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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 10:25 AM
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Quite recently my darling wife decided that she wanted to replace our entertainment unit. Because my furniture making days are over I bought her one made in Indonesia from solid Mahogany. It is well made, the top and shelves have cross bars to prevent warping and most importantly, my beloved really likes it. Here are before and after shots.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:31 PM
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If you use two 2 X 12s, you could use a spline between them - maybe even an epoxied metal spline if you are really concerned about sagging under a heavy load. A spline would be a good idea on a 65" span. I've never used it, but for a black finish, would a dye work better than a stain? Don't know; just thinkin'.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:34 PM
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Sorry Bob, I wanted to stain it so I can see the grain . I could cheat and put two supports in the front and back if I have to .
I swear from the pic that it’s warping ,but could be the angle etc

You were talking about using Pine, but it is too expense and unavailable you say, Poplar would probably be my first choice of cheapest hardwoods too. Although I made some chair seats out of Hemlock that stained up good one time. I picked through the pile of 2X8s at the big box store and found some 8' ones that were knot free, and straight grained. I couldn't find any 8/4 poplar, it would have cost a lot more too. Cottonwood might be cheaper.
Not sure how well 2nd growth fir takes stain, it has a lot of resin in it, but if you go to the mill , be sure your lumber is kiln-dried, you might have warping problems in the future. just some things to think about.

Just from experience,I would say that a 24"wide 6/4 board X 62" span will support 69# with no problem without center support. Cherryville Chuck ought to be able to be able to figure that out, I have long ago lost my tables of timber framing stresses.


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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 03:21 PM
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As Herb points out, finding 12" planks of hardwood will be more luck than choice. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't quarter sawing the first choice of sawyers doing hardwood?
That tends to limit the width of planks, unless they're coming off of a very large tree.
Quartersawing, Rift Sawing, and Plain Sawing Explained
I love D. Fir but as Herb points out the pitch pockets are a major p.i.t.a.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses all . I think I’m overly optimistic on the no warping and no bracing sections inbetween .
As mentioned, I have a feeling the boards from this mill are not going to be dried properly .

For finished look ,I really like the pine shelving after it’s stained. It’s only 16” deep, so I’d have to buy extra sections and cut and glue them on to make it 24” deep . Well less than 24” as I’d be adding a border ,as the side wouldn’t look very good .
But I would have to rethink the look.

Also I’m thinking of using plywood and gluing it to the bottom of the pine shelving for thickness and strength .

Wish I was better at welding ,because steel would be a better option in this circumstance, but my welds look like crap lol .

Btw, nice job on the stand Harry
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 03:47 AM
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Hi Rick,I was gonna suggest what Steve @ ScottyDBQ said about splines But I was a bit late. Also,does your timberyard or sawmill guarantee their wood is properly dried?
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 05:02 AM
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Thanks for the responses all . I think I’m overly optimistic on the no warping and no bracing sections inbetween .
As mentioned, I have a feeling the boards from this mill are not going to be dried properly .

For finished look ,I really like the pine shelving after it’s stained. It’s only 16” deep, so I’d have to buy extra sections and cut and glue them on to make it 24” deep . Well less than 24” as I’d be adding a border ,as the side wouldn’t look very good .
But I would have to rethink the look.

Also I’m thinking of using plywood and gluing it to the bottom of the pine shelving for thickness and strength .

Wish I was better at welding ,because steel would be a better option in this circumstance, but my welds look like crap lol .

Btw, nice job on the stand Harry
If you are going to double up 2 layers of 3/4", then for the edge band front and back you can use a 1X2, that will add strength from sagging.
BTW are you leaving it open all the way through? Or are you putting a back on it? A back will help support the middle too if you are worried about it.

You might do some testing by getting a 6' 2X12 and standing on it flat when it is blocked up off the floor and you will get an idea of how strong they are. we used to use them for scaffold planks, and on an 8' span just one wide would support a 250 lb. person easily, and you are talking 69 lbs. on 2 of them side by side glued together on a 5' span.

Just saying ,

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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If you are going to double up 2 layers of 3/4", then for the edge band front and back you can use a 1X2, that will add strength from sagging.
BTW are you leaving it open all the way through? Or are you putting a back on it? A back will help support the middle too if you are worried about it.

You might do some testing by getting a 6' 2X12 and standing on it flat when it is blocked up off the floor and you will get an idea of how strong they are. we used to use them for scaffold planks, and on an 8' span just one wide would support a 250 lb. person easily, and you are talking 69 lbs. on 2 of them side by side glued together on a 5' span.

Just saying ,

Herb
That’s a great point with the 2x12 Herb , as there strong as all heck . I’m almost thinking about glueing that pine shelving to the 2x12 , as that would create a nice thick look I’m after and be 2-1/4” thick .
My main concern would be the 2x12 warping from all the tightbond glue . Maybe if it was well clamped for a day?
I guess I could put the kibosh on glue and just air nail the pine shelving to the 2x12 , but it would be stronger if they were glued together and acted as a composite I would think.


I could install a back , but I was actually going to use this metal mesh stuff to hide the back wall .
Nothing says I can’t have a few supports though

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 10:33 AM
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Does it matter if the top's thicker, Rick?
Just rip a bunch of 2x4 or 2x6 to the thickness you want...2"?...and glue up a 'benchtop'...16 lengths I think(?).
Do it in two 12" panels, run it through the planer, then glue them together for your 24" top
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Does it matter if the top's thicker, Rick?
Just rip a bunch of 2x4 or 2x6 to the thickness you want...2"?...and glue up a 'benchtop'...16 lengths I think(?).
Do it in two 12" panels, run it through the planer, then glue them together for your 24" top
Thatís no a bad idea either Dan

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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