for your screws in end grain...

Good concept but in reality very few people have the skills (or equipment) to drill a parrell hole that close to an end grain, anything past 3 1/2 inches depth is probably past most drill presses cabibilities. I have used a variation of your drawing by using a gun drill (16") a 1/4" threaded rod to (12") to strengthen the end of a piece of black walnut, Today I would use my Kregg equipment and a polyurathane glue and forgo the intracate setup required.

Good Luck - Baker

aircraft bits, set the DP's fence and 6" of quill travel will give you plenty of guide hole to go deeper....

say the stock is 3/4" thick...
put a 3/4" fostner bit in the DP..
slide the fence up to the bit and lock it down...
presto... center of stock all done...
swap out bits..
set the stock to the fence...
drill...

Thanks, Stick. I'll add this to my bag of tricks to make my sons think I'm smarter than I look.

I've been thinking I'd like to learn Sketchup over this winter. Where would you suggest learning it for doing projects like this?

Stick, that is such a simple and logical technique that I'm embarrassed it never occurred to me. There have been many, many times I could have used it and I surely will in the future. Thanks.

That is a slick trick Stick, thanks.

If you didn't mind the dowels showing on at least one face of the stock, you could drill them through the other way, like this.

Am I to assume that this would be a glued joint, I'm think yes. otherwise why would you go to the trouble of doing the rebate.

I prefer in this case where the actual joint profile does not add to aesthetic of piece to rather use butt joint with dowel joints. Think of rails on a chair. Modern construction !!

If I would go to the trouble of doing cross drill I would do so to the depth required to insert a cross dowel and furniture screw as below.

My other method is to use Directa screws.

Both the above methods give great holding power with or without glue.

Cheers Paul

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yur welcome...
so now you have a 1/2'' hole and you want the edge of the hole at a 1" reveal...

1/2 of the hole size plus the reveal times two...
or double the reveal and add the hole dia...
that's the size of the forstner bit...
w/ little thought you can do end and edge revels using a stop even if the revel measures are different...

Andy......I had forgotten about Mathias' approach. That would be good in an application where you'd like the "pegged" look, and maybe more doable if someone is limited on equipment. Both ideas are great. Thanks.