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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Default Can I route this ?

I'm back to woodworking after a loooong break , and attempting my first console lap steel. If the pictures work , what I need to do is reduce the neck width by approx. 1/2 inch on each side. I don't think a bandsaw will do, as I think the blade will wander Wood thickness is approximately 2". Can I set up an edge guide and route this is multiple passes?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 09:01 PM
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Looking good so far , I would make a template and use a router

Last edited by Semipro; 03-25-2014 at 09:54 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 09:16 PM
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I agree...with semipro...can't see why not, or take the bulk off with bandsaw and finish with router

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 09:25 PM
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I agree with the others. Make a template and use a router but it would help to cut out the basic pattern to about 1/16 to 1/8" from the pattern. Taking a 1/2" wide by 2" deep cut is a lot for one pass. Same goes for the body. It looks like you already have some kind of pattern for it.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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The body will be bandsawed , that's a piece of cake. If you look at pic #3 , the edge that runs along the bottom, alongside the fretboard, is a quarter to a half inch too wide. I can's see using a template there, but I may be able to set up a straight edge to run the router along. I'll use multiple passes to get the depth, but will I be able to reach down to 2 inches?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:41 PM
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…Bearing Bits let you rout half the curve in one direction, flip the work piece over and rout the other half in the opposite direction without repositioning your pattern. Perfect for templates placed above or below the work piece, or to trim laminates or veneer perfectly flush with countertops,…once you have half done you can ride the bearing on that half to finish the job the other half
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 11:04 PM
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I wouldn't do that this way, but I have used this on a couple of other projects, and they worked out very welll.
Cut within 1/16"-1/8", then take the rest of it down with a ROS. It's an option.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 05:41 PM
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You can route anything...
Mostly in agreement; take it down most of the way with a bandsaw, then use a 2" carbide bit in a 1/2 shank (I use a Whiteside PN# 1071 for the jointing system I have set up on my table) with a 1/2" MDF pattern for the final pattern and be careful near the neck/body meet. Prolly take some jigging to keep everything in place. Be worth it for such a nice piece.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys , I appreciate all the replies and suggestions. Some of the help kinda confuses me , especially talk of templates and round over bits. Right now I have no plans to route the main body of the steel guitar , and no plans to round over the neck. My question mainly concerns taking down the width of the neck, the "extra material on each side of the fretboard. I may get a buddy to bandsaw it down to 1/8 " and then try to finish the edge (2''thick) with a straight bit and a straight edge guide. I'll keep you updated

These two pics kinda demonstrate what I'm going for . square neck, with the width just a bit wider than the fretboard area. These beauties are not mine, I borrowed the pics from google.
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Last edited by snkysnake; 03-27-2014 at 09:04 AM. Reason: add pictures
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