Don't have a planer. Do have a router. - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-22-2019, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Is is possible to have a Friday the 13th on a Monday the 20th? On Sunday I routed the back side of the board except for the last inch. Yesterday I took my table saw to the the warehouse to shave off the last inch or so. Once adjusted, I ran it slowly through the saw and thought I was done. I layed the board face up and discovered I now had a scratch that ran the entire length, right through the center of the good side. This is a Makita 8 1/4 inch portable table saw. Many years ago, I added a 1/4 inch by 3 inch piece of aluminum to the fence. Makita's fence is a formed metal one. It had a bow in it and the thick aluminum made the fence taller, straighter and touched the table well enough that I could run thin materials like Formica through the saw without it creeping under the fence.
Without knowing it, the top corner of the aluminum fence got hit by something and was distorted somehow in transit. That's what caused the scratch in the board.
The warehouse fella mentioned a place almost across the street. I had no idea who he was or what he did, but drove over there with the board. He had a planer. Yahoo! Wish I'd know it earlier. Our little town doesn't have a cabinet shop on every corner. He made two passes taking off a very tiny amount and saved my bacon. The fella does cabinets and anything wood. He even has a small stockpile of wood. I'm sorta glad I messed up. Now I have another source of help when I find a new project that's beyond my abilities.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 03:35 PM
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Randy...might this have been a good application for an oscillating tool (like the FEIN) and do plunge cuts...?

There's always a next time...
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-23-2019, 07:37 PM
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A router planer is the way to go.Ensure that the router bit is good quality as that will be surface you are left with. I use a Whiteside surfacing bit, not super expensive. I flatten laminated thin wood panes with it and can cut a skim or heavier. Purple heart and the planer were not friends. There are several variations on line. Being frugal I used MDF for table and 1 1/4 angle iron from orange store. I stopped at a dollar type store and bought a plastic cutting board, cut 2 1/8 slot in it and that is what the router slide bed rides one.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Randy...might this have been a good application for an oscillating tool (like the FEIN) and do plunge cuts...?

There's always a next time...
I wasn't born yesterday. That's what I used........... my mostest favorite tool ever. I clamped a carpenters square to the left side if the cabinet and used a very fine, Fein blade for the cut. I went slow and easy and it made a great cut. It ended up at a 1 or 2 degree back angle, so I just cut the repair section with the same angle.
The cut is centered between the lower hinge screws. A door trim molding covers another 3/8 of an inch of that seam.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the before and after. The new piece looks lighter in the photo than it does in person, but it matched the rotten piece I removed............. and that's what we matched it too. The pieces in the repaired image are just fitted, not installed yet. I still have to spline where all the edges meet.
Just found out today the cabinet my have to be removed to do plumbing work. I don't want the new pieces to get boogered up from a "bull in a china closet" type plumber manhandling the cabinet when he pulls it out of the wall.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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A router planer is the way to go.Ensure that the router bit is good quality as that will be surface you are left with. I use a Whiteside surfacing bit, not super expensive. I flatten laminated thin wood panes with it and can cut a skim or heavier. Purple heart and the planer were not friends. There are several variations on line. Being frugal I used MDF for table and 1 1/4 angle iron from orange store. I stopped at a dollar type store and bought a plastic cutting board, cut 2 1/8 slot in it and that is what the router slide bed rides one.
Had to look it up to know what a router planer was. I've seen a couple of them, just didn't know what they were called.
Lot's of designs out there. My problem would be what design and how large I'd need it to be. My shop is a carport, so anything wood will warp. It would need to be small enough to be stored indoors and could be set up on sawhorses if that's possible.
Thanks for bringing that up, Steve.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 02:34 AM
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Some of us call that a router sled. I built one that was about 4' across and 8' long once so that I could flatten the top of the bench I built out of laminated 2 x lumber. If you get wide enough, like I did, then you need to reinforce the cross piece of the sled with sides to keep it rigid enough to prevent deflection, basically a U shaped box.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ranman View Post
I wasn't born yesterday. That's what I used........... my mostest favorite tool ever. I clamped a carpenters square to the left side if the cabinet and used a very fine, Fein blade for the cut. I went slow and easy and it made a great cut. It ended up at a 1 or 2 degree back angle, so I just cut the repair section with the same angle.
The cut is centered between the lower hinge screws. A door trim molding covers another 3/8 of an inch of that seam.

GO PLUNGE CUTS...! ! ! ! !

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Some of us call that a router sled. I built one that was about 4' across and 8' long once so that I could flatten the top of the bench I built out of laminated 2 x lumber. If you get wide enough, like I did, then you need to reinforce the cross piece of the sled with sides to keep it rigid enough to prevent deflection, basically a U shaped box.
I was looking at different setups with google image search. I noticed the larger beefier setups for wide stuff. Be it large or small, I never saw any hold downs for the work pieces. I know there must be some.
If you have something large and excessively warped are there bits to "hog out" material until it's flat enough for a finish cut? I've never heard of bits for planing with a router, so this is a bit new to me.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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GO PLUNGE CUTS...! ! ! ! !
I bought my Fein for one job... and never regretted it. I was asked to remove an overlapping transition on a brand new wood floor install and replace it with a flush mount tapered (teardrop) reducer. I used a 3/16" thick aluminum angle as my guide to straighten out the entire 60 inch width of end cuts. ...the cut was straight enough to butt the new molding to. It instantly became my favorite tool. Doing it over again, I'd have done it differently, using the Fein for just the beginning and end of the cut. But anyhow, I was impressed and I use it every couple of days for something.
I especially like the J-bend cutter for removing the butyl caulking from between the planks on the teak deck of my 400 foot yacht.
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