Making zero clearance insert for plate for table saw - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 06:25 PM
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Short answer...? Yes...

When you draw the line around the original onto your intended piece, remember to JUST BARELY cut the line out when cutting. If you're going to use a bearing guided bit and router, make sure the original and the intended is well tacked together with one of the above methods.

Be careful not to slip or the whirly thingie will make pieces that will defy gravity until one of them hits a vital part of the body...
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 07:58 PM
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I did that to make an insert for my mitre saw. It's made quite a difference in the cut too which surprised me.
I'll have to make one for the new contractor's table saw now that I finally pulled the trigger and bought it.
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 08:56 PM
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I cut mine out with a band saw, sticking to the edge of the line. A touch of sanding and it fit perfectly. This also made it easier to cut the space for the splitter or riving knife. I make 3 or 4 at a time. One for a dado stack you can quickly put in place with a sacrificial fence for rabbets and such. I have a Laguna saw and bought a blank insert for it to use as a pattern.

You can also use the pattern to set the table saw fence and cut to exact width. Then you only have to do the curve.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 11-23-2019 at 09:32 PM.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking using the cnc when it’s up and running , but you’d need the perfect fitting vector first .
May be able to pull it off in Aspire if the ends are actual circles
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
I was thinking using the cnc when itís up and running , but youíd need the perfect fitting vector first .
May be able to pull it off in Aspire if the ends are actual circles
Bet I could make 100 or so before you got the pattern into the software.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Bet I could make 100 or so before you got the pattern into the software.
Bet you make 1000 before my garage is you know what

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 10:01 PM
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Bet you make 1000 before my garage is you know what
Note that I carefully sidestepped that bit of nastiness.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 10:03 PM
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If you've been reading my posts tonight, you know I'm in a mood tonight. That happens on occasion. I think it started with Harry's post on Johnny Carson.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 09:37 AM
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For those planning to make zero-clearance inserts, here are a couple of helpful (hopefully) tips.

- With a z-c insert, it's best that it fits in the recess with minimal clearance, Check the factory insert, determine where it's loose and build up those areas with blue tape. Use the modified insert to cut a "master", check it's fit in the recess and adjust as needed. Then mark it as your master and use it to make the inserts that you need.

- Not sure about other brands, but the big problem with the insert on my Unisaw is that it's thicker than the distance from the top down to the tip of the teeth. Various methods have been used to rough in a starter groove - outside blade from your dado set ("But I don't have a dado............") or the 7-1/4" blade from a circular saw, etc. The perfect solution is one of those ideas that, when you see it, you smack yourself on the forehead and think, "Why didn't I think of that?" Basically, you take a piece of 1/4" plywood,hardboard or MDF, rough it to size, trim to your master pattern and rough in a clearance slot with your jigsaw (But I don't have..........) - make the clearance slot wide enough to use with a dado set, just in case. Drop this in the recess and set your blank on top, clamp everything down and raise the saw blade up through the spacer and cut the slot in your insert. Store the spacer with your master pattern and you're ready to make as many inserts as you need.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Zero-Clearance Insert Spacer.pdf (262.5 KB, 35 views)
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
I was thinking using the cnc when itís up and running , but youíd need the perfect fitting vector first .
May be able to pull it off in Aspire if the ends are actual circles
Rick, I have the sneakin' suspicion that the world will have moved on to something new by the time you get up and runnin'. Just a hunch, mind you, I was wrong once before.
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