Building drawers for underneith work bench - Router Forums
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post #1 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Default Building drawers for underneith work bench

Guys I'm trying to organize my garage so I can actually find something , and I was going to build some drawers underneith my work bench and didn't want to get to fancy or time consuming . I bought the sliders years ago so I have them , guess I need to pick a material and then find out if there's any trade secrets to installing sliders .

Watched a YouTube video and he had the complete slider attached to the cabinet walls . Then he placed a temporary spacer on the floor and put the drawer on the spacers , then pulled out the movable part of the slider out that attaches to the drawer , and put the first screw in the side of the drawer . Then pulled it out further and got the next screw in . Then completely removed the rails of the slider that stay on the drawer part and finished screwing .
He repeated this and put another spacer on the bottom drawer and repeated .

It seemed like a good trick but maybe there's a better way to install drawer guides . I believe there 1/2" wide so if the drawer is 16" wide you would build the surrounding side walls 17" deep .
I seen a jig for this made by Kreg at Windsor a plywood but have no idea if it's necessary.
I figured just get the first ones lined up then put a piece of wood as a jig to stack the next sliders , well according to how deep the drawers actually are . Was going to make the top ones not very tall as I want to store slim things in them for calibration etc.

Any ideas before I proceed would great .

I thinking 3/4" plywood good one side for the drawers and sides of the cabinet , and maybe 1/4" MDF bottoms ?

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #2 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:22 PM
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MDF has almost no structural strength in tension; compression is good.
That translates to a poor choice for horizontal panels with vertical loading, especially in thinner forms like 1/4".
What'll likely happen, if you put any significant weight in the drawers, is that they'll sag over time, especially if the perimeter isn't glued into the drawer sides.
Unlike lumber, and plywood to some extent, MDF won't spring back.
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post #3 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:24 PM
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Just a word of caution...you can always add a shim to a drawer that is too narrow, but you are SOL if it is too tight. That is why I like face frames.

I attach the cabinet side of the glide to the inside of the face frame opening. Then I attach the rear mount to the back. I found it is much easier to adjust those rear brackets than try to adjust the slide against the side wall.

Here's an example. My sweetie is attaching the drawer slide to the back, which I had reinforced with 3/4 inch plywood.

Part II

As far as mounting the drawer slide on the drawer, I don't sweat it at all. I mount the slide flush with the drawer bottom. Easy peasy. The way the full extension drawer slides I use ar built, that will automatically raise the drawer to clear the face frame rail.

Lemme see if I can find a close up.

BTW, those are the 28 inch drawers we put in the corner base cabinets. They work great.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by MT Stringer; 06-25-2015 at 11:26 PM.
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post #4 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks , I seen those pics before Mike and had no idea what you referenced to in the rear of the cabinet before screwing them down ? I Assumed you had cut a piece of wood to act as a template/ guide to figure out the distances .

I actually never noticed that you could attach sliders from the back like that . Gotta check mine I guess if I can find them in the mess and see if there the same

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #5 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
MDF has almost no structural strength in tension; compression is good.
That translates to a poor choice for horizontal panels with vertical loading, especially in thinner forms like 1/4".
What'll likely happen, if you put any significant weight in the drawers, is that they'll sag over time, especially if the perimeter isn't glued into the drawer sides.
Unlike lumber, and plywood to some extent, MDF won't spring back.
Totally agree with Dan on the drawer bottoms.

As far as the opening for the drawers go, look at the slide specs. They will give you the spacing of the drawer in the opening. It will probably require at least 1/2" + 1/16" for clearances but will depend on the maker.

For a typical drawer in a shop cabinet I usually go 19-20" if I can and use a 18" full extension slide. If you want to easily get to the back of the drawer when it is pulled out, use full extension slides and use the longest that will fit the drawer.

Bill
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post #6 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-25-2015, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan1 View Post
Thanks , I seen those pics before Mike and had no idea what you referenced to in the rear of the cabinet before screwing them down ? I Assumed you had cut a piece of wood to act as a template/ guide to figure out the distances .

I actually never noticed that you could attach sliders from the back like that . Gotta check mine I guess if I can find them in the mess and see if there the same
You have to have a bracket for the back of the slide. They are fairly cheap, usually only a couple of bucks for a pair. If you are not attaching the slides to a panel/divider, etc. then you will have to attach to the back of the cabinet like in the photos and will require the brackets.

Bill
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Hi, sorry I missed you. I have gone to find myself, but if I return before I get back, please ask me to wait.

Nothing ever gets built on schedule or within budget.

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post #7 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by schnewj View Post
You have to have a bracket for the back of the slide. They are fairly cheap, usually only a couple of bucks for a pair. If you are not attaching the slides to a panel/divider, etc. then you will have to attach to the back of the cabinet like in the photos and will require the brackets.

Bill
Wow there's so many things I wasn't aware of , Thanks

I kind of like the way Mike did his because it saves me having sides to attach the sliders to . Gotta rethink this .

I should post a pic of what I'm up against

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #8 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:06 AM
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And you'll need the lovely and highly skilled Mrs. Stringer to install them.
Rick, neither you nor I, are squeaking into a 28" cabinet!
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post #9 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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And you'll need the lovely and highly skilled Mrs. Stringer to install them.
Rick, neither you nor I, are squeaking into a 28" cabinet!
Good point , that never occurred to me

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #10 of 331 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
And you'll need the lovely and highly skilled Mrs. Stringer to install them.
Rick, neither you nor I, are squeaking into a 28" cabinet!
Ah! Better add me to that list....

Bill

Hi, sorry I missed you. I have gone to find myself, but if I return before I get back, please ask me to wait.

Nothing ever gets built on schedule or within budget.

Tool Storage Bait and Tackle, LLC.
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