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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Default Porter Cable 892

Hi all. Not been on for a while.

I just bought a Porter Cable 892 router for use in my Incra/Woodpeckers table and lift. Because I'm in the UK, I've had to modify a stepdown transformer to take the router's plug (saves cutting it off and invalidating the warranty). No issues, it all works fine.

My only complaint is that PC have fitted a sliding lock to the power switch, which prevents the shaft locking pin from being depressed if the power switch is on. The problem with this is that I have to reach under the table to turn the switch off, before I can change bits above the table. Not good for my back and inconvenient.

Normally I would just leave the power switch on permanently and control the router from the NVR switch I've fitted to the table.

What are people's thoughts about removing the locking tab? Is there an easy way to do this? I'm not worried about any safety issues as long as the shaft locking pin is not likely to enter the shaft, due to a failed spring.

Regards,

Alan.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 08:04 AM
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Alan
Here is a link to a recent thread. http://www.routerforums.com/general-...-extender.html I use a muscle chuck in my Triton router with a similar lock out feature. The Xtreme Xtension is also mentioned in this thread. I do suggest unplugging your router when changing bits

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-25-2016, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I don't need to extend the collet/chuck, there's ample room above the table to change bits and I can easily press the shaft lock pin from above too.
Thanks for the advice about unplugging. In practice it's unnecessary because the NVM switch is extremely positive and it's impossible to switch it on by leaning against it. The stop button extends outwards above the start button, so even if you pressed something like a piece of wood against it, the stop button would be activated first.
You really do have to press quite hard with your finger to turn it on, so you really would know you were doing it. If it showed any sign of being faulty, I would replace it.

The main issue is that it's not possible to unlock the shaft locking pin from above the table. I can see the point of having a lock if the router was free standing, because the power switch could get pressed on by mistake, but under the table it's just inappropriate as you can't get to it without opening the cabinet door.

Regards,

Alan.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 09:10 AM
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Alan,

This is what you need Porter Cable Product Details for Router Height Adjustment Kit for 890 Series Fixed Base Routers - Model # 75301

You might also find 3d party adjusters like Porter Cable Height Adjustment Knob | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware This is the adjuster I have and works fine.

Or you might make your own!

Mike
Your BRAIN Is The Most Important Power Tool In Your Shop. Turn It On Before You Turn On Any Other Power Tool.
A Disability Is Only A Disability If You Let It Be One
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 09:17 AM
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Alan the Musclechuck tightens/loosens with an Allen wrench (I believe it's 1/4 turn to do the job, applied at a right angle to the chuck)) which means you may not need the arbor lock at all. You can probably hold the assembly by hand well enough to get bits in and out.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 10:18 AM
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Sorry I just woke up. I use 2 wrenches to change bits

Mike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEBCWD View Post
Alan,

This is what you need Porter Cable Product Details for Router Height Adjustment Kit for 890 Series Fixed Base Routers - Model # 75301

You might also find 3d party adjusters like Porter Cable Height Adjustment Knob | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware This is the adjuster I have and works fine.

Or you might make your own!
Thanks for your thoughts Mike, but in this case it will not work for me. The lift on the table is a Woodpeckers Sidewinder which clamps the motor between 3 blocks which are secured by Allen screws. To unlock the clamps means removing the entire lift from the table.
Woodpeckers supply a long-shaft key to raise and lower the entire router (course adjustment) and the Sidewinder features an exterior handle connected to a flexible cable which turns a fine-threaded rod for very fine adjustment, so there's no problem adjusting the cutter height.
There's also no problem with removing and inserting cutter bits. The only issue is locking the shaft whilst using the Porter Cable single wrench.
The Muscle Chuck may be a good alternative answer as the shaft locking pin would not be used, so the power switch can be permanently left turned on.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, I will look into that. It sounds promising. :-)

Regards,

Alan.
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