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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Default Stereo stand build recommendations

Guys and gals , I need to make a new stand that’s low profile and wide ,that will be sitting below my flat screen tv.
I want my stereo components to sit inside ,and my centre channel speaker to sit on top .

I really like the robust minimalist look of this one I found in this pic,but I’m concerned about the top warping ,as my centre channel speaker is 69 pounds .
My version will be 2’ deep and 65” wide , and not as tall . I am going to wall mount my flat screen ,so it will not be resting on top of the stand, just the speaker .

Does this stand look like it is made from solid wood , and any suggestions how to pull this off?
If it is solid, I’m assuming you glue several sections together.
I want to stain it black if that changes anything .
If I was to purchase pine at Windsor Plywood , this project would probably cost a few thousand dollars . We have a mill near by ,but I’m not sure what they have available. A friend was there once and bought Fir, but after reading about Fir ,they don’t recommend it for staining .
I’m almost wondering if a guy would have to add a piece of angle iron inside the wood some how , as the long width looks prone to warping ?
I didn’t want to add center supports ,but it may come to it .

So I guess I’m wondering what type of wood would be cost effective and strong enough not to warp
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
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Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 08-26-2018 at 05:19 PM.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
Guys and gals , I need to make a new stand that’s low profile and wide ,that will be sitting below my flat screen tv.
I want my stereo components to sit inside ,and my centre channel speaker to sit on top .

I really like the robust minimalist look of this one I found in this pic,but I’m concerned about the top warping ,as my centre channel speaker is 69 pounds .
My version will be 2’ deep and 65” wide , and not as tall . I am going to wall mount my flat screen ,so it will not be resting on top of the stand, just the speaker .

Does this stand look like it is made from solid wood , and any suggestions how to pull this off?
If it is solid, I’m assuming you glue several sections together.
I want to stain it black if that changes anything .
If I was to purchase pine at Windsor Plywood , this project would probably cost a few thousand dollars . We have a mill near by ,but I’m not sure what they have available. A friend was there once and bought Fir, but after reading about Fir ,they don’t recommend it for staining .
I’m almost wondering if a guy would have to add a piece of angle iron inside the wood some how , as the long width looks prone to warping ?
I didn’t want to add center supports ,but it may come to it .

So I guess I’m wondering what type of wood would be cost effective and strong enough not to warp
KD Doug Fir,or Hemlock 2X12's should work for the top and cut them full length to sit on the ends should support your speaker. If you rip the center to make a square edge then glue them together, it will give you 22" wide. You can add a 2" filler strip between them to get a full 24" wide.
Then dado in the shelf on each end. (2) 2X12X 8' L (1) 2X4 X 8' L =Top +Ends
(1) 2X12X 12' L (1) 2X4X 8' L = Shelf

Put some castors on it to move it around.

Herb
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Last edited by Herb Stoops; 08-26-2018 at 07:20 PM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 07:53 PM
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Just gong by that picture, I would say cut a pallet up, and stack two pieces, one atop the other, and you'd have what you want.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 08:13 PM
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Rick, not sure where you are getting your prices, but unless you are building that out of wenge. or some other exotic you are no where near a couple of grand. Personally if I were building that, and painting, I would use poplar. It take paint very well. To calculate the sag, use the sagulator, found here: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ to determine your load needs. I would be very comfortable using 8/4 poplar for that project.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Rick, not sure where you are getting your prices, but unless you are building that out of wenge. or some other exotic you are no where near a couple of grand. Personally if I were building that, and painting, I would use poplar. It take paint very well. To calculate the sag, use the sagulator, found here: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ to determine your load needs. I would be very comfortable using 8/4 poplar for that project.
Sorry Bob, I wanted to stain it so I can see the grain . I could cheat and put two supports in the front and back if I have to .
I swear from the pic that itís warping ,but could be the angle etc

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 09:17 PM
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Bob; Poplar is mostly available as finished mouldings and KD finish lumber up here in BC, not saying somebody like Reimer Hardwood doesn't have it but where Rick is (Cranbrook) the selection is somewhat limited.
Herb's assessment of what's available is pretty much the same here in BC.
Western Maple or Alder would be too more fairly economical alternatives.
https://www.westwindhardwood.com/pro...maple-western/
https://www.westwindhardwood.com/pro...rdwoods/alder/

Should be less than $400 (32 Bdft +/- @ $10/bdft)
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Herb Stoops View Post
KD Doug Fir,or Hemlock 2X12's should work for the top and cut them full length to sit on the ends should support your speaker. If you rip the center to make a square edge then glue them together, it will give you 22" wide. You can add a 2" filler strip between them to get a full 24" wide.
Then dado in the shelf on each end. (2) 2X12X 8' L (1) 2X4 X 8' L =Top +Ends
(1) 2X12X 12' L (1) 2X4X 8' L = Shelf

Put some castors on it to move it around.

Herb
Liking the 2x12 idea . The mill I can go to is about a 30 minute drive. I know they sell fir that needs to be planed , and I did buy a 15Ē planer , but have never hooked it up .

I thought about castors also . Wish they had some type that you can embed so that there not as noticeable

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 10:32 PM
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...I thought about castors also . Wish they had some type that you can embed so that there not as noticeable
How about something like this ball castor with a socket. Drill a vertical hole and insert the socket, then push in the castor. No locking, but this is pretty low slung. If you don't have legs, add a hardwood block to the corners. You can get this kind of castor in a variety of colors to match your cabinet hardware.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 11:17 PM
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I did buy a 15Ē planer , but have never hooked it up .
Do hook it up. They are loads of fun, noisy, and make lots of shavings. I used to get my little shop knee deep in shavings at times. Love my planer.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 08:51 AM
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With the weight of the components in the center of the shelves and add the heat load from the components and I would think that it would start sagging in the middle.
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