Door Edge Treatment (Squaring Edge/Rabbet) - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2020, 06:52 PM
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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2020, 08:02 PM
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Dan,
I understand that is was stated they are temporary, I was just considering pics that places like Rockler that sell these type of casters always seem to show them on the sides. To Prevent any trippings on them.

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-work...ter-kit-4-pack
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Last edited by Flipsaw; 04-25-2020 at 08:03 PM. Reason: added info
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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2020, 08:15 PM
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That's what I said earlier, then had the reasoning explained to me. But yeh, I agree with you. I don't even like the ones on my TS mobile base.
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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-25-2020, 08:21 PM
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Sorry Dan I missed your comment about that.
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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 09:52 AM
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No problem, JJ; it was Saturday, you were off the clock.
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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
No problem, JJ; it was Saturday, you were off the clock.
note to self...
what you read and what it said can be ywo different things...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I'd probably just clamp a straight edge on the door and use a straight bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
for squaring...
use your router as a joiner...
see the PDF...
[B]
The operation of cutting a slot in the edge of the door has received a lot of attention. The other operation, removing the chamfer, has received very limited discussion. I would appreciate more of your thoughts on the chamfer removal question.

I am not sure if using the router as a joiner was directed at this quesiton. If it was, I do not have a feasible way of handling the door to run it over my router table to remove the chamfer.

I would like to turn your attention to the method I proposed:

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickKr View Post
...snip...
I am thinking the edge squaring might be doable in a two-stage operation. First would be with a bearing guided bit with a bearing that is slightly smaller in diameter than the router cutter diameter reaching to about the centerline. Second stage would be to put the full diameter bearing on the bit and run it along the opposite side to bring it to flush with the first edge side. I have two bearing guided bits that could be used, 7/8x1-1/2" (1/2" shank) and 1/2x1" (1/4" shank). I do not know the bearing IDs, but I believe that can be dealt with. Both are used, not perfectly sharp, with the larger one being more dull.
...snip...
I misstated the size of the larger bearing guided bit above. It is 3/4" dia. x 1-1/2" long. The bearing shaft size is 1/4". In my collection of bearings, I have found a 5/8" dia. bearing that fits that can be securely mounted on this bit (had to use a shorter SHCS). This looks quite promising, as it provides a 1/16" depth of cut from the cutter flutes to the bearing OD (see photo).

But... the body of the cutter, that behind the carbide flutes, is a bit proud of the bearing. Bearing OD 0.625", bit body 0.0640". While it is tempting to give this a try, on some scrap, it seems to me it will result, at best, in burning of the wood behind the cut as the bit body bears on the cut surface and the bearing will never come into play. I have looked briefly for bearings of odd sizes that might work, but have not found anything with an OD between 5/8" and 3/4" except metric and the ID is too small, 6mm (0.236").

Is my sense of this combination/situation correct and it is not a good idea/will not work? Or are the flutes deep enough (about 0.200") to cut away enough material that the bearing will actually ride and guide and the trailing body behind the flutes will not drag?

So, assuming the above is not a go, what other methods are available, in addition to those suggested in the quotes above, please?

Thanks,

Rick
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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Default Belay That

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickKr View Post
...snip...
But... the body of the cutter, that behind the carbide flutes, is a bit proud of the bearing. Bearing OD 0.625", bit body 0.0640". While it is tempting to give this a try, on some scrap, it seems to me it will result, at best, in burning of the wood behind the cut as the bit body bears on the cut surface and the bearing will never come into play. I have looked briefly for bearings of odd sizes that might work, but have not found anything with an OD between 5/8" and 3/4" except metric and the ID is too small, 6mm (0.236").

Is my sense of this combination/situation correct and it is not a good idea/will not work? Or are the flutes deep enough (about 0.200") to cut away enough material that the bearing will actually ride and guide and the trailing body behind the flutes will not drag?

So, assuming the above is not a go, what other methods are available, in addition to those suggested in the quotes above, please?

Thanks,

Rick
Belay That! Works beautifully. No burning. 0.060" deep cut. Nice sharp corner. Fully removes the chamfer. 'Tis a go.

I'll run this around the whole door and then switch back to the full sized bearing and finish the other side.

Rick
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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 12:22 PM
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If you laid the door wide face up the 1 1/2 length of cutter would leave 1/4" on the botom edge uncut. so you would still have to find a flush cutter to cut the other edge 1/4"of edge flush. You could hand plane it or switch to a bit that has a bearing the is the same dia as the cutters and flop the door over and use the bearing to guide on th last cut.

Or you could forget about truing up the bevel on the door edge and rip the edge trim piece on a 1/16" bevel and use a spline for a T&G on both door and edge trim. In that case I would rip the piece square,cut the slot ,then re-rip it at 1/16" to match the door edge.
The bevels on the edges of the door were to originally to keep the door from binding when closing. My self I would rip the door edges square on the table saw, (2 man operation) then apply the edges.
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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 04-26-2020, 12:44 PM
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I like your design a lot. Simple but solid. I would suggest the following to make it even sweeter.

Straight edge for flattening the door edge, yup. But I'd cut a half inch spline on door and edging first. I'd do a spline joint, not a Tongue and Groove (see diagram below). Cut both table and edging at the same time, face up so they line up accurately when you glue them up. With a piece that long, you might need to use clamps top and bottom to account for any slight warp in the side pieces. But a spline can be deeper and if it is crossgrain, it will be far stronger than a tongue and groove, which is a with-the-grain joint. Even though you glue the T&G, you will be clamping on that joint so you want cross grain for the maximum strength. Beside that , the spline groove can be deeper than the T&G is wide, for an even stronger joint. Glue will then make it essentially one solid piece.

I would also consider adding a 1/4 layer of high density fiberboard (HDF/Masonite) to the top, screwed in place with a few countersunk flathead screws so it's replaceable. The top takes the abuse and when it's beaten up it can be replaced easily. Don't countersink too deep, and don't glue it in place!

Cut the HDF a bit oversized and use a trim bit to fit it exactly to the table. If you're cutting dog holes in the door, cut the holes through the door and replaceable top first. When you replace the top, attach the replacement HDF (masonite) to the top first, then drill through the existing dog holes through to the HDF. Put sacrifical pieces under the door to drill into to avoid chipping the HDF.

Wax the heck out of the HDF and polish it with a drill and buffer. The more you buff it, the harder the wax will become. Some folks might use MDF for the replaceable top, but spill something that cuts the wax, or after the wax wears thin, then a spill liquid on it and it will swell and no longer be flat.

Are you using a hardwood for the edge? If I were doing this, I'd consider adding a strip all round the underside to fit it to the legs and apron. Turn the top and table upside down, fit, say 1x1.5 inch hardwood strips to fit the table. Slip pieces of light card stock (playing cards) between the apron and hardwood strips all round to account for expansion, then drill some pilot holes and put four screws through the strips into the table's apron to secure it. That way when you win the lottery and build your dream shop (or move) it will break down easily for transport. If that shop or a vmove is looming, don't glue the short stretchers, just use screws so you can remove them. Your table is already built, so the last is for anyone making the same type of table.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 04-26-2020 at 02:07 PM. Reason: add additional paragraph, missing punctuation
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