Home theatre stand build recommendations - Router Forums
 36Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 15,892
 
Default Home theatre stand build recommendations

Guys and gals , looks as though I have to build myself a stereo stand . I'm liking this design that a gentleman makes and sells in the USA.
The only thing I don't like is having huge spaces between levels , so I will dado slots where required to keep the space the same between equipment. Larger spaces at the bottom getting tighter as you get to the top where the audio gears height is less .


I found stair case posts made from Alder at Windsor plywood . There 3-1/3" by 3-1/3" and 5' high . I thought they would make for a good start for providing the four corner posts . $70 a pop though. Oak is over $100 a post as they were thinking Alder would be to soft?
Sure hate to make a mistake as I'm dadoing

I want to stain it black , and was wondering how you guys felt about the shelves protruding out from the posts . I was debating to put them flush .

As for shelves , it would cost a small fortune to go with anything solid , so I was going to use 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for each platform , and have a 2" tall piece of hardwood glued around it to give it a finished look .
The second shelf will have to support an amplifier that weighs 130 pounds , so I was thinking of laminating 2 layers of Baltic Birch for that layer . Otherwise there's really no weight involved .
I was going to do 3/4" a rabbet joint on the hardwood for the outside perimeter of each level , as this way it will support the Baltic birch better .
Was also thinking of using textured black arborite on the platforms and butting the hardwood perimeter up to it , as I'm thinking the BB may be to soft on top ?

Here's an example of what I would like to mimic the design of .




In the bottom pic I have no idea how he pulled this off, as the levels are sunk into the inside corners .
I guess a guy could start off by dadoing the beginning of the cut , hog out some material with a router , then finish off with a chisel?
It looks more refined to me , but also to many man hours , which I'm short of these days , as I have to get my garage/wood shop insulated for Tom .

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-27-2017 at 03:13 AM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 03:01 AM
Registered User
 
jj777746's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Country: Australia
First Name: James
Posts: 3,875
 
Default

Hi Rick ,you most likely know this trick already,but here goes anyway.If you use BB ply or
MDF for your shelves,you can fill the edges with wood filler (thinned with metholated spirits), sand when dry before painting black..I mean just the edges. Hope all goes well for you .James jj777746
Pots43 and RainMan 2.0 like this.

You can't drive a bridge spike with a tack hammer(so I'm told)
jj777746 is offline  
post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 15,892
 
Default

Yes that's an option I've though about .
I thought a piece of hardwood installed around the perimeter would look a little nicer though , and not really to challenging for a noob like me .

Ideally I'd like to make the individual levels all out of hardwood . A piece of hardwood I seen today that was 2" thick, just what I wanted , and was 7 bucks a linear foot , which would be over the top money wise as each shelf will be approx 24" by 21" by 2" .

So that's why they brought up the Baltic birch plywood idea . The only negative I can see is , if there's a 2" tall piece of hardwood attached to the plywood shelf sides , it could create a pocket underneath to hold heat . Although I hope that wouldn't create an issue

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-27-2017 at 03:18 AM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 05:40 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Country: United States
First Name: Tom
Posts: 1,424
 
Default

Rick,

Looking at the two photos, the construction is completely different between them. In the top photo, the shelves fit into dadoes cut across the face of the corners posts and the shelves fit into these dadoes, projecting out at the end faces. For the second photo, it does indeed look as if the shelves fit into pockets cut into the posts.

You said that you wanted the assembly stained black - did you want "stained black so that the grain still shows" or "stained black so that it looks like a solid part? One way I can see to make the second option would be to make the comer posts as built-up assemblies - joint two strips to make an angle and then glue lengths of square stock into the inside corner, leaving spaces where the shelves would fit. In order to get the same effect as the photo, you would have to go with thick stock, probably 8/4, and then match up the size of the square stock to suit the inside leg of the angle. I think this option would be pretty easy to do as you would make the length of the angle assemblies as needed and then cut the filler blocks as sets of four so that the lengths all match and the shelves sit straight. If you plan ahead, I can see assembly of the unit taking place in layers; glue in the four bottom (floor level) blocks in place, drop in the first shelf, then the next set of blocks, etc., etc. - you would need a bunch of clamps in order to do this though.

If you wanted the grain to show through, it would take careful matching of the pieces - the angled corners could be mitered so that the grain match there is not so critical, but you'd have to be more careful matching the grain of the corner blocks, although the joint would be on the inside face.

For the shelves, if you want the thickness to match the "bulk" of the corner posts, make up your edge banding in the width needed to give the shelf thickness you're looking for, cut rabbets on both edges to suit 1/2" BB plywood, cut top/bottom panels of 1/2" BB plywood to size and then glue up the assembly - you'd have shelves the thickness you're looking for but they would be hollow. For the shelf to hold the amplifier, go with 3/4" BB - and you could sandwich strips between the layers to prevent any sag, kind of a pseudo torsion-box assembly.

I'd have to think on the second option for a while - thinking a template for the router, if used twice on the adjacent edges would give you the square corners. The first cut would give a flat bottom with square corners but a radius to match the cutter in the vertical corners. Flip the post so that the back of the initial pocket is on the bottom and take a second cut - this would only take out the radius in the two corners from the first operation. I think it's doable, but you would have to be real careful about getting the pockets lined up along the length of the posts, but it can be done with the routing template and a series of story sticks locating off the bottom of the corner post. Does that sound like a way to cut those posts?
gmercer_48083 and RainMan 2.0 like this.
tomp913 is offline  
post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 15,892
 
Default

Thank you for the post Tom . I better kibosh the second idea, to darn hard for a rookie to pull off .
If I did go that route , I was thinking that after seeing what is cut out of a corner post after using a dado , and maybe hogging more material out with a router bit , to build a template and cut the corners of each platform to fit inside accordingly ? Dumb idea I know .

So I'll go back to to the first option as it's acceptable looks wise to me . I also thought with the first option that maybe it would look better if there was a slight radius/contour on the front of the levels . Have them flush at the posts and then the middle would protrude out a bit . Maybe uglier than anything lol.

You have a good point about stain , and I did prefer seeing the grain look . If I painted it , I guess I could fill the gaps and make it look like a solid piece . But preferring the grain look , plus I want to be able to remove the screws from the sides and salvage the individual platforms in case I need to change the heights of the levels by replacing all the side posts . At 100 bucks a pop

One other idea I had . Turn the shelf 90 degrees , then your not looking at the dadoed out area . Your pretty much seeing a shelf recessed back a bit .
A guy could cut in deeper so the levels would be closer to the front, or glue a piece on the front to extend it a bit . Tough call, as you'd see the screw holes or plugs , and I don't want to glue the whole assembly together

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-27-2017 at 01:43 PM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 15,892
 
Default

I do have a 15" planer , but missed the boat and didn't buy a jointer when I had the chance . If I had a jointer , I could make each level out of several glued pieces .
I think BB should be ok though for the platforms though.

Tom , my speakers are gloss black , and so is my present stereo stand (its metal and glass) .
Ideally the steel look would be best case scenario looks wise . I guess if I primed the wood and put filler in spots and sanded enough , I could spray paint with some plastic coat paint to simulate steel?
Or is there a black wood stain that's glossy?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20170826_155613_resized.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	496.4 KB
ID:	295201  


I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-27-2017 at 01:51 PM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 01:54 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 13,965
 
Default

Rick; Alder isn't "too soft" for furniture construction. Not the hardest, but KD Alder is pretty decent.
Having said that, are there any stair mfg. shops in your area? A lot of them sell parts and pieces to finish carpenters/contractors who do interior stair installations.
I'll bet you could get better material cheaper from them! (Remember the "WP" comment a couple of weeks ago?).
If you have spare time you might want to wander out to the shop; there's some work out there waiting to get done...
RainMan 2.0 likes this.
DaninVan is offline  
post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 15,892
 
Default

Dan , Winsor Plywood is a last option , but the only place you can buy Baltic Birch , and there no custom stair shops here . We're not exactly Vancouver here lol .

I kind of wanted the Alder for the posts if I could . Did notice a lack of grain , but that could be with all staircase posts for all I know . And at this point I'm thinking of trying to make it look glossy black like steel . Did see a French stain that they use on pianos ,but looks very labour intense .
Tough decisions


Oh btw , I'm thinking put the kibosh on the shop for a bit as it's really sidetracking my alternate ideas right now

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-27-2017 at 02:32 PM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 04:00 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 13,965
 
Default

"Oh btw , I'm thinking put the kibosh on the shop for a bit as it's really sidetracking my alternate ideas right now "
Good strategy, Rick!
RainMan 2.0 likes this.
DaninVan is offline  
post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 04:23 PM
Registered User
 
dovetail_65's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Dovetail
Posts: 1,610
 
Default

Alder is soft, very soft, I cant even use it. If you use it for furniture it better be something that you dont mind dents in.


Alder is far softer than any yellow pine or fir and half as hard as Oak, actually less than half as hard as Oak.
dovetail_65 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OT: Home Depot KhalTom Lobby 36 05-25-2017 12:35 AM
How Wide Is Your Home Plate Frankj3 Lobby 13 09-06-2016 05:16 PM
Anyone interested in showing there home theatre systems RainMan 2.0 Lobby 40 07-01-2014 10:39 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome