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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-04-2012 01:02 AM
david cooksey Since here in my area the local lumber yard has to do a special order for MDF, i have used Baltic Birch Plywood since the lumer yard told me it would cost $50 + $22.50 frt for some MDF 4' x 8' sheet and baltic birch is $44.50 for a 5' x 5' sheet so i bought 2 sheets of Baltic Birch Plywood. Then i laminated the entire table top in Formica.

Dave
04-25-2012 09:08 AM
paduke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrifty Tool Guy View Post
I'm re-doing my router tables and I've done the glue ups of 3/4" MDF on 3/4"MDF for a 6/4" thick top and made my templates for the plates. Now, wanting to be super correct this time, do I need to laminate the top and bottom of this super thick table or is one layer of laminate enough? If you tell me I need two, tell me why?

BTW - Ill be mounting a Dewalt 625 and an Elu 3338 using Bench Dog aluminum plates. I'm considering using a router raizer on the Elu and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the installation of that device and whether or not they retained the springs.
The material needs to be sealed how you do it is up to you.
04-25-2012 07:01 AM
Woodworker Shack
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
Here is a picture of the top made form a cubicle work top.
Nice router table you got!
04-23-2012 06:05 PM
Thrifty Tool Guy
Is laminate top and bottom really necessary?

I'm re-doing my router tables and I've done the glue ups of 3/4" MDF on 3/4"MDF for a 6/4" thick top and made my templates for the plates. Now, wanting to be super correct this time, do I need to laminate the top and bottom of this super thick table or is one layer of laminate enough? If you tell me I need two, tell me why?

BTW - Ill be mounting a Dewalt 625 and an Elu 3338 using Bench Dog aluminum plates. I'm considering using a router raizer on the Elu and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the installation of that device and whether or not they retained the springs.
04-20-2012 01:47 PM
Mike 3/4" Baltic birch plywood with Formica top and bottom will last many years.
04-20-2012 12:36 PM
jeff niehenke For what its worth my last table was white melamine faced osb you find at the big box store and i roughed up one side and glued it to a second sheet of regular 3/4 mdf.
after 3 years there was a slight bow to it.
Hindsight i should have used two pieces of the same material as i believe the bottom mdf expanded and warped the more stable melamine faced osb. I also did not seal the mdf in any way which may have saved me too.
04-19-2012 07:37 PM
rwl7532 Plan old MDF with liberal coats of Watco and then a good waxing. Otherwise you have too much invested in time and money. You will use the router top as an auxiliary work area and it will get dinged up in short order. Then you have an easy and cheap replacement. YMMV.
04-19-2012 03:51 PM
mgmine Here is a picture of the top made form a cubicle work top.
04-19-2012 03:31 PM
mgmine Mine is about 1 1/4" thick laminated particle board. It's 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. I picked it up at a used office furniture store it was a top for a cubicle work station. It's heavy and far better than anything you could build. The part is that it only cost a few bucks because they have so many of these things laying around.
04-19-2012 12:14 PM
JOAT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
a simple piece of melamine shelving from home depot with some 2x4s to support it is inexpensive and effective. what's wrong with that?
Well, I don't like Home Depot. Otherwise should be no problem. I use 1/2" plywood, with lots of 2X4 support under. The latest is 2-3 years old, minimum, and no sag, does just what I need it for. Got maybe $2 in it.
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