Wooden dam for cutting ceramic tile - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
Iím just assuming youíd get a better life out of the cutter as opposed to dry ?
The set I bought were pretty cheap, so I thought it may be a good idea to help them along . I need to cut two 2-3/4Ē holes , and possibly more if I screw up . I have this feeling they get you threw once and thatís it .
Ok I just read the info on amazon , and it says to use water . So I guess Iíve got the right idea , but perhaps overkill
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 4 1/2Ē diamond disc for an angle grinder that was advertised as wet or dry. It would be pretty hard to use wet. I canít believe how much stucco, brick, block, and rock itís cut so far and itís still going. I think it mostly depends on what the diamonds are brazed on with and how high a temperature it can stand. Diamonds can get red hot and that doesnít seem to affect them. If the instructions say use water then do it. If the bits are made to cut glass then the water may be to keep the glass from shattering due to uneven heating.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:06 PM
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" If the bits are made to cut glass then the water may be to keep the glass from shattering due to uneven heating."
-Charles
Maybe keep the silica dust under better control as well. Don't need to be breathing that stuff!
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 11:46 AM
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In the sign business I saw several people cutting mirror, glass and tile using the method Brian mentioned. They put a donut of what looked like plumbers putty around the hole and filled it with water.

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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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In the sign business I saw several people cutting mirror, glass and tile using the method Brian mentioned. They put a donut of what looked like plumbers putty around the hole and filled it with water.
That would work great ,with one exception, mosaics . I just thought about this,and it would be tough to seal all the small cracks between the little tiles .
I think my idea should work great for that application
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
Iím just assuming youíd get a better life out of the cutter as opposed to dry ?
The set I bought were pretty cheap, so I thought it may be a good idea to help them along . I need to cut two 2-3/4Ē holes , and possibly more if I screw up . I have this feeling they get you threw once and thatís it .
Ok I just read the info on amazon , and it says to use water . So I guess Iíve got the right idea , but perhaps overkill
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a one-off, cut a piece of foam rubber (sponge) to fit inside the cutter, then soak it in water and cut away.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Well I tried it yesterday and it worked awesome . Actually better than anticipated,as I had to line the bit up with the felt marker line I traced ,so I could see it clearly.
Also I cut kerdi board templates , and Iím going to tape them to the tule as a guide and see how that works , as opposed to guiding the hole saw to the felt marks.

I should have taken video, as it certainly has no shortage of water cooling as itís swirling around the bit
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:58 AM
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Looking good, Rick.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:12 AM
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Latex Caulk is real easy.
.
Butyl rubber works better than latex...
but putty is still the least mess and waste...
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