Best material for building drawers ? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Best material for building drawers ?

Guys I'm not liking the quality of this 3/4" good one side plywood I'm buying here locally . Seems there's always some warping in areas and I can't see that being productive for building drawers . It was bad enough with my wall cabinets

I suspect your all going to say Baltic Birch . It's $89 for a 5'/5' sheet of 3/4" BB here but if you have to you have to .
I have tried building a drawer with 3/4 mdf before but I'm not sure how you guys feel about mdf .
I want to go with 3/4" because I want to segment the drawers into differant sections , so after I dado in 1/4" deep there won't be a lot of material left if I go with to thin a material . Although I could just lap some pieces and throw them in the drawers so that there size can be changed in the future?

Btw These are drawers for my garage , not a kitchen

I'm not going to get to fancy with the joints , just do rabbet joints and miter in a slot for the bottom

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 07-19-2015 at 10:53 PM.
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post #2 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I wasn't aware of this but I just seen this on youtube and I think they called it a lock joint and they said it has been known to be stronger than a dove tail joint.
The video didn't explain how to do it but it looks self explanatory to me .

Ok I watched another video and it showed how to do it . I had it figured out though


I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #3 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:31 AM
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What kind of 3/4 wood do you have available at your local stores?

I have used white pine and regular birch plywood for shop drawers. For the kitchen, I used poplar and maple planed to 5/8 inch. I don't like the look of 1/2 inch and I didn't want 3/4 inch, so 5/8 it is.

The drawers in my workbench are simple 3/4 inch pine with 1/4 inch bottoms. Simple butt joints, glue and brad nails. They get opened and closed many times every day. Two of them are full of clamps.

Just remember that 1/4 inch plywood is not 1/4 inch. If you cut a 1/4 inch groove, the bottom will be loose.

Good luck.
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post #4 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
What kind of 3/4 wood do you have available at your local stores?

I have used white pine and regular birch plywood for shop drawers. For the kitchen, I used poplar and maple planed to 5/8 inch. I don't like the look of 1/2 inch and I didn't want 3/4 inch, so 5/8 it is.

The drawers in my workbench are simple 3/4 inch pine with 1/4 inch bottoms. Simple butt joints, glue and brad nails. They get opened and closed many times every day. Two of them are full of clamps.

Just remember that 1/4 inch plywood is not 1/4 inch. If you cut a 1/4 inch groove, the bottom will be loose.

Good luck.
Mike I started realizing they were not using plywood for drawers as I watched videos . I think HD has pine strips which are super straight . I'll see they have it in 3/4 but I am thinking it was 1/2 .
And yes I also had issues with my wall cabinets as 1/2 plywood is thinner that 1/2 when I did the dado at the rear.

I'm very interested in that lock joint after seeing it , so I think I'm going to try it
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

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post #5 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:15 AM
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The off-size plywood is easily handled by router biots made for that purpose, individually, or in a set of the 3 sizes. Alternatively, dadostacked blades with shims can make precise cuts. there is no need or excuse for loose panels in the bottom or elsewhere.
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post #6 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:31 AM
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I know you guys are all into wood, but consider this material for drawers. It can be cut, sanded, shaped, and glued. It is impervious to water and any non-petroleum based liquid. It can be routed and planed. It is a great material to work with!

LINK
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post #7 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 09:59 AM
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What matrial are you referring to?
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post #8 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 11:10 AM
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Click on the 'link', Charles.

Look at the picture below, Rick. Notice that the finger is 1/2 the thickness of the board? That means way less cutting and a stronger joint than the one shown in your picture.
I'm not sure why they went with such a skinny tenon? I can't think of any advantage over machining one side only?
The other thing is, the back (front) they (your pic) illustrate is massive! Again, no idea why?
5/8" Birch (4 x 8) is great, but I tend to use 3/4" for everything, except for when I use 1/2"...
You certainly don't need A2 for shop cabinets! Find a new source for your lumber; HD wouldn't be my 1st, 2nd or 3rd choice for cabinet building material.

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post #9 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 11:36 AM
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Default Pine is fine

Just regular white pine or whatever they call it these days.

My joinery might not be the norm but it works for me.
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post #10 of 158 (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 11:49 AM
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Damn, you do nice work, Mike!
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