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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-29-2015 04:17 AM
Mike Chuck, was this for rails or in a larger piece?
07-28-2015 11:59 PM
whimsofchaz Sorry guys its a plunge router and I did it this afternoon and it worked well. I plunged the router down into the existing hole then moved it forward before it reached full speed. Outside of a little sloppy routing, I only had a guide on one side and I got a little wide on one part of the cut, it worked.well. I did it in 1/8 to 1/4 increments and it was pretty fast. 2 slots only took me about 5 minutes. Thanks for the advice

07-28-2015 11:17 PM
tomp913 The OP doesn't say whether he has a fixed base or plunge router. Here is a method using a fixed base router posted be Serge at Woodworking Hobbyists Workshop - he also has a method using a plunge router. https://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress...e-a-base-fixe/ He does mention the potential problem using a fixed base router and routing the depth in increments - if the router motor is not perfectly centered in the base, you can wind up with a slot having steps in the sides. One of the advantages of a fixed router. Using a plunge router, he makes a fixture similar to those used for guiding a circular saw; the fence is attached to the base leaving an edge distance slightly greater than 1/2 the base diameter minus 1/2 the bit diameter. The fixture is trimmed to size by running the router along the fence. In use, the fixture is clamped in place on a layout line - or the edges of the two pre-drilled holes - and the slot cut in increments, either by starting and stopping on layout lines or adding stop blocks at either end of the fixture.

07-28-2015 08:43 PM
Cherryville Chuck Chuck if you are trying to take a 3/8 bit and start in a 3/8 hole bad things are likely to happen. There is very close to no humanly way possible you can do that without it starting to bounce around as it gets going. You just can't normally control the torque that accurately. The risks are: bent shank on bit, broken bit, bent armature on the router, & totally losing control of the router and having it come out of your hands.You can do as suggested and lean the bit into the cut as you move it but the groove won't likely be that accurate. This is really a job for a plunge. Like Harrysin likes to say, "A plunge router will do anything a fixed base will do but a fixed base won't do everything a plunge will do".
07-28-2015 06:21 PM
boogalee Are you using a router bit with a bearing or guide bushings?
07-28-2015 06:10 PM
fire65 It will work assuming you are using some sort of guide. You could use a jig or just an edge guide on your router. I will say it you are using a regular 2 flute cutter, do not just press it in, always slide the work piece across the bit. Regular bits are not designed to plunge very far.
07-28-2015 05:51 PM
Ghidrah Are you using a plunge or fixed based router? A plunge would make your project simpler. In any case I suggest you make a simple straight edge jig that you can clamp to the ends of the project or somewhere on the work table. Set the router bit into the each hole made then mark 90° from the outside edge of the router base. Place the straight edge to the marks made and clamp it down.

I would choose 2X stock or something thick enough to allow you to tip the router down into the eventual dado track
07-28-2015 05:12 PM
What happens if I do this

I have a jig I am trying to make. I need to route a slot in 3/4 plywood. I have drilled two holes 3/8 wide and I need a slot between the holes. Am I going to get myself in trouble if I insert a 3/8 router bit into the hole and try to route out the slot 1/4 inch at a time. I have a slow start on my router so I can slip the bit into the hole with my plunge router. Will I get kickback on this? Thanks


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