|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-22-2012 07:54 AM|
|mgmine||Often times when making drawers I reuse old drawers that I find at the curb. I make the front out of what ever material I am using for the rest of the cabinet so that it will match but use the found material for the sides and bottom. When I find a nice drawer I pick it up even if I don't need it. I then take it apart and save the wood. A lot of time you can get nice solid oak or mahogany from the drawer fronts. Although the wood is small it makes nice boxes.|
|10-20-2012 10:11 PM|
For simple, I do locking rabbet joints like Bill posted. For simpler, I do rabbet joints like Art posted. I do both on either a router table or a table saw. |
Dimensions? I use 1/2 thick stock. Sides, I make a rabbet on each end 1/2 inch wide, by 1/4 inch deep. I cut a slot 1/4 wide by 1/4 deep, 1/4 from the bottom for the drawer bottom. The front and rear are 1/2" less than the width of the drawer. The bottom is 1/2" less than the width of the drawer and 1/4" less than it's length. The front and rear are the same width. The front is the same height as the sides, with a 1/4 wide by 1/4 deep slot cut in it 1/4 from the bottom. The rear is 1/2 less in height than the front and sides.
The front and sides are glued and nailed with brads, lining up the slots in the pieces. The rear is glued and nailed with the bottom edge lining up with the top of the slots in the sides. That way the bottom slides into the slots in the sides and into the slot in the front... then stapled to the underside of the rear. The drawer is then fitted. Once fitted, the drawer front is attached to make any visual adjustments to where it's going to live.
I vary those dimensions based on how heavy the drawer should be, but proportionately they are basically the same.
Locking rabbets? Same locations and measurements for the limits of the joint, just different joints. A rabbet joint you have more glue area than a butt joint or mitered joint. A locking rabbet joint, you not only have more glue area, you start using wood of opposing pieces to help hold it together. Other joining such as dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, dovetail keys... You then leave the realm of simple and fast, which is what the OP asked for.
|10-20-2012 12:13 AM|
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
|10-19-2012 07:10 PM|
|jw2170||Dovetail Joinery with a Router - YouTube|
|10-19-2012 12:12 PM|
|Chris Curl|| |
Originally Posted by paduke View Post
|10-19-2012 11:27 AM|
|JOAT||You want quick and simple, then butt joints, with glue blocks in each corner, and along the bottom edges.|
|10-19-2012 09:50 AM|
|L Town Graphics|| |
Originally Posted by mgmine View Post
|10-19-2012 08:24 AM|
|mgmine||Rabbet the front of the drawer the depth of what you are using for the sides so that the sides will be flush. Route the bottom of the sides so that you can slide a piece of wood in for a new bottom. Put this together and then measure the distance of the back inside and cut a piece of wood to fit (inside). Route this back piece out on the bottom just as you did with the sides. Nail your sides to the front, slide the bottom in and then attach your back. You could probably use your old drawer parts to make a new one.|
|10-19-2012 08:03 AM|
|pretender||I'm sure you can find just what you are looking for On You Tube.|
|10-19-2012 08:00 AM|
This link offers a neat trick using a slot cutter |
Drawer Joinery Using A Slot Cutter : One Great Tip
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