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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Default routing out a circle

I have an older B & D Router which I usually have mounted on my router table. Now my project is to insert a circular ceramic tile into wood that is about 8" x 8" and 5/8" thick. The tile, of course, is about 1/4 " thick and, after inserting, I want it to be flush with the wood base. Now, to rout out this circular indent, I have a problem. Tool stores don't seem to have a jig and suggest making one. I don't have any idea how to accurately rout out that circle. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 06:57 PM
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Hi Keith, look for any circle jig from Harrysin.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 07:27 PM
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I found this one from Harry, which seem to suit any router.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Simple circle jig.pdf (343.2 KB, 208 views)
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 10:28 PM
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Set the pivot arm for the tile radius.
Rout 360 degrees and hand rout out the 5/8" space
Using the circle for reference. That is, don't rout though the pathway.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 03:15 PM
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Hey JW, thanks for the circle jig. I saved that one.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 04:48 PM
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You're creating an inlay, you need the opening to be an exact fit, an adjustable circle jig would better suit your purpose. Unless the tile is perfectly circular, I'd scribe a tight line around it, make orientation marks then set the adjustable jig for an inscribed cut. Wherever the footprint extends beyond the cut use a chisel to remove the excess.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 08:24 PM
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Good thoughts, ron. Though, I wonder about wood movement if it's not plywood. Across 8" you might see 1/8", depending on type of wood and cut. Might need to plan for that.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 10:40 PM
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PhilBa,

To date I can pretty much attest to -0- movement with oak, maple, walnut, purple heart, poplar and Luan, Sapele and Meranti mahogany's. I got no experience doing inlay using pine products. However, I do ensure the male/female items are at least 15% MC when milled and at finish coat.

As for dims, I never embedded male items over 5/32 thick or ceramic products into wood, the materials will surely have dissimilar expand/contract rates. In the past when flooring we always placed rubberized membrane between oak flooring and bthrm tiles. The 1/8" membrane prevented buckling during the hot muggy summers up here

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2015, 03:00 AM
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For the inlay, I feel that you may need an inlay kit:

Inlay Kit : CARBA-TEC

You will still need a circle jig of some description to cut the template, or use the tile to make the template:

Router Workshop: Making An Inlay Template

As per Bob and Rick.....The Router Workshop

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2015, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwalmsley View Post
I have an older B & D Router which I usually have mounted on my router table. Now my project is to insert a circular ceramic tile into wood that is about 8" x 8" and 5/8" thick. The tile, of course, is about 1/4 " thick and, after inserting, I want it to be flush with the wood base. Now, to rout out this circular indent, I have a problem. Tool stores don't seem to have a jig and suggest making one. I don't have any idea how to accurately rout out that circle. Any ideas?
Keith
Hi Keith,

You did not mention whether this is just a round tile, or whether it is a "perfect" circle. If it is just a round tile such as one would add into a floor design, you will want to route not only for the tile, both in the diameter of the circle and the depth, but ALSO for the adhesive you will use to set that tile into the recessed circular opening and the grout you will add around the outer edge of the tile.

If you are going to have a grout line around the outer edge of the tile, your hole (H) will have to be measured as the diameter of the tile at its widest diameter (do not assume the TILE is perfectly round either) PLUS the thickness of two grout lines.

The depth (D) will be 1/4" for the tile PLUS the depth of the tile adhesive you will use.

There is a bit of math involved in locating and cutting this hole correctly the first time and you will only get one chance at this, unless the table can be replaced.

Do not assume that your tile is round, or that your table is square.
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