|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-19-2019 06:42 PM|
|DesertRatTom||This is a well aged string. I found some small, 50 watt equivalent LED reflector bulbs that screw into a standard light socket. I bought $2 gooseneck lamps at a second hand store, took the bases off and mounted them using the threaded shaft. Works great, stays cool, a huge amount of light, switches on the back of each reflector. Or pop for a little more to get miniature relflector new. These throw a fairly sharp edged shadow, which actually helps locate the blade position. I'd probably affix the mounting plate behind the machine, connected to the stand, so the goosenecks extend over the blade.|
|09-19-2019 03:53 PM|
Wow, you have been digging into ancient history. |
Using two lights is better, because it almost completely eliminates the blade shadows, so you can actually see where the blade is cutting. Going with LED lights also eliminated the forehead burns that I kept getting when I was using the halogen lights. I still use the same two light system and vacuum when using my scroll saw, but several years ago my son brought me a metal 20 gallon grease barrel (grease came in a plastic bag inside) and I made a lid from two layers of 3/4 cabinet birch ply to attach my Dust Deputy to it. No more bucket implode incidents, but the barrel emits an oil can type pop sound sometimes when I start the vacuum.
Put two lights on your scroll saw, one shining down at about a 45 deg angle on each side of the blade. I think you will be very pleased with the result.
|09-18-2019 01:15 PM|
Sold the single speed Hegner I bought for two hundred twelve years ago for four hundred. Bought an RBI for two, added a couple things and sold it to a buddy for what I had into it and used that money to buy a variable speed Hegner. All this and answering questions about the saw got me to looking it all over again. A LOT more information out there on using them today and I'm actually enjoying the critter for the first time. |
The LED light I bought for the RBI went out the door with it, so the new, used Hegner didn't have one. The problem [of lack of lighting] was solved by that I, a while back, bought several sewing machine lights as task lights for various tools. For example, I mounted one on the head-stock and one on the tail stock of my lathe and they provide the light I need to tend details, when turning. I had a couple more I was going to mount on my miter (right and left), but hadn't got to yet. Because the Hegner hold down is iron, the rare earth magnets attach to it fine and it seems to be doing the job.
Just for reference, these run about nine to fourteen dollars (get the ones with the most LED's, which, I believe, is about forty-five).
|11-28-2016 01:28 PM|
I was doing great, copying your idea, until I turned the saw on and watched the light assembly go up and down a million times, before rocketing across the room. |
May I shouldn't have tied it to the arm that moved the blade?
|11-27-2016 08:10 PM|
|paduke||I have this https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds mounted on my scroll saw cabinet. I sit on a stool and am able finally see those lines|
|11-27-2016 07:26 PM|
|DesertRatTom||I finally looked at the pictures of the scroll saw and really LIKE the use of flat aluminum for mounting the light. Easy to work with and plenty strong. I have some thick, 2 inch L shaped stock that would be very easy to mount on practically anything. I have one more extremely bright LED fixture to set up and your idea really clicks.|
|12-09-2015 06:59 PM|
I will have to check the post to see what you are making, good idea on the christmas presidents. I am pretty well cover for dust collection. I have a dust collector with the upper paper filter and using a separatorand also have a air filter unit and connect my handheld tools to a vac, or the DC. |
I'm in my mid 60's and between a few years in the engine room while in the Navy, working as a laborer and being involved in woodworking and old cars for most of my life. I figure my lungs are getting near full of all kinds of stuff so I recently got serious about dust collection.
|12-09-2015 09:14 AM|
Originally Posted by herrwood View Post
I'm scrolling about 5 hours a day right now, trying to meet the Christmas present rush. I too never sell what I make, but give everything away (see my post about Christmas Ornaments). My vacuum is running longer hours than that because I am also connecting it to my sanders and drill presses. If I didn't have the Dust Deputy separating all this super fine sawdust my lungs would be filling up with it. Get one for a shop vac or whatever you use for a vacuum. An old canister house vacuum cleaner will do if you connect a Dust Deputy ahead of it to separate the dust from the air. The bag in the vacuum will never see the saw dust so the vacuum level will remain the same (until the bucket over fills DAMIKT).
|12-09-2015 08:08 AM|
|herrwood||That is a nice setup and sound like it does a great job plus with the unit in the attic its quiet. When I saw the vac hose I thought had configured a collection box for the saw. Never thought about just running hose along the bottom like you did will give it a try. I get most of the top dust by having a dust collector hose near the top of the saw but hose seemed a little too big to fit on the bottom with out rigging something up and I do not do a lot of scroll saw work. I just do it for fun no selling, I like that with the scroll saw I can complete a project quickly.|
|12-08-2015 10:31 PM|
Originally Posted by herrwood View Post
There's not much to take a picture of. The photo that shows the vacuum hose along the side of my DeWalt 788 shows almost all there is to see. The hose is resting across the top of the power strip that's attached to the left side of the rear leg of my saw.The standard vacuum cleaner metal hose end is just tie wrapped to the sheet metal mechanism guard under the saw table. There's no collection fittings or shroud around the lower arm of my saw at all. The vacuum velocity is enough to pull the saw dust from under the table without doing anything else (if I remember to start the vacuum). I could post a photo of the standard metal end of the vacuum hose, but I doubt that the black tie wrap would even show up in the photo. My vacuum picks up almost all of the under table saw dust with the hose end just held near the lower blade mechanism. I wish I could think of a good way to do the same thing above the table of my saw. Every ornament or reindeer that I cut leaves a bunch of saw dust on the table top.
Several years ago they totally rebuilt the house next door to me. I mean they gutted the whole thing. Only the framing, outside walls and roof were left of the original house before they began putting it back together totally new inside. One day during this tear out work I saw the owner carrying the house central vacuum across the lawn toward the dumpster and I asked him if I could have it. He brought it over to my shop. Then he went back and climbed down into the dumpster and got me the 25' hose and all of the accessory fittings for it. Over the next few days all of the PVC vacuum pipes and wall outlets also found their way over to my shop.
I fixed the vacuum (bad control transformer) and cleaned it up with a plan to put it in my shop. It had incredible suction and my shop is small, so I thought that it would be ideal for collecting sanding sawdust, scroll saw dust, drill press dust, etc. I knew it wouldn't be big enough to collect the saw dust from my Unisaw or planer, but I thought that if it just picked up the fine sawdust and helped me clean the floor that it would be worth having.
The fabric filter in it proved to be way too small for collecting fine saw dust. It was just a loose fabric bag permanently attached inside just above the bottom collection container and it plugged quickly from saw dust, so I didn't permanently install the vacuum, but I did occasionally use it to vacuum the shop floor.
This past Spring a friend was closing his commercial wood shop and he offered me an Oneida Dust Deputy. It's a small plastic vortex type filter intended to be used with a shop vacuum. The dust is separated out of the air and drops into a 5 gallon can below the Dust Deputy. Only relatively clean air goes into the shop vacuum.
I hooked it up to my shop vacuum and then used it to vacuum about 4 1/2 gallons of sawdust out of the bottom of my Unisaw. Then I vacuumed the floor. When I opened the shop vacuum it was 99%+ empty. Almost totally clean. I immediately knew that this filter had to be installed on that whole house central vacuum that I had.
I installed the central vacuum unit on the wall in my shop's attic with the Dust Deputy mounted to the lid of the 5 gallon bucket sitting next to it. I drilled holes and ran the PVC vacuum pipe around my shop and placed one inlet port on each floor and one through the wall to the outside next to the shop door so that I could vacuum the cars and my truck with it too. Then I installed big open sided hooks across my shop ceiling so that I could easily route the vacuum hose across the ceiling in several different directions to the different machines that I would be using it with, and also to my work bench. I routed the exhaust pipe from the vacuum out through the attic wall near where the vacuum was mounted. Even if the filters miss some real fine dust it will never get back into my shop. I had to buy some additional pipe and fittings, but was able to use most of what had been given to me. For less than $150 including the $35 that I gave for the Dust Deputy the installation was complete.
With the vacuum fully installed it was time to test it. Again, I cleaned out the Unisaw, but it was still almost empty. Then I cleaned the rest of the tools and then the floor. All was working great until I accidentally plugged the end of the hose. A few seconds later I heard a loud wumph from the attic. I went up there and found that the 5 gallon plastic dust pail had imploded. It was now triangle shaped. My shop vacuum never did that to the bucket. What suction that central vacuum unit has!!!
So I needed a metal barrel for my vacuum system, but I couldn't find one small enough to fit up the pull down attic stairway to my shop attic. My son said he would try to find me a 30 gallon metal grease barrel, but that was going to take him some time to find. Then I realized that my plastic buckets (Firehouse Subs Pickle Buckets) had ribs running around the top 4" inches of them to reinforce the open end of the bucket, and the one that collapsed had only done so in the thin lower areas of the bucket sides. I then realized that by stacking 3 buckets together, the top bucket would have these ribs all the way to the bottom of it and the lower walls of these other buckets would reinforce the top bucket to make it 3 times as thick.
I'm still using my vacuum with the 3 buckets stacked for strength and no more implosions have occurred, but my son has found me one of those small 30 gallon metal grease barrels. I'll make a plywood lid for it and attach the Dust Deputy sometime early next year when my life slows down a little. I've got more Christmas presents to make right now, and my central vacuum is doing exactly what I wanted it for. Several times since installing it I have opened the bottom of the central vacuum and there's never been anything at all in it and I've had to dump the top 5 gallon bucket 3 times so far. The central vacuum with the Dust Deputy attached is working perfectly.
A picture under the table of my saw won't help much, but here are a couple of photos of my central vacuum, the stacked buckets and the Dust Deputy up in the attic of my shop. At the time that I took the photos I hadn't finished the exhaust piping on the right. Even pictures of the imploded bucket are included.
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