Don't have a planer. Do have a router. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Default Don't have a planer. Do have a router.

I'm replacing the lower part of a cabinet in a bathroom. Most cabinets have a toe-kick, but this one has a rail and stile touching the floor, so the face frame is even/flush from top to bottom.
The left side of the rail and 6 inches of the stile were rotted out from a bathtub that's probably been slowly leaking for 50 years. ..........drip.......................drip......... .............drip.......................drip.
So I broke out/removed the 30 inch by 5 inch high floor level part of the cabinet that was rotted. I also cut out 6 inched of the rotted left stile.
I can use the good portion of the original rotted rail section to fill in the little stile that I cut off........... Most of the 1 1/2" wide by 7 inch long rail seam will be be 1/2 way between the lower hinge so pretty much invisible.
I bought a board long enough to make up the rail portion. It's 1/32nd or more thicker than the original material, meaning it's not going to butt perfectly flush with the cabinet's rails.
What's that song.......... if I had a planer, ...........I'd planer in the morning, I'd planer in the evening........... OK, I don't have or have access to one.
I'm looking for ideas if there are any suggestions, better than my own thoughts. I figure using a 1/2" bit to remove the additional thickness. I'm thinking of using a guide and starting at one side, and just make pass after pass until the router isn't stable as I approach the opposite side.
From there, I can remove the rest with my table saw.
I also suppose I can cut the first part with my table saw too, and then use the router for the middle section.
Mt table saw is an old Makita portable, not a stationary cabinet makers 12 inch saw. If I had that, I'd make my fix in two passes.
Any enlightenment? Basically, I'm removing 1/32 second or so from a birch board that's about 6X32 inches. Pass after pass with a 1/2 inch bit seems to be my idea.
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Last edited by ranman; 01-18-2019 at 11:24 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 02:50 AM
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Randy, Do you have a belt sander, or access to one? You can rent them from rental houses.

Can you rip the board on edge on the table saw, and raise the blade in several passes til it is full height? Do this on first side the flip it over rip, raise the blade repeat, do it as many times as it takes to raise the blade all the way up. You will then have a rib left down the middle .
Take and lay boards down each side ,that are the same thickness of the original board for the router to ride on, and set the depth of the end cutter bit to your saw cut and run down the board trimming the center waste out.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 07:13 AM
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Randy, what tools do you have? That would help us solve the problem.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 07:32 AM
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You might need to borrow Harry's skis.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 08:08 AM
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Router sled.
Lots of you tube videos using everything from angle iron to top quality wood. i used a piece of surplus MDF with the router mounted central and an old kitchen floor tile as the bed, with some bits of chipboard upstands.
Cost about a dollar and will smooth good enough that the wood only needs a final sanding.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 08:16 AM
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As Herb said try to get hold of a belt sander. If you can't find one then any sander will work if you use coarse paper and spend a little time. But why not just build a whole new cabinet? I posted a picture yesterday of one I build for about $30 dollars and did it in less than a day. I'm guessing that you will spend several hours trying to fix yours and in the end you will have a repaired 50 year old cabinet.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Herb, the Makita saw has an 8 inch blade, and being a portable saw (1989 era) the fence isn't ideal for ripping something that tall. The wood is heavy and hard, not sure what kind. maple, ash birch? The accuracy of the cut is only needed on 3 edges mostly, where they make contact with the cabinet frame. the two sides only need accurate thickness for 3/4 of am inch. ......well, pretty much for the top side to. The rest can be hogged out with an axe or rocks........ No need to be pretty nor accurate for most of the board. just 3/4" or so on the edges.
The center of the board needs to be close to the same thickness as the edges, but again, the center doesn't need to be pretty. This cutting is done on the back of the board.
I have a PC router, and a PC offset laminate trimmer. The offset with a wing bit makes for a good alignment tool by using it as a biscuit jointer.
I have a belt sander too, but that could mess up the edges. I could use it in the center of the board to clean up any high spots.

Last edited by ranman; 01-19-2019 at 11:35 AM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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The entire cabinet is made of 3/4" plywood except the backing panel that's 3/8". It's 80 or so inches tall and has four 3/4 inch plywood doors and 4 shelves. It's too tall to remove from the bathroom with the door casing in place. This is just a repair... in a rental.

Last edited by ranman; 01-19-2019 at 11:44 AM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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This is going to be a 45 minute one time job. It will take longer to set up my portable table at the warehouse and get my tools and extension cords ready
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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I hand held the router and did all but the last inch. I'll take my table saw to the warehouse tomorrow and take off the last inch, then dance over it with the belt sander where needed. The board is about 3/4 of an inch wider than the rotten face I tore out, so I'm good. I'll trim and fit in pieces in place once I get the new flooring installed and the cabinet fastened back to the wall opening.
To get the color match we tried orange shellac. Just that alone was almost dead on. The paint place said they could put a sealer over the shellac, so the polyurethane would bond.
Orange Shellac is waxed. I saw someone use that on a woodworking show and before the top coat, they wiped the dry finish coat of shellac with something to remove the wax............. I can't remember what it was. Acetone?
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