Attach legs to table base - Router Forums
 6Likes
  • 1 Post By JIMMIEM
  • 3 Post By mimac
  • 2 Post By Cherryville Chuck
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
Contributor of the Month
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 869
 
Default Attach legs to table base

I'm making a Red Oak sofa server similar to the attached picture. My top will be 24" X 14 3/4" X 3/4" made up of edged glued boards. Top will be attached to the skirt boards with table top clips. The legs will be 1 3/4" X 1 3/4". I am planning on attaching the legs to the base with screws driven up through the bottom of the base. The screw heads will be recessed and the screw holes elongated to allow for wood movement. Any other methods to attach the legs to the base?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	SSSMI.jpg
Views:	173
Size:	31.3 KB
ID:	312481  

Danman1957 likes this.

Last edited by JIMMIEM; 12-03-2017 at 09:05 PM. Reason: change info
JIMMIEM is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-03-2017, 10:14 PM
Registered User
 
mimac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Country: Canada
First Name: Brian
Posts: 434
 
Default

Sliding dovetails
Danman1957, Stick486 and ggom like this.
mimac is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-04-2017, 03:44 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,939
 
Default

Whenever I pin something down that has to allow for movement I make one of the holes with no allowance for movement. In this case I would make the back attachment solid and the ones going forward to allow movement. This keeps the back edge flush. If I were pinning a breadboard end on a table I would make the center attachment solid and let the rest move from the center going outward either way. That way if the end was shorter or longer because of seasonal movement at least it would be equal on both sides instead of possibly being all on one side.
Danman1957 and Stick486 like this.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-04-2017, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
Contributor of the Month
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 869
 
Default

Should I just make the top and base from cabinet grade red oak plywood and edge them with solid wood to eliminate potential movement? Note: I installed solid hardwood floors throughout the house a few years ago and monitor/maintain recommended humidity levels year round via central a/c (summer) and whole house humidifier (winter).

Last edited by JIMMIEM; 12-04-2017 at 08:09 AM. Reason: add info
JIMMIEM is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-04-2017, 11:18 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 14,939
 
Default

You could Jim but plywood doesn't have the same look as solid wood as a rule. There's nothing wrong with that design you just have to allow certain parts to move. The area where you will need to allow movement are:
-The bottom and top rails that the slats attach to. They are cross grain with the top and bottom. Z clips work well for those.
-The braces that hold the legs upright. The bottom edge of those is cross grain and they will be attached to long grain so over time that may cause them to split. I think I would pin the cross rail down with elongated holes and then only attach the "toes" of the braces to the bottom panel. Those braces are mostly there to resist the tipping force of the top.

Everything else is long grain lined up with long grain so there won't be problems with those.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fold down router table Gaffboat Table-mounted Routing 21 09-09-2018 07:41 PM
New fence (Part 2) Out Feed Table Coleve Show N' Tell 23 11-16-2017 01:09 PM
Making sawhorses, the easy way JOAT Project Plans and How To 15 07-07-2016 06:08 AM
Yet another router table build ... JohnBFisher Table-mounted Routing 23 11-13-2014 12:33 PM
Question About Table Legs? Jerry Bowen Lobby 12 03-03-2014 12:28 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome