Need Help With 8" PVC Pipe - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Default Need Help With 8" PVC Pipe

Hi,
I am building a wet tumbler and using PVC for the tumbling drums. I have 6" & 8" PVC pipe. The 6" pipe is schedule 40 and I bought Cherne mechanical plugs for them. They fit and work perfectly. Now my problem. My 8" is schedule 80 and the mechanical plugs I bought are too big for the schedule 80. They are designed for schedule 40.

Schedule 80 and schedule 40 have the same outside diameter. The schedule 80 is thicker pipe (made to be pressurized). I have a router but no router table.

What I need to do is increase the inside diameter of the last two inches of the pipe to the same as schedule 40. I am guessing I will only need to remove 1/4 inch or less.

ANY suggestions as to how to accomplish this? This pipe is about $74.00 a foot so I have to be sure I don't mess it up.

Thanks in advance for any and all input
Doug
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tred1956 View Post
Hi,
I am building a wet tumbler and using PVC for the tumbling drums. I have 6" & 8" PVC pipe. The 6" pipe is schedule 40 and I bought Cherne mechanical plugs for them. They fit and work perfectly. Now my problem. My 8" is schedule 80 and the mechanical plugs I bought are too big for the schedule 80. They are designed for schedule 40.

Schedule 80 and schedule 40 have the same outside diameter. The schedule 80 is thicker pipe (made to be pressurized). I have a router but no router table.

What I need to do is increase the inside diameter of the last two inches of the pipe to the same as schedule 40. I am guessing I will only need to remove 1/4 inch or less.

ANY suggestions as to how to accomplish this? This pipe is about $74.00 a foot so I have to be sure I don't mess it up.

Thanks in advance for any and all input
Doug
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 12:36 PM
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PVC will get very hot when routing and it can melt onto the bit making a real mess of things. Also the bit will like to take chunks out of the plastic and throw them everywhere. You'll need to slow your router down when you try to cut the rabbit. The whole idea of using a router to expand the inside diameter is interesting.

I might try a couple of things. First would be to mount 2 pins to rub on the inside of the pipe above the cut to hold the router bit the correct position for the rabbit. But I would try it on a scrap of other pip first.

Another thought I had was to cut a circle into a board that the 8" pipe will fit into so you can rotate it easily. Mount the router at the correct position on the board with the bit sticking through at the correct position to make the cut. Make very small cuts with each pass.

My experience with PVC is it makes pretty good shrapnel if the bit is allowed to grab it. Good luck.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 02:17 PM
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Is there a bit long enough to route 2" deep? Might try making a reducer out of plywood rings and stack them up after they are cut out. Or buy a coupling and make a plywood reducer to fit inside. Or if the OD's are the same use the coupling and put the 80 in one side and the 40 in the other.

Herb

What kind of ends does the pipe have? Bell? Straight?
Make wooden ends to plug the pipe?
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Last edited by Herb Stoops; 05-20-2015 at 02:29 PM.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 02:42 PM
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Or caps for the outside. Two test caps with gear clamps would be a simple solution. Or couplings with one FIP end on each, plus threaded plugs.
I'd go the plumbing fitting route before trying to machine the PVC.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 03:44 PM
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cut two circles out of 3/4 ply for each end 1/16 less than pipe id. Find 1/4 inch cross section oring with the od as close to the pipe ID without being larger (ASA568A-441)Cut a 3/16 x1/16 deep rabbet on the od on one side of the circlesDrill 1/4 inch hole in center for 1/4 carriage bolt. put two circles together with the rabbets facing each other. bolt together with 1/4 inch carriage bolt. Stretch the oring so it fits in the groove fromed by the twp rabbets. Slip in the ed of the pipe and tighted the bolt to squeezw the oring.

Another approach would be to make two taper wood plugs the will start into the pipe. Drill a 1/4 hole in the center of each. Get a piece of all thread long enugh to fit through the pipe and plugs.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 05:20 PM
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I tried finding 8" fittings for the PVC....good luck with the 8" availability. It's basically a municipal water supply, and maybe some industrial app., situation.
You'd have to go to a glue on cap on one end and a glue on coup. with a FIP thread at the outside end, with a threaded plug at the outside end. With a round slick interior there won't be much tumbling happening.
The coupling and cap have the same outer diam. so that's what would ride on your drive roller.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 05:24 PM
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The only safe way to cut the inside of the pipe is on a lathe,either wood or metal. Maybe a machine shop could chuck them up and turn them to size with boring bars. and I suppose they could be mounted on a wood lathe and cut inside like a bowl too.

Herb
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 12:49 AM
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I'm guessing machine shop time will cost more than plbg. ftgs....
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 12:57 AM
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