|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-02-2015 11:19 AM|
In case anyone is wondering the fences are still being produced and sold online directly by the manufacturer in Newmarket, Ontario, Canada. I bought one last year and because I live close to their place of business I was able to save on the cost of shipping. |
|03-01-2015 10:53 AM|
|lake9guy||Thanks for a really comprehensive post with photos! I am just about completely new at woodworking of any thing larger than rough carpentry, some DIY stuff and small wood projects. Enjoyed just understanding what your fine saw/fence setup is all about was educational. lake9guy|
|09-24-2013 07:22 PM|
Nice looking.... Can you tell me easy/fast it is to remove & replace the fence from the rail? I use a sled a lot and a fence will be in my way in my limited sized shop. |
Thanks in advance.....
|09-13-2010 08:59 AM|
I have an M-1050 still new in the box. It's all black ... including the rails. I think it's time to get off my butt and install it on my 70's Rockwell/Delta contractor saw. |
Thanks to everyone that posted pics!
|06-05-2010 12:02 PM|
Wow, that looks like a pretty nice set up. Can you please tell me what it cost? Maybe I can get lucky and find one. |
|05-27-2009 12:46 AM|
|westend||You're right, Jerry, the extension is a space hog, to some extent. It does provide some storage (the bottom shelf) and I have plans to improve that. I am building a crosscut sled and will build a storage solution for that into the extension table, too. My "shop" is small (a single detached garage) and I am going to rearrange tools to accomodate the saw and table. I'll post some pics of that and the shop space when I am nearing completion.|
|05-26-2009 10:17 PM|
|xplorx4||Good job, lookin good!! I will one day build the right side of my saw out but not as far as yours. Just don't have room. I guess I could arange things different but not right now!! Would enjoy some pics back in the shop. I can't remember did you post pics of your shop?|
|05-16-2009 12:47 PM|
Thanks Jerry, |
I thought the review might be helpful for someone looking to upgrade. I was initally, looking for a Delta T-2 fence since I have a Delta saw and I read good thinggs about the T-2. Unfortunately, I was unable to find a complete T-2 in my area. I more or less stumbled upon the Accusquare at Rockler and, as some missteps in my life, it turned out well.
I built the extension table using a frame of pine 1 x 4. The frame is rabbeted to accept the two pieces that comprise the top, 1/2" Baltic birch ply and 1/4" hardboard with a painted top. The frame is corner blocked and cross braced. On the far end of the extension are corner blocks made from 1" teak composite and a drilled block of pine to accept the 7/8" threaded rod that I used for the legs. The threaded rod is bolted through the bottom shelf, a 3/4" melamine faced particle board. The threaded rod allows me to keep the extension and fence rails exactly parallel to the saw top. The fence just glides along the rails. The bottom frame of the extension, which attaches to the mobile base of the saw as it existed, is made from 2 x 4 and is cross braced and blocked, also. I used the same urethane wheel casters that were under the original mobile base for the extension table. They were the largest expenditure of the whole project but allow for easy movement over any surface.
Shop notes and personal critique: If I rebuilt the extension table, I would make the frame of hardwood. I had an "economy moment" at the lumber yard when I was choosing supplies. The Swedish Pine was terrible to work, having a lot of tearout, and won't last like a piece of Maple or Oak.
I am pretty much slapping myself on the back for the total project as most of the supplies and materials I had on hand. I was able to tune up the old Rockwell/Delta to a point where I can be very accurate. Along with the fence and table, I rewired and relocated the switch, added dust collection, replaced the saw cabinet sides and shelf, changed belts, and aligned the blade and table with a gauge set.
Attached are some glamour shots. Hey, it's Minnesota, so forgive the dandelions in the yard, I'm all over them.
|05-16-2009 02:06 AM|
|xplorx4||Lance that is an excellent write up you have presented. One overall shot would have been nice, but is not necessary. The white top is one you made, is it a melamine, or laminate top and how thick did you make it. I would give you a job more than well done on the presentation.|
|05-15-2009 11:18 PM|
Mule Accusquare rip fence M1050
I've been using thie Accusuare fence for a couple of weeks and I thought I'd share my thoughts about it so others that are looking to upgrade their table saw fence have some information.
I purchased the Accusquare M-1050 at my local Rockler Woodworking store. It was on clearance and I could not find any other Accusquare products in the store. It may be that Rockler has ceased selling them. The Mule Cabinetry website can be accessed Here.
I guess a mention of price is relative since it probably influences most woodworker's decisions. The M-1050 is listed at $189.00, currently. That is lower than some other choices like Vega, Biesemeyer, Incra, etc.. Since I bought the M-1050 at clearance, the price was much less.
What I got: Two boxes, one box with the fence assembled and misc. bolts, washers and nuts for attachment and some T-nut bolts, Included was a four page instruction booklet. The second box held the front and back aluminum rails. All was packaged decently.
The fence is comprised of a 35" extruded aluminum channel block, 3" H x 2 1/2"W. The aluminum channel has T-tracks, two on top, two on the bottom, and one on each face side. The aluminum channel is bolted with four bolts to a piece of 10" 3" x 2" steel angle. The angle steel comprises the mechanism for locking the fence to the rail with a star knob and two spring loaded rollers that track on the front fence rail. It is really a quite simple device. Mine is all black.
The rails are 72" long. The front rail is a 3-sided box channel with two rolled edges on the outboard side. The back rail is an aluminum angle. Both rails are undrilled, anodized in gold finish.
Installation was not hard but took more than a few hours on my Rockwell/Delta Contractors Special 10" saw. I used the holes that are in the saw table so I needed to be meticulous about measurements. Not all the holes were in the same plane from the top. One thing that did help were the fairly good installation instructions and the manufacture of the front rail. The rail has a series of parallel, equally spaced ridges on the back that help to adjust the height of the front rail. Alll this is spelled out in the instructions and once you have the height set on the front rail, drilling of holes, both front and back went well. Since the rails are 72" long, even pulling them all the way to front-facing left and mounting, left 34" of rail unsupported to the right. Provisions have to be made to suppoert the ends of the rails. I made a simple extension table to accomodate the rails. After the rails and fence are assembled, adjustment of a slotted HPDE block on the back rail finishes the rail and fence installation. The measuring tape is a peel and stick and the cursor is adjustable should you place it out of accurate. Squaring the fence to the blade is straight-forward. Loosen the four bolts on the front, align the aluminum fence, and tighten.
How does it work: The fence is a huge improvement over the stock tube rails and steel rip fence that were original. Actually, my stock fence was so worn that clamping a level to the table would have been an improvement. The fence and rails offer good, accurate repeatability. Initially, I ripped some 2" oak and slid the fence back and forth between cuts. All the pieces appeared to be exactly the same size. I did not use a micrometer, trusting my fingers that I have found to be very accurate. Being able to rip larger sheets and the repeatability are definitely worth the upgrade but I have one major impression and that is:This fence system does exactly what I want it to do, does it simply, and is accurate. There is nothing in the materials or construction that would lead me to believe that the M-1050 is not going to be a very durable product. The T-tracks on the face of the fence make installing a sacrificial covering fence very easy. I counter bored four holes and bolted a 3" piece of hardwood to the working side of the fence. Attached below are some pics of the fence.
Rating:9 (or better) of 10. Simple, accurate, durable.