Router Base Center line???? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 10:55 PM
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Here's a copy of the opening page on the DIY crosshair baseplate...
(I'm sure Mr. Hylton won't mind; I'm promoting his book! )
Which of Hylotn's book is this page taken from"
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 12:35 AM
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Charles; he discusses the purpose in the clip I posted. Basically if you do a light pencil layout on your work piece ...obviously at 90deg to each other, and long enough that you can see the lines though the clear baseplate, you can bore precise holes.
The lines on the baseplate are scribed on the bottom of it so there's no parallax issue.

Tom; https://www.amazon.com/Router-Magic-.../dp/0762101857

I'm not saying everyone needs one, I'm just responding to the OP's question.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 07:29 AM
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Without having the book to be able to read the complete article...................

This is the way I've done it

- Square up the blank and scribe the lines on the bottom surface

- Bore a 1/4" diameter hole at the intersection of the scribed lines

- Chuck a piece of 1/4" dowel rod in the router, remove the original base plate and assemble to the base plate using the 1/4" dowel to center the router.

- After orienting the router relative to the edges of the base plate, mark the centers of the mounting holes (I have cone point setscrews to match the tapped holes in the router base). Also, match-mark the router base to the base plate so that it can be reassembled in the same orientation.

- Drill and countersink the holes in the new base plate, open up the center hole as required.

You now have a router where the spindle is located on the intersection of the scribed lines on the bottom of the base plate.
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Last edited by tomp913; 11-16-2018 at 09:04 AM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 10:31 AM
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Charles; he discusses the purpose in the clip I posted. Basically if you do a light pencil layout on your work piece ...obviously at 90deg to each other, and long enough that you can see the lines though the clear baseplate, you can bore precise holes.
The lines on the baseplate are scribed on the bottom of it so there's no parallax issue.

Tom; https://www.amazon.com/Router-Magic-.../dp/0762101857

I'm not saying everyone needs one, I'm just responding to the OP's question.
I don't use a router to drill holes so I had not considered that possibility. Thanks Dan.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 10:48 AM
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If the item was too large (wide) to get under the drill press, this might be a good solution. Especially if one only had a bench top type DP.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 08:31 AM
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If you desire a centerline on a router base for drilling holes vertically and at precise points where a drill press can’t be used then I would think something like this would be easier. I use this with my Kreg stepped drill bit for holes where I want to use pocket screws, but this design could easily be adapted for use with brad point bits of various sizes as well as forstner bits if they have the same size shanks (so you don’t need a separate jig for every size). These bits all have a pilot point enabling you to place the tip at a precise point you have marked on the wood. You’d have to customize the jig width and depth to allow for visibility below the bit during setup, proper height for the length of the bit and plunge depth needed, and stability to keep it standing vertically in use. I use stop collars on my bit to control depth so I don’t overdrill. I have used the heck out of this thing and it’s super easy to do and very accurate.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 02:02 PM
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If you desire a centerline on a router base for drilling holes vertically and at precise points where a drill press canít be used then I would think something like this would be easier. I use this with my Kreg stepped drill bit for holes where I want to use pocket screws, but this design could easily be adapted for use with brad point bits of various sizes as well as forstner bits if they have the same size shanks (so you donít need a separate jig for every size). These bits all have a pilot point enabling you to place the tip at a precise point you have marked on the wood. Youíd have to customize the jig width and depth to allow for visibility below the bit during setup, proper height for the length of the bit and plunge depth needed, and stability to keep it standing vertically in use. I use stop collars on my bit to control depth so I donít overdrill. I have used the heck out of this thing and itís super easy to do and very accurate.
What a great little jig. You're right about the DP being too small to use on wide pieces. I have a couple of metal drill guides, but they're pretty light duty. I wonder if I can drill holes into the jig the right size to fit those metal guides? Gotta check my Forstner set for the correct size. Looks like a couple of hours in the shop to make it.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 02:30 PM
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What a great little jig. You're right about the DP being too small to use on wide pieces. I have a couple of metal drill guides, but they're pretty light duty. I wonder if I can drill holes into the jig the right size to fit those metal guides? Gotta check my Forstner set for the correct size. Looks like a couple of hours in the shop to make it.
The metal guides are 1/2" by 20 thread. You can thread wood with a metal tap but you could go with a friction fit too. You might have to go 1/64th under 1/2 to get a good enough fit. If you are going to try tapping a hole so that you could change sizes then the tap hole is generally 1/16th inch smaller than the thread size for 1/4 to 1/2" sizes.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 04:01 PM
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Another way to go, use a nylon or bronze flanged bushing, one at each end of the hole if you feel you need the additional support.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/it...SABEgK4yPD_BwE
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-31-2018, 10:31 AM
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I have one of these (see link).

I don't use it often, but when I do it is usually the only way that I have to get precise holes drilled that are located too far from the edge of the work for any of my drill presses to handle. With the possible exception of drilling shelf pin holes, I can't see a router being a very good choice for drilling holes, mostly because you can't use any size drill bit in it. It goes too fast for most drilling needs as well. The drill guide in the link has cross hair marks, a pair of V guides for drilling the center of round stock, a good depth stop, and it can be set for angle drilling. It's a great way to make a hand held drill more accurate, and you can easily see the bit and the location marks on the work.

Charley

https://www.generaltools.com/hand-to...h-3-8-in-chuck

Central North Carolina

Last edited by CharleyL; 12-31-2018 at 10:33 AM.
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