Paddle/safety style on/off switch rated for PC 7518 - Page 3 - Router Forums
 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 11:16 AM
Registered User
 
sreilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Country: United States
First Name: Steve
Posts: 931
 
sreilly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 12:17 PM
Registered User
 
vchiarelli's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Vince
Posts: 3,456
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sreilly View Post
Not sure I've ever seen a residential 200 amp panel with 80 circuits. I have seen plenty of 40 space 80 circuit panels but those allow use of tandem breakers. My SqD 200 amp main panel has 40 spaces but is not approved for tandem breakers so I added a sub-panel.

I added a sub-panel for the observatory feeding it with a 60 amp line not that it needed that much but I also keep the camper plugged in so that's 15 max in itself. Everything else, computer, mount, focuser, CCD camera w/8 position filter wheel, dew heaters, roof drive system (3 ph using an AC motor controller), lights and receptacles (including 2 GFI) probably take less than 5 amps. But the GFI's can take a full 20 amp load if needed. You never know. The sub-panel in the observatory is 20 space of which I'm using 10. More is better and cost is usually less for the more common sizes. I think a 16 space was more money as it's not as popular.

For those looking to replace or add on to your panels, look for national brands and see if they are approved to take tandem breakers. A tandem breaker is usually a dual 115 volt 15 or 20 amp double breaker (2 switches) that fits in a single space. It can get you out of a pinch sometimes. But do not attempt to use one in a panel not approved because there is s very good reason for that and you leave yourself wide open to insurance issues should you ever have problems. And insurance companies love to find reasons to decline a claim.
Steve: I should have clarified. The panel is a Siemens and has 40 slots, but is approved for the tandem breakers, so in essence, 80.

Some folks call me Vince - other folks call me...........
vchiarelli is offline  
post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 12:23 PM
Registered User
 
sreilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Country: United States
First Name: Steve
Posts: 931
 
Default

Appreciate that Vince, I thought I had missed a major change in panels.
vchiarelli likes this.
sreilly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 09:45 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,857
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TenGees View Post
I've found that light switches don't last on high start-up current things. A soft-start router probably doesn't have the same start-up surge as an older tool might, though. On my table, I put a switch like the pic below. The 2 pole ones are the same price as a single pole. If you use one pole only you have a spare pole if you burn one set of contacts. Or... you could bridge the contacts and it will likely last longer.

That switch is 2 pole, 20 amps, 2 HP (about C$10 at Busy Bee Tools). I believe routers are rated at some other (somewhat exaggerated?) type of HP.

It would be hard to trip those switches accidentally as you have to pull the flap up. I mounted mine so that the router plug is accessible from the back of the metal box.
How did you go about mounting it Paul? It doesn't look like it's meant to attach in a standard electrical box which was one of the considerations I went with when I was looking for a switch. I wanted it to be in a dust proof enclosure.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 19
 
Default

Guys thanks, somehow I didn't have the reminder set that there were responses to this question, so I missed all this.

Anyways, this is the switch I've been running and am sorta dedicated to it since I cut the hole in my custom router table. It's rated for 2hp but up to 35 amps which is crazy since the PC doesn't draw anywhere near that and operates on a standard 15a circuit. This switch won't last with the PC 7518, or at least that's my experience since I've now been through 2 of them.

Hoping for this style but heavier duty on a 110v circuit.
Poplarguy is offline  
post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 11:22 AM
Registered User
 
TenGees's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Paul
Posts: 1,493
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
How did you go about mounting it Paul? It doesn't look like it's meant to attach in a standard electrical box which was one of the considerations I went with when I was looking for a switch. I wanted it to be in a dust proof enclosure.
Charles, I cut out a rectangle on the back of a regular (exposed style) metal box and drilled the switch mounting holes smaller than the sheet metal screws, so that I didn't need to fiddle with nuts (there's little room beside the switch for fingers/tools). Then I put a plug and cover on the 'front' of the box. With the box mounted 'backwards' under the table. When parts shopping, if you have a choice of boxes, pick a deeper/bigger one. If I remember correctly I had to bend the tangs on the switch for clearance of the socket body. You can see it on my table 'here'.
Cherryville Chuck likes this.

Sent from my Hallicrafters S-40 using morse code.
TenGees is offline  
post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 11:42 AM
Registered User
 
TenGees's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Paul
Posts: 1,493
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poplarguy View Post
...It's rated for 2hp but up to 35 amps which is crazy since the PC doesn't draw anywhere near that and operates on a standard 15a circuit. This switch won't last with the PC 7518, or at least that's my experience since I've now been through 2 of them.

Hoping for this style but heavier duty on a 110v circuit.
There's a current surge when starting inductive loads (motors, ballasts, transformers etc.). It can be very high but momentary. That's probably causing a spark in the contacts of the switch. The spark burns the contacts a little each time you turn it on. I believe the soft-start on some tools reduces this problem. If you can find a 2-pole switch with the same specs as yours, you may have better luck by bridging the poles. Kinda doubling the capacity of the switch.

Sent from my Hallicrafters S-40 using morse code.

Last edited by TenGees; 06-10-2019 at 11:45 AM.
TenGees is offline  
post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 06:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 24
 
Default

I made one for old 110 volt Unisaw.
Mounted a 20 amp wall switch in a box, mounted under fence rail facing down. Wood frame aaround the box and switch, with a flat wood slide, with a hole in it, fir the switch toggle.
Mounted a hinged wood paddle to push the slide, to shut off.
Has worked good for 10 +/- years.
Actually built it, because, I needed a paddle switch, that would turn off shop fan, when Unisaw came on. 15 amp. service!
Used 2 switches in a duplex box. 1 turned on as the other turned off.
Pirate is offline  
post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Country: United States
First Name: ben
Posts: 67
 
Default

I have the PC 7518 router and use the Jessem paddle switch (https://jessem.com/collections/route...-remote-switch). I think I actually purchased the switch from Incra as part of a router package deal. Mine has no external marks to identify it as Jessem but it looks identical to what is shown on the Jessem web site.

On a 2nd router table, I have a Rockler paddle switch and it has worked ok with both PC 890 and PC 6902.

Both paddle switches are setup so I can shut it down with my left knee. The Rockler switch has a much bigger target but the Jessem is ergonomically ok.

For my work style, a dead man switch on the floor would be awkward for longer stock. If it works for you, that is great.
bfblack is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome