Don't have a planer. Do have a router.
I'm replacing the lower part of a cabinet in a bathroom. Most cabinets have a toe-kick, but this one has a rail and stile touching the floor, so the face frame is even/flush from top to bottom.
The left side of the rail and 6 inches of the stile were rotted out from a bathtub that's probably been slowly leaking for 50 years. ..........drip.......................drip......... .............drip.......................drip.
So I broke out/removed the 30 inch by 5 inch high floor level part of the cabinet that was rotted. I also cut out 6 inched of the rotted left stile.
I can use the good portion of the original rotted rail section to fill in the little stile that I cut off........... Most of the 1 1/2" wide by 7 inch long rail seam will be be 1/2 way between the lower hinge so pretty much invisible.
I bought a board long enough to make up the rail portion. It's 1/32nd or more thicker than the original material, meaning it's not going to butt perfectly flush with the cabinet's rails.
What's that song.......... if I had a planer, ...........I'd planer in the morning, I'd planer in the evening........... OK, I don't have or have access to one.
I'm looking for ideas if there are any suggestions, better than my own thoughts. I figure using a 1/2" bit to remove the additional thickness. I'm thinking of using a guide and starting at one side, and just make pass after pass until the router isn't stable as I approach the opposite side.
From there, I can remove the rest with my table saw.
I also suppose I can cut the first part with my table saw too, and then use the router for the middle section.
Mt table saw is an old Makita portable, not a stationary cabinet makers 12 inch saw. If I had that, I'd make my fix in two passes.
Any enlightenment? Basically, I'm removing 1/32 second or so from a birch board that's about 6X32 inches. Pass after pass with a 1/2 inch bit seems to be my idea.
Last edited by ranman; 01-18-2019 at 11:24 PM.