Cutting curves - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 05:12 PM
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A spiral will do a smoother job but they are twice the money of a straight bit and there are 3 types of spirals. One is an upcut design. It will leave a smoother edge on the bottom side of what you are routing. Next is a downcut design which leaves the top edge smoother. Third is a compression bit with the bottom spiraling up and the top spiraling down. It's the most expensive. https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/...im-spiral-bits

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post #12 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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I did not realize that there are just a few 3/8" shank router bits, Whiteside website shows only 6 with 3/8" shanks and there are no spiral bits, just straight bits. I will have to decide between the Whiteside #1035 straight bit 3/8"SH, 3/8"CD, 1"CL for around $14 and the Amana 45400 2-flute for $16.

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post #13 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 456GTM View Post
I did not realize that there are just a few 3/8" shank router bits, Whiteside website shows only 6 with 3/8" shanks and there are no spiral bits, just straight bits. I will have to decide between the Whiteside #1035 straight bit 3/8"SH, 3/8"CD, 1"CL for around $14 and the Amana 45400 2-flute for $16.

Horacio
Woah, hang on there a minute Horacio. According to the specs on your router, it uses 1/4 inch shank router bits. Whatever you buy needs to have a 1/4 inch shank. I am not sure where the 3/8 inch came from. Maybe you fat fingered the typing like I do sometimes, or got confused.

Your router is a compact model and may not work with large diameter cutters. Before you order, post a link so the guys can confirm for you. I would hate to see you get something you couldn't use.

Makita 1-1/4 HP Compact Router Kit RT0701CX3 | Acme Tools

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post #14 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 07:08 PM
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post #15 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 07:33 PM
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I would use a top bearing mount router bit like I have linked to.
Then you only need to make a template of 1/2 of your drawing. I have attached a drawing of your drawing with additional dimensions.

Prepare your template like the one in the video.

Draw your template on your work piece. Then cut away the waste with the jig saw leaving just a little bit for the router to clean up. Attach your template to the top of your work piece with double sided tape and follow the template with the router bearing riding along the template.

And by all means, clamp your work piece if at all possible so it won't move and create an unsafe working condition for you.

Hope this helps.
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Mike, thanks much for taking the time to guide me through this, I will follow your advice and will post pictures later.

Cheers,

Horacio
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Regarding my jig saw [discontinued Bosch 1584 AVSK] I think that I have been using 0 as the wrong orbit setting. According to the owners manual I should use setting III for soft materials such as wood or plastic [my project uses 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood]. Blade is a Bosch T101AO. Let's see how it goes.

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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 04:15 PM
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Firstly I don't see what is wrong in making a curve template in 12mm (1/2in) MR-MDF using the router with a straight 2-flute cutter and a home-made trammel guide. A trammel guide is little more than a piece of 12mm MR-MDF with the router screwed to one end and a screw or pin through the other to act as a pivot point. You'd need two pieces. If those two pieces were then fixed onto another piece of 12mm MR-MDF the two straight end cuts could be made on a table saw or mitre saw and the radius edges routed using a top-bearing straight template trim bit in the router. That would give you the template for copy routing - again the top bearing bit would be used for that. In all cases it is highly advisable to hog away the majority of the waste using either a jig saw or a bnd saw to reduce the load on both the router and its' cutter. Personally I'd be leary of using spiral cutters in the RT0700C because they have small collets and I'd be concerned about cutter pull-out/push-in on 18mm (3/4in) deep copy routing passes. I'd also turn the speed down to about 25,000 rpm

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
Woah, hang on there a minute Horacio. According to the specs on your router, it uses 1/4 inch shank router bits. Whatever you buy needs to have a 1/4 inch shank. I am not sure where the 3/8 inch came from. Maybe you fat fingered the typing like I do sometimes, or got confused.
The RT0700/0701 in several markets is supplied with both 1/4in and 3/8in collets (certainly is in the UK). Documented in the manual. 6mm and 8mm are also available

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Your router is a compact model and may not work with large diameter cutters.
The collets are actually very small so that really limits you to a cutter of no more than about 12mm (1/2in) and to avoid excessive vibration on bigger cutters it is highly advisable to reduce the running speed to about "5"

"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

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Last edited by Job and Knock; 02-05-2018 at 04:20 PM.
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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 456GTM View Post
Regarding my jig saw [discontinued Bosch 1584 AVSK] I think that I have been using 0 as the wrong orbit setting. According to the owners manual I should use setting III for soft materials such as wood or plastic [my project uses 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood]. Blade is a Bosch T101AO. Let's see how it goes.
The T101AO is designed for thinner materials and my experience of it is that 18mm (3/4in) is kind of pushing it and that adding high orbit (III) is only going to make for a poorer cut and give you lots of breakages. I'd say better to go for a T244D with zero orbit as that will give a faster cut on even extreme curves, albeit a little ragged at the edges - not that it matters as you are only roughing out and the router cutter will smooth the rest

"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

"I too will something make, And joy in the making" - Robert Bridges, 1844~1930
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