Making zero clearance insert for plate for table saw - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Making zero clearance insert for plate for table saw

Now I have to wonder why this never dawned on me . I’m watching this guy build a sled for his table saw ,when later on in the video he makes a zero clearance plate .
For whatever reason I never thought to use the factory plate as a template , duh!
Is this the standard way of doing it and I’m not paying attention ?

@7:00


I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 06:50 PM
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ain'ja reading the how to posts here Rick..
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 06:50 PM
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Yes. The template I mean
Make a bunch (4 - 6).
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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ain'ja reading the how to posts here Rick..
For some reason I don’t recall seeing using the factory insert as a jig . Gotta start paying attention ,but being autistic it’s tough some days

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 07:47 PM
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That's what I do. I add a couple of drops of hot melt glue to a piece of mdf and stick em together and then either use a pattern or flush trim. My unisaw takes a fairly thick insert and it has set screws to level it with the top. The mdf threads just fine for the set screws and there is enough friction in the threads to keep them turning in use. I made about 6 last time I made some. Then when I use them I write in felt tip on the underside which blade and whether I used stabilizers etc. If you were making zero clearance for a dado set you could have one for every width stack you use.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-22-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I do. I add a couple of drops of hot melt glue to a piece of mdf and stick em together and then either use a pattern or flush trim. My unisaw takes a fairly thick insert and it has set screws to level it with the top. The mdf threads just fine for the set screws and there is enough friction in the threads to keep them turning in use. I made about 6 last time I made some. Then when I use them I write in felt tip on the underside which blade and whether I used stabilizers etc. If you were making zero clearance for a dado set you could have one for every width stack you use.
Iím liking the hot glue idea . Never thought of that one

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 09:41 AM
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I do the same as Cherryville Chuck except I use double-stick tape. I also tap the holes for the leveling screws in 1/2" plywood.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well I really have to build some next spring ,as I’ve had problems with small parts falling in the arbour .
Mine has a little pin in the front to hold it in place I believe . Will have to see if that’s necessary or not.

Probably build me one of those sleds to
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 04:15 PM
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Yes, it is. It stops the plate from lifting, getting caught by the blade and firing it back at you.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, it is. It stops the plate from lifting, getting caught by the blade and firing it back at you.
Well maybe I need a scanner and a 3D printer
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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