-27-2019 03:54 PM
Michel82 DC ...all that info is so overwhelming... well I’ll peg my budget, make it a foremost priority and go from there. Keeping in mind that we already breathe enough pollutants everywhere we go. Btw thanks for the tips Stick
04-27-2019 02:19 PM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post

1... If you want more air flow in the HF DC unit, you can order the Rikon impeller, which is metal and dramatically increases air flow and costs about $90.

2... Several people have done testing and modification on this machine and most of the users here seem happy with it.

3... If you buy a canister filter ($180 or so from Wynn, and change impellers, you're still no where near the cost of a high end unit with the same performance. If you have a commercial shop, you will need one of the $2,000Plus units, but for a home hobby shop, that just seems over the top.

4... If money is no object, you can go for a high end DC unit with a funnel shaped cyclone separator. On sale, my two HF units were about $162 each. That's less than the cost of a good quality replacement motor. If the motor goes out, I'll buy another unit.

5.... FYI the Wixey now uses AAA batteries so they don't go dead the way the old model did.

NickP... NickP said it best, some dust collection is better than none.

Re: The fence. When setting up the fence, you don't want it perfectly parallel to the miter slots. You want to have the far end of the fence flare out very slightly 4 thousdths is about right. This allows you to avoid pinching the work piece and causing a kickback. When I first got a table saw, I got hit by a kickback and the pain and bruise took a very long time to go away. You can use your combination square to set the fence. You want it to be flush to the fence on the near end, and just a smidge of opens space on the far end. If you have a dial indicator you can measure this precisely, but that degree of precision isn't really necessary. BTW, the gap will be about as thick as a crisp dollar bill, so the gap will be small A US dollar bill is 0.0043 inches thick.

Lots of little details to consider with woodworking.
1... No matter how much upgrade you do to the motor and impeller you are still limited as to how much CFM that will move through the machine's main orifice...
so why bother...
but on the other hand if you need/have to upgrade that should tell you just how inadequate the HF DC really is...
why throw money at something when there is no need to when there are units that are far superior, that ''plug and play'' out of the box and they lasts for decades (my Jet has in commercial mode)...

2... I'd like to read what they have/had to say... link me...

3~4... if you select OEM canister filtered units they have cleaners built into them...
and so much for your 2,000$ plan...
https://bestpowersaws.com/jet-dc-650...lector-review/
https://bestpowersaws.com/jet-dc-110...lector-review/
https://bestpowersaws.com/powermatic...0tx-ck-review/
make sure you scroll down the page for pricing...

5... Complaints are still showing up that the Wixey's auto off doesn't always work and the unit kills the batteries in a big hurry...
the owners need to remove the batteries to preserve them...
and the numerical fluttering on the screen is tough to keep up w/...
Tilt Box.. Superior unit for less...

Nickp... I believe you missed the context of what he has had to say in this thread and others. Tom...

RE: The Fence... That's another can of worms...

Lots of little details... EXACTLY!!!!
Every time you post a picture your installation I question what you did... worthy of a cringe...
all that flex..
all those 90's..
lack of sweeps..
those tight bends...
piping size reductions/changes..
I trust you are aware that your installation reduces efficiency and increases the motor load of the DC...
all of which lend to premature DC failure...
also, an outside of the shop DC install is fine if you haven't a HVAC shop environment...
a small shop can have a 100% air change in just a couple of minutes.. a medium sized shop, 5~8 minutes and a larger shop in as little as 10 minutes...
that sure is a lot of HVAC dollars being pumped outdoors...
so... some applications work for some shops as where those same applications are not so good for others...

Read these PDF's closely... PAY ATTENTION TO THE CONTEXT especially the DC Research PDF...

....
04-26-2019 11:40 PM
DesertRatTom If you want more air flow in the HF DC unit, you can order the Rikon impeller, which is metal and dramatically increases air flow and costs about $90. Several people have done testing and modification on this machine and most of the users here seem happy with it. If you buy a canister filter ($180 or so from Wynn, and change impellers, you're still no where near the cost of a high end unit with the same performance. If you have a commercial shop, you will need one of the $2,000Plus units, but for a home hobby shop, that just seems over the top.

If money is no object, you can go for a high end DC unit with a funnel shaped cyclone separator. On sale, my two HF units were about $162 each. That's less than the cost of a good quality replacement motor. If the motor goes out, I'll buy another unit.

I have two shop areas, one is a 12x24 wired and insulated shed in the back yard. The other is half the two car garage where I have the Laguna band saw, Powermatic jointer and DeWalt planer. I prep wood there and make stuff in the shop shed. Each has a HF unit, mounted outside the shed/shop with a Wynn canister filter. The one in the garage uses a bag, but I roll it outside for use. Each has a chip collector.

I've been looking at the Super Dust Deputy, a 4 inch cyclone, which I think will reduce dust getting into the filter even further. It runs around $170, but as a throat cancer survivor, I don't want to be breathing any sawdust, some of which is carcinogenic, and I don't want COPD either, thank you.

NickP said it best, some dust collection is better than none.

FYI the Wixey now uses aaa batteries so they don't go dead the way the old model did.

Re: The fence. When setting up the fence, you don't want it perfectly parallel to the miter slots. You want to have the far end of the fence flare out very slightly 4 thousdths is about right. This allows you to avoid pinching the workpiece and causing a kickback. When I first got a table saw, I got hit by a kickback and the pain and bruise took a very long time to go away. You can use your combination square to set the fence. You want it to be flush to the fence on the near end, and just a smidge of opens space on the far end. If you have a dial indicator you can measure this precisely, but that degree of precision isn't really necessary. BTW, the gap will be about as thick as a crisp dollar bill, so the gap will be small A US dollar bill is 0.0043 inches thick.

Lots of little details to consider with woodworking.
04-26-2019 08:49 PM
Nickp My planned purchase is the Jet 1100 Vortex...for about the same money ultimately spent on the HF and less work (if you're thinking of adding the additional goodies).

If you just want to go with the basic unit and not modify it with the filter cartridge, separator, impeller, etc... the cheapest unit is the HF. Others will need to chime in to attest to its efficacy. Make sure you compare CFM's and particle filtering (microns) if you're still shopping. Determine your required air flow and make sure whatever you purchase will satisfy that (throw some in for bends and runs). Particle filtering is key...good choice on putting it outside...the HF bag, as I understand it, blows quite a bit of small particles back into the room. Unless you also purchase a cartridge filter...

The important thing is to have good dust collection...any system is better than no system.

Just another opinion...you've heard the expression
04-26-2019 07:12 PM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michel82 View Post
Hi Stick,

Thanks for the warm welcome & the links too!

1... Bosch fence issue:

2... Tilt Box it is then, good thing I didn’t get the Wixey yet because honestly, I haven’t found a need to do angled cuts on the Bosch. The 13” capacity of my compound sliding miter saw has got me through what I have accomplished so far.

4... Laguna (will whisper that brand in my wife’s ear when she’s sleeping to send subliminal thoughts)

7... I use the Narex also... Even in my Bosch Bulldog...
I believe you are sharpening the out of OEM... I didn’t understand that last one, sorry Stick. If you mean changed the bevel angle on the Narex, yes I did.

8... How I find that enjoyable is beyond me.

dust collection... DesertRatTom has that covered for me when I hopped on aboard. I’ll be getting the 2Hp motor and mount that outside, which he recommended. I just need to first figure out my hose and PVC tubing route as I haven’t quite finalized the arrangement of my shop space. I want to finish reading “Best Workshops” From the Editors of Fine Woodworking first.

All the best!
Hi yurself and YUR WELCOME...

1.... all you might have to do is tweak the locking cam...

2... the Tilt Box will work on your SCMS too...

4... SNORK!!!....

7... that's what I meant... and do, do the ruler back bevel ''trick''...
it's only a 3 or 4 circular swipes on 1500± paper at less than 1°...
why did you turn your chisels into splitting axes/adzes..???
FWIW.. I use either a Veritas Mk II or a Tormek and hollow grind...

8... you ain't alone...

Dust collection...
you might want to research that here a lot closer...
you can do way better than a HF unit w/o the issues...
Some PDF's to get you started...
I'm partial to the Jet 650 or 1100...
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...ale-cheap.html
https://www.routerforums.com/tools-w...erse-back.html



.....
04-26-2019 11:49 AM
Herb Stoops 3... Look to see if the quill is bent... I did & it seems to be ok. The spindle is straight. the problem might be the chuck as the previous owner mentioned.


I bought a set of off shore forstner bits awhile back and the tangs were still black, (rough forged) and every one of them ran off center. So I deduced that since they were all ground on the round cutting edge,that they must have been chucked up to do that at the factory.
I then put a mark on the chuck with a sharpie, and rotated the bit one flat at a time, they were hex shanked, til I found the sweet spot where they were running true, then marked on the bit with a sharpie to match the chuck. I did this to every bit in the set and now I just grab a bit match the marks and chuck them up. Every once in awhile I refresh the mark on the chuck, if it is getting dim.
Herb
04-26-2019 09:14 AM
Michel82 Hi Stick,

Thanks for the warm welcome & the links too!

1... Bosch fence issue: nothing big really, I just find the need to push the guide against the front rail as I move it along left or right, and sometimes lightly tap the rear/far part of the fence before locking down. I never owned a table saw before and that’s what I did when I first set it up because it hardly cut straight the first few times I used it. So, I decided to play around with it learning as I go. I first loosened the bolts that holds the entire motor and gear assy. Then I put it in alignment using a borrowed dial gauge after seeing how to’s on YouTube. Now the blade is parallel with the miter slots/track (it was off by more than .008 front of the blade to back previously). The saw cuts true now. However, I still do the fence wiggle before locking, I must confess.

2... Tilt Box it is then, good thing I didn’t get the Wixey yet because honestly, I haven’t found a need to do angled cuts on the Bosch. The 13” capacity of my compound sliding miter saw has got me through what I have accomplished so far.

3... Look to see if the quill is bent... I did & it seems to be ok. The spindle is straight. the problem might be the chuck as the previous owner mentioned.

4... Laguna (will whisper that brand in my wife’s ear when she’s sleeping to send subliminal thoughts)

5... Thanks I’ll go see the substitute joiner PDF...

6... there are volumes here on RT's... I’m so glad to have stumbled on in here.

7... I use the Narex also... Even in my Bosch Bulldog...
I believe you are sharpening the out of OEM... I didn’t understand that last one, sorry Stick. If you mean changed the bevel angle on the Narex, yes I did.

8... Is this the way you are sharpening your chisels??? ...Oh you mean like a Japanese chef knife? No Stick ...25-28 ish primary bevel then polish the leading edge to near 30 deg. Totally flat for the back, no “ruler trick”. Just to give you an idea, I sharpen the way Paul Sellers shows on his channel (but without the talking, and way slower). I do it methodically, not rushing to get it done, and with new or really dull blades I go through more than three grits. It’s relaxing for me, I zone in and shut the world out just as I do with the cooking knives. How I find that enjoyable is beyond me.

dust collection... DesertRatTom has that covered for me when I hopped on aboard. I’ll be getting the 2Hp motor and mount that outside, which he recommended. I just need to first figure out my hose and PVC tubing route as I haven’t quite finalized the arrangement of my shop space. I want to finish reading “Best Workshops” From the Editors of Fine Woodworking first.

All the best!
04-25-2019 07:29 PM
Stick486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michel82 View Post
Hi all,

I’m Michel82 owner of a new DeWalt DW625. My router says type 4, anybody care to enlighten me what's the difference between types, if any? Thanks.
Type 4 would be 4th generation...

Some how I missed you intro...
so welcome to the forums Mitch...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post

Stick has a number of really good PDFs on safe and best use of routers and should be along soon with a post. Those are well worth reading.
Here's that easy reading Tom mentioned.... Just go to this link....
Foll Cherryville's link while yur in there..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Michel82 View Post
Hi Tom,

1... Right, so table saw. This was my first tool purchased for the hobby last year. Uncanny that it is the same exact tool which you recommend, a contractor Bosch 10”. I already tuned the replacement blade (a thin-kerf Freud industrial 50t combi) to align with the riving knife and fence perfectly. Well, almost perfectly because of the inherent deficiency of the flimsy fence. I do get by with only the slightest of misalignment, not by more than a few thou on short rips. I fitted in a Bosch plastic zero clearance insert and also bought extension aluminum extrusion front and rear rails to increase capacity to support work pieces on the left side. I haven’t the time to install the latter yet though.

2... Thanks for the advise about a Wixey digital angle finder. It’s in my Amazon cart as I write this, together with a 3/4 spiral upcut bit as recommended by Paulk as I haven’t drilled the clamping holes on the table yet.

3... I have a 1/2 Hp drill press that needs to be torn down to get the bearings replaced. It’s a Taiwan made 1985 model that a mechanic friend gave me. Really solid looking with cast iron parts. I bought a 14 piece Forster bit set for it and that’s when I found out that the runout was unacceptable. I hope to resolve that after I put in new bearings, a balanced Chuck and a new drive belt. If, it’s not up to par then I’ll just use it as a spindle sander and consider the brands you suggested.

4... Ok, a bandsaw. That’s down the road for me. But I really appreciate the recommendations and the effort you took to impart knowledge Tom. I just YouTube my way through most of this and, well bandsaws seem to have a very steep learning curve from what I’ve watched. So, dimensional s4s for now.

5... Yes dimensional timber is anything but. It’s wood, no surprise. For that I have a Stanley type-11 no. 7 jointer which is a jewel of a tool destined for a Museum. I reach for my jackplanes more often though, a vintage Stanley no. 5-1/2 fitted with a 2 1/4” Hock 01 blade, a Record 5-1/2 (which I had cambered the blade to hog out wood), and another 2” Stanley no. 5. I also have a couple of decent Stanley no. 4’s - one is fitted with a IBC/Cosman A2 blade & breaker set, which is kinda overkill as the set almost weighs as much as the frog. Oh and block planes, I got those covered too. I subscribe to Patrick’s Leach’s monthly antique tool sale newsletter

6... Make my own router table you say? I need to YouTube that first and save the good vids for “watch later”. That is Number One on the 17 things!

7... Ok chisels, I have the Narex bench set from Amazon & their 4 piece mortising set too. Just because. I found the steel on these to be quite “soft”, unlike the two “white steel” Koyamaichi chisels which are just incredible. A few years back, B.C. (Before Chisels), I got into Japanese knives for slicing and dicing as I wanted something worthwhile to learn as I hunkered down the mundane task of prepping ingredients to cook family meals. That turned into a passion and really spiced things up, so to speak.

8.... Coincidentally, the way you sharpen these knives is asymmetric. Bevel heavy on one side way more than the other.

Regards,
Mitch
1... I and several others here have the 4100...
now about the fence... what are yur issues??? I don't have them so let's fix yours...
@Nickp and @Herb Stoops have the same saw and to my recollection they haven't any issues either...
I'm a Freud blade advocate also...

2... I had the Wixey.. Move to the head of the class and get a Tilt Box instead...
better battery life and no wheres near as temperamental..
Tilt Box II Digital Inclinometer for Tool Setting - Lee Valley Tools

3... Look to see if the quill is bent...
see if the chuck is on straight...
see if the chuck jaws are closing uniformly...

4... I'm all about Laguna...

5... KUDOS on the planes...
Also, see the substitute joiner PDF...

6... there are volumes here on RT's...
https://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/

7... I use the Narex also... Even in my Bosch Bulldog...
I believe you are sharpening the out of OEM...

8... Is this the way you are sharpening your chisels???

Bonus...
your dust collection...
you might want to search that here too...

.......
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