Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I'd probably just clamp a straight edge on the door and use a straight bit.
use your router as a joiner...
see the PDF...
The operation of cutting a slot in the edge of the door has received a lot of attention. The other operation, removing the chamfer, has received very limited discussion. I would appreciate more of your thoughts on the chamfer removal question.
I am not sure if using the router as a joiner was directed at this quesiton. If it was, I do not have a feasible way of handling the door to run it over my router table to remove the chamfer.
I would like to turn your attention to the method I proposed:
I am thinking the edge squaring might be doable in a two-stage operation. First would be with a bearing guided bit with a bearing that is slightly smaller in diameter than the router cutter diameter reaching to about the centerline. Second stage would be to put the full diameter bearing on the bit and run it along the opposite side to bring it to flush with the first edge side. I have two bearing guided bits that could be used, 7/8x1-1/2" (1/2" shank) and 1/2x1" (1/4" shank). I do not know the bearing IDs, but I believe that can be dealt with. Both are used, not perfectly sharp, with the larger one being more dull.
I misstated the size of the larger bearing guided bit above. It is 3/4" dia. x 1-1/2" long. The bearing shaft size is 1/4". In my collection of bearings, I have found a 5/8" dia. bearing that fits that can be securely mounted on this bit (had to use a shorter SHCS). This looks quite promising, as it provides a 1/16" depth of cut from the cutter flutes to the bearing OD (see photo).
But... the body of the cutter, that behind the carbide flutes, is a bit proud of the bearing. Bearing OD 0.625", bit body 0.0640". While it is tempting to give this a try, on some scrap, it seems to me it will result, at best, in burning of the wood behind the cut as the bit body bears on the cut surface and the bearing will never come into play. I have looked briefly for bearings of odd sizes that might work, but have not found anything with an OD between 5/8" and 3/4" except metric and the ID is too small, 6mm (0.236").
Is my sense of this combination/situation correct and it is not a good idea/will not work? Or are the flutes deep enough (about 0.200") to cut away enough material that the bearing will actually ride and guide and the trailing body behind the flutes will not drag?
So, assuming the above is not a go, what other methods are available, in addition to those suggested in the quotes above, please?