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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-30-2015 09:59 AM
mac1
Router bit speed

I am a beginner, when it comes to routers, that was a great tip, not only from a safety point of view but it helps to know what your doing and why. Again thanks for the tip.
03-27-2015 08:24 AM
WoodCritter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
best one yet...
+1 - It is amazing to realize just how much more there is to learn!
03-27-2015 04:08 AM
oldbilbo
Edge to edge dinghy-boat planking

I'm a bit diffident making an offering to this 'masters' forum' but in case it helps someone....

I watched a skilled boatbuilder 'mate' the thin planking strips - you might call them veneers, except these were ~90" x ~8-10" x 3 mm strips of bendy marine plywood - which were laid up onto the framework ( bulkheads and stringers ) of a new pair of 45' catamaran hulls.

The first strip was secured using an electric staple gun with Monel staples - which wouldn't be removed, saving a lot of 'making good'. The second strip-plank was affixed parallel to and about 1/8" from the first, using a few 'holding' staples with string or banding tape strips underneath so they could readily be removed without gouging.

Then a handheld router - MOF96 - with a 1/4" cutter was run along the gap between the two strips. That left a pair of adjacent edges which, when the 'holding' staples were removed, mated together perfectly. New Monel staples were then used to hold the planks in final position..... one could use nylon staples if available.

When the whole hull was clad in this way, Layer Two was started at 45 - 60 degrees to Layer One, with a coat of epoxy resin between. This sealed the thin ply against moisture ingress and added considerably to final strength and rigidity.

A third layer of ply, with epoxy, was added the same way to make a very strong and stiff compound-curve plywood 'cold moulded' structure. Admirers think the tight curves imply a GRP moulding.
03-25-2015 12:16 AM
Larkan Harry many thanks for your generous contributions. I just watched your ski making video and reminded myself I need one of those, so thanks again.
Kerry
03-24-2015 08:49 PM
mac1
zero clearance

That is an awesome tip cricket, iam learinging so much from you and others its incredible.
03-04-2015 02:08 PM
bryansong Those are some really great ideas, keep them coming.
03-04-2015 11:53 AM
mist34
router speed

A European standard considers that a carbide cutter should run at a speed between 30 and 70 m/s, this means between 90 and 210 ft/s. For a router at max speed (22000 rpm), a 1" bit would have the minimum peripheric speed, 90 ft/s. This means that a smaller bit runs too slow, fortunately it works all the same !
So I start slowing down my router for bits over 1" diameter. For a 2" bit I would use 11000 rpm. I also slow down if my bit burns the wood (I first sharpen it), and increase the speed if the cut is not clean.
11-28-2014 08:04 AM
Nickp I find using my router on small pieces is sometimes uncomfortable, for example, routing through a small piece to make a slot...It seems fairly easily done by the veterans in the group and I certainly look to the day when it is comfortable for me as well. In the meantime, I put this together originally as a jig for making louvre shutters but have found it useful for many other things...maybe it will help you as well...

The space between the pieces that are not slotted fits my palm router exactly...putting stops behind or in front of the router will limit the travel, if needed.

The slotted pieces and knobs accommodate when I need to cut at an angle...

The darker pieces with slots accommodate clamping the piece to be cut...

My tip...? I find it a great learning experience making something that makes my job easier or more comfortable...I'm sure I will stop using some of the jigs or templates I've made or maybe they were single-purpose...for now they are serving a purpose.

Nick
11-28-2014 04:41 AM
simsy To stop my router bits bottoming out in the router's shaft I have a snug fitting 1/2" o-ring living in there. Just drop the bit in onto the o-ring and tighten the collet. Do the same with my 1/4" router. Don't have to worry about the depth of the bit in the collet. They always fit tightly when the collet is done up.
11-25-2014 02:25 AM
old55 Nice to see you Harry.
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