|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-17-2007 03:22 PM|
Thank You Guys.
Gentlemen (I use that term loosely here), thank you for the replys. I went to the barn today and checked out the saw. Model # 113.236110 same as Rogers. It is broke at the mounting bracket at the rear of the table. To fix it with new would require a new housing asm and new table ($115.00+tax=SH). So I think I will try what Roger suggests. Maybe some J-B weld. I'v seen samples of what all it can glue up. If that don't work, maybe a new saw. Don't know when I will get to trying to fix it. Cold in the barn now.
thanks again Bob N, Ken, Corey, Doug, Roger and Bj.
|11-17-2007 12:07 PM|
Hey Dave |
Take a look at the link below
and note the snapshot of the Craftsman saw and the model number in one of the pictures.
|11-17-2007 12:05 AM|
Originally Posted by Dr.Zook
Rarely do good and "cheap" come in the same package. I have a Craftsman 16" Scroll Saw that I bought Feb 1994 for $88 (Model 113.236110) and it has been a good one thus far... have used it for hours and hours. I almost choked when I looked up the replacement table...$45.99 + S&H ! No way! Is that yours or is yours similar? So, do you still have the pieces? I can almost guarantee a fix for it... using Super Glue and Epoxy. Similar repairs on aluminum, pot metal (die castings) and plastics have worked wonderfully for me.
Remove the table parts and see if you can get them to fit together tightly; if not, sand or grind off any interfering spots. Also sand or "Dremel" that heavy gray paint off the bottom of the table along the break line... about 1/4" back to give a good bonding surface underneath. Try not to damage the top surface except to remove any burrs that might have bent upward. Next find a good FLAT spot to work, such as the top of your table saw, a piece of plate glass, hardboard or MDF. Lay out a piece of waxed paper longer than the scroll saw table and test-fit the pieces together. If they fit nicely, SuperGlue along JUST the mating edges and clamp it. Tight clamping is not necessary; a good fit is important. Give it 30 minutes to set! It will bond in 20 seconds, but I have learned that the bond seems to grow stronger if allowed to completely dry and set up. Try to avoid handling it if you can. i.e. leave it on the flat work surface. Next grind off any excess glue from the bottom. The bottoms of most of these tables have support webs cast in various patterns, so you will have to use your best judgment on where to spread the epoxy. If the piece had to be handled put down fresh waxed paper. If there are some webs running perpendicular to the crack, sand some spots on them for epoxyed splints on both sides. Wipe the bottom clean with a damp cloth or sponge and allow it to dry. Always mix more epoxy than you think you will need; it seems to shrink when you start applying it. I have had my best results with PC-7 and J-B Weld epoxies, but any reputable brand will probably work ok. That stuff is unbelievably tough. Let the epoxy set at least 24 hours at 65 degrees or warmer. I don't care if the directions say only one hour...give it 24! Finally, remove the waxed paper and lightly sand the top surface of the repaired table and reassemble. Be careful not to over tighten anything that will put undue stress on the repair. Finally, don't eat too much turkey !
Tip: If your saw is like mine, the rectangular hole through the table is about 1/2/" x 3/8" ... too big for sawing small pieces and drop-off scraps get stuck there. I cut a piece of 3/16" hardboard to fit my table top, and sawed a blade-width kerf for installing and removing it. Most of the time I just leave it clamped to the saw. It makes a great Zero-Clearance cutting surface.
|11-16-2007 09:08 PM|
Check you local craigslist.com or use Ebay to search local auctions. I got my Delta Q3 off of Ebay that way a while back, and they guy who sold it to me threw in so many blades that I've hardly had to buy any. Don't buy any one you can't drive out and see.
You could also search for a reconditioned one at toolking, harbor freight online, or any of the other sites that handle recond tools.
http://www.cpowoodworking.com/scroll_saws/ss350r.html under $170
|11-16-2007 09:05 PM|
Hi Dave |
Can you post the model number or better yet with a picture I just may have one that will fit the one you have...that's down and out..
BUT most things can be repaired ,it's just a bracket/mount
Hardwood can be used sometimes with some well placed screws..I can't tell you how many times I have repair tools with just some good hard Maple/Ash
Originally Posted by Dr.Zook
|11-16-2007 08:49 PM|
If you don't want to spend over 200.00 then I would suggest the Delta SS 350 as Bob N says. It's about as cheap as I would go and still be useable... however, I would also check out the Craftsman 16 at Sears as they go on sale f everyonce in a while. For a dozen times a year or less, it just might do the trick. |
|11-16-2007 08:39 PM|
|Hamlin||Dave, besides looking for a new/used scroll saw. Try taking the broken table to a machine shop. They may be able to repair/machine it like new or make a new one just as cheap. (Sometimes).|
|11-16-2007 08:23 PM|
I have found my Delta to be of good quality and did not break the bank. It is solid and well accepted by WW.
If you need to go even lower than that, then the Dremel may be worth looking at.
|11-16-2007 07:58 PM|
Good and inexpensive scroll saw?
Is there such a thing? I want something inexpensive (cheap) but reliable to be used maybe half dozen times a year. I don't plan on using it strictly for scroll sawing, but it would seem to be a companion for the bandsaw. I bought a Craftsman 16" at an auction and before I got to use it, it fell of the table I had it on and broke the table off. They want two times as much as I paid for the saw, for the table at Sears parts. So, I'm looking for a cheap replacement. Any suggestions scrollsawyers, or Bj, or anybody?