Use router to make shelf pin holes ? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 10:04 AM
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....One word of caution on the cabinets. Make them shallow (see the cabinet in Sticks shop photo). If you make them standard size, then you end up shoving things to the back of the shelves. Other things get piled up in front and you are constantly moving things to get to the back.

Yeah Bill you are so right! I regret every time when i have to move all that pile to reach what I really want! Great advice.
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post #12 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill

....One word of caution on the cabinets. Make them shallow (see the cabinet in Sticks shop photo). If you make them standard size, then you end up shoving things to the back of the shelves. Other things get piled up in front and you are constantly moving things to get to the back.

Yeah Bill you are so right! I regret every time when i have to move all that pile to reach what I really want! Great advice.
Sid.
+1 I think I made the uppers 14 inches deep. Almost too deep but I had plans to store the nail guns up there...and a lot of other stuff.
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post #13 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 11:04 AM
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@RainMan1 ...
the standards are way stronger...
don't bother dadoing them in...
DIY tracks and channels.. cheap too...
@ksidwy ...
11¾ worked out great...
the base is boxed for mechanicals and DC piping...

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...p-experts.html
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #14 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 12:09 PM
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Yes, you can use a router with a 1/4" up spiral bit and a small guide bushing. Use a piece of peg board for the hole spacing and just open up the holes to fit the router bushing. Clamp the peg board in position on your cabinet side and plunge cut the 1/4" holes, moving the router to each enlarged hole in the peg board. I cut my peg board so that one edge provides the spacing that I want from the front edge of the cabinet and label it "Front". I cut the opposite edge for the spacing from the back of the cabinet. The peg board is narrower than any cabinet that I build and I just position and clamp the peg board where I want to put the holes. I usually use my DeWalt 611 router with the plunge base because it's light and easy to use. Before switching to using the router I had a 1/4" VIX bit that I used in a hand drill with a piece of peg board that was made in a similar way, but I had opened the holes to fit the sleeve on the VIX bit. VIX bits are more commonly known for their self centering hinge hole boring capability, but they make one that is for drilling shelf pin holes. The end of the sleeve is flat, so positioning it requires a fixture with holes large enough to fit this sleeve. The end result by either method is about the same, but doing it with the router is a bit faster.

Charley

Central North Carolina
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post #15 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 12:22 PM
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If you want to do doors that slide, be careful of sawdust getting in and making it had to slide. I have a cabinet that has sliders on the bottom and have trouble with that.
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post #16 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 01:17 PM
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sliders.. no issue if you do it right...
these are built to carry weight and a lot of it...
plate mounted SGD wheels on 1/2'' angle....
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 06-29-2015 at 01:23 PM.
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post #17 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 01:36 PM
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When I drill shelf pin holes, I use a Kreg jig (two if more holes are needed). Not cheep but they work good.

Sometimes I use spacers to help position the jig in the right spot.
This works well if you need to drill holes in the middle of a base cabinet.
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post #18 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the replies

Stick I never thought of using rollers for the sliders . I would kinda like them covered although it's probably unnecessary . These enclosed shelves are only going to be accessible with a ladder as I'm pretty much putting stuff up there that I don't use often but need out of the way

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #19 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 02:17 PM
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Rick, you paid a lot of money for that Festool jig, you ought to use it. Doesn't Festool sell the bit to use in their jig? it should be like a "VIX" bit, or if that is punched for a bushing, they will sell you one separate?

You can always just nail some strips on there too to support the shelf , you will probably never adjust the shelves anyway after you get them filled up, and this is a shop, not a library. Just get the shelves up and filled and on to bigger and better things.

Herb
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post #20 of 68 (permalink) Old 06-29-2015, 02:26 PM
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so mortise out the and install them hidden...
which is totally necessary...
milk crate w/ a plywood top is all I need... it's my chair too...
seldom if ever used goes to the top...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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