Floor board repair : female recess/male plug - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
matt1710's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: New Zealand
First Name: Matthew
Posts: 233
 
Default Floor board repair : female recess/male plug

Hi

I have a small section (about 220 x 30mm - or about 9" x 1") of badly damaged floor that needs repairing. I figured the best thing to do was to make a template out of 6mm MDF, and use a pattern cutting bit to cut a shallow recess in the damaged floor board. I then need to glue a 'plug' into the recess.

My question is this :is there a trick to making a matching female/male template - or does the kerf (whether it be saw blade or router bit) always make this impossible to do in one step?

The female recess cut in the floor will clearly have round corners - this in itself might cause a complication when making the male plug. Maybe I'm best just to square up the corners of the recess with a sharp chisel, and then cut a rectangular "plug" a touch too big, and hand plane it to size?

I have attached a picture of the section of the floor in question. The timber is kauri, a softwood native to NZ - and the bora love it, as you can see! Actually, in terms of bora attack, the pictured section of floor is without doubt the worst (by a long way!) in the house - maybe that's why it failed... The house is over 100 years old - so the floor will be too. I wouldn't need to go too deep - maybe 20mm? I've already scanned the section to make sure there are no nails or other metal in there. The boards are joined via T&G.

Matthew
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0204.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	568.5 KB
ID:	44565  


Last edited by matt1710; 06-20-2011 at 07:41 PM.
matt1710 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 08:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Derek
Posts: 5
 
Default

Would something like this not work??

www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtinlay.htm

You would make one template, and use it to route out your floor. Then, you take the spacer ring off the guide bushing and route out your "filler".
telephoneman is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 08:32 PM
Registered User
 
RJM60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Robert
Posts: 655
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt1710 View Post
Hi

My question is this :is there a trick to making a matching female/male template - or does the kerf (whether it be saw blade or router bit) always make this impossible to do in one step?
No trick - just math.

When using a template to cut a hole (i.e. the female part), the offset is equal to half the difference between the guide bushing OD and the bit diameter. The resulting hole width (or diameter) will be twice this amount smaller than the template dimension since the offset goes all the way around. You need to make your template bigger than the desired hole by twice this offset.

When using a template to cut a filler (i.e. the male part), the offset is equal to half the sum of the the guide bushing OD and the bit diameter. This resulting filler width (or diameter) will be twice this amount smaller than the template since the offset goes all the way around. You need to make your template bigger than the desired hole by twice this offset.

If the template and the bit is the same for both of the above, you have to use a smaller guide bushing when cutting the filler. If you do the math, the guide bushing for the filler piece needs to be twice the bit diameter smaller than the guide bushing for the hole.

Example:
-Hole Guide bushing = 1" OD
-Bit diameter = 1/4"

- The filler guide bushing must be 1"-(2 x 1/4") = 1"-(1/2") = 1/2".

A 1/4" diameter bit should fit inside a 1/2" diameter guide bushing so this solution should work. Make sure you consider the wall thickness of the guide bushing when selecting sizes. If you change the above example to use a 3/8" bit (i.e. change the 1/4" to 3/8" in the above example and do the math), the math still works but you can't fit a 3/8" bit thru a 1/4" bushing (this is actually a nonsense solution but it illustrates the point).

You could also change both the bit and the bushing to get the desired results but it's a bit more complicated. Here's the equation you have to solve:

D1-d1=D2+d2

Where:
D1=Bushing OD for hole cut
d1=Bit dia for hole cut
D2=Bushing OD for filler cut
d2=Bit diameter for filler cut

One last thing to consider. If using a bit that has a larger shank diameter than cutting diameter in a plunge router, make sure the shank will clear the bushing ID at the desired plunge depth. You may need to use a smaller shank bit, or larger bushing to get what you need.

“The single biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place.”
George Bernard Shaw

Robert
Redondo Beach, CA

Last edited by RJM60; 06-20-2011 at 08:39 PM.
RJM60 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
matt1710's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: New Zealand
First Name: Matthew
Posts: 233
 
Default

Ah - the issue I have at present then, is that I only have one guide bushing - a 40mm one. Guide bushing are very hard to come by here - and if you limit yourself to metric (I don't want to go near imperial if I can help it!) then it gets even worse...

Looks like I might have to cut the recess, square up the corners and then go down the rectangular block and hand plane route. It won't be as perfect - but it might have to do.
matt1710 is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 
RJM60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Robert
Posts: 655
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt1710 View Post
Ah - the issue I have at present then, is that I only have one guide bushing - a 40mm one. Guide bushing are very hard to come by here - and if you limit yourself to metric (I don't want to go near imperial if I can help it!) then it gets even worse...

Looks like I might have to cut the recess, square up the corners and then go down the rectangular block and hand plane route. It won't be as perfect - but it might have to do.
You need 2 templates then.

“The single biggest problem in communication is the illusion that it has taken place.”
George Bernard Shaw

Robert
Redondo Beach, CA
RJM60 is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:12 PM
Registered User
 
Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 1,170
 
Default

Matthew, this from left field....... what ever you end up fixing the floor with still has to match the original floor or you will see a 9"x1" or larger section that has been patched plus needs to have the joint line.

Do you have wood that matches what is on the floor? If so a 1/8 inch thick piece cut to fit a routed recess that has been squared at the corners will work with some touch up after it has been glued in place

If you do not have the wood that visually matches the existing floor I might expieriment with powdered wood filler mixed with different stains or dyes until they look similar.

Galatians 5:13
Marco is offline  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:27 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Your making a very job with a router to hard,inlay work with a router and the right guides,, it's a very easy job..

The template can be any size,you just need the right guides.

Router Forums - View Single Post - inlay bushing math

Amazon.com: Trend INLAY/KIT/A Carbide Spiral Bit and Bushing Kit for Inlay Templates: Home Improvement

=========




"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 06-20-2011 at 09:43 PM.
bobj3 is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
matt1710's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: New Zealand
First Name: Matthew
Posts: 233
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco View Post
Do you have wood that matches what is on the floor? If so a 1/8 inch thick piece cut to fit a routed recess that has been squared at the corners will work with some touch up after it has been glued in place

.
I do have some of the original flooring - found it under the house, so it should match reasonably well. I guess I could scribe a thin joint line in - but in reality, it's going to be obvious that it's a patch so scribing a joint line might be a waste of time.

Matthew
matt1710 is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
matt1710's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: New Zealand
First Name: Matthew
Posts: 233
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Your making a very job with a router to hard,inlay work with a router and the right guides,, it's a very easy job..

=========
Bob - can you please fix that sentence?! I'd like to know what you're suggesting. "I'm making a very easy job hard"??
matt1710 is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:57 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,046
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt1710 View Post
I do have some of the original flooring - found it under the house, so it should match reasonably well. I guess I could scribe a thin joint line in - but in reality, it's going to be obvious that it's a patch so scribing a joint line might be a waste of time.

Matthew
Hi Matt - let's not overcomplicate things. You are on the right track to start with, route a recess (or is it rebate) over the damaged area...yes it will have round corners based on the radius of the bit you use. Then just cut a plug on the saw the same size. I usually measure from the fence to the nearest tooth to eliminate kerf issues. To deal with the round corners you can either round off the corners of the plug or chisel the corners of the rebate square. Rounding the corners of the plug is easily done on the router table if you have a roundover bit of the correct radius, just run it through standing on edge perpendicular to the fence, using a push block. Otherwise you can round it over with a sander, file....... what have you although the roundover bit will give the most accurate radius. Good Luck

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome