Building cordless drill / air nailer shelf - Router Forums
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post #1 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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Default Building cordless drill , air nailer storage cabinet .

Guys I really liked Mikes shelf that he built to hold his drills and air nailers . I have gotten my own version started but I am changing it up a bit as I am putting two shallow drawers underneath to hold all the differant air nails and screw driver bits .

So I did rabbet joints on the lower and top pieces , and dadoed a slot for the middle piece .In this pic the bottom is to the left and the top to the right , just to avoid confusion .
It hasn't been glued yet as I have more slots to dado in .


My mistake is I really should have done the rabbets on the sides as now I'm going to have one hell of a time dadoing 1/4" slots on the upper and lower parts to put dividers in and get the measurements even because the top and middle sections are differant lengths when disassembled.
Originally I was going to rabbet the sides but I couldn't afford to loose any height as I cut them to short .
This is how it sits . The narrow part is the bottom for the drawers



I still have to dado in the slot to add a divider between the drawers , which is still going to be a careful cut because of them being differant lengths .

I'm thinking that because it's going to be a pain to dado in all the upper and lower slots for 1/4 dividers that maybe I should go with 1/2" dividers instead and install them with pocket screws . This way all I need is a spacer to hold each vertical divider and just screw them in . That's assuming there's enough room for the drill to install the pocket screws which I believe there will be
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 07-24-2015 at 01:07 AM.
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post #2 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Actually I just had another thought . Instead of using a dado blade on the table saw to make the slots for the dividers , assemble the cabinet and then use my router to make the slots . All I would need is a spacer for the router to sit against and guide it

Sure as heck it will get away on me though

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 07-24-2015 at 12:30 AM.
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post #3 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 01:04 AM
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Should be an easy workaround Rick. Make a spacer the width of the difference between the shelf width and the cabinet bottom width at one side. Make a dado on the shelf bottom referenced to the fence, then use the spacer between the shelf and the fence to account for the offset. Use your miter gauge and make the corresponding dado in the shelf bottom. Move fence and repeat.
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post #4 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Should be an easy workaround Rick. Make a spacer the width of the difference between the shelf width and the cabinet bottom width at one side. Make a dado on the shelf bottom referenced to the fence, then use the spacer between the shelf and the fence to account for the offset. Use your miter gauge and make the corresponding dado in the shelf bottom. Move fence and repeat.
Thanks Jeff as that's a good idea

I can hardly wait to complete this . I'm really looking forward to having a place where I can always find air nails and screw driver bits . I'm going to make some half lap dividers inside the drawers and fill it with all the common lengths of air nails . I bought a husky plastic tool box but it didn't like the weight of the air nails and kinda bent

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 07-24-2015 at 01:16 AM.
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post #5 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 01:59 AM
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I'm right behind you Rick, I can't wait to get this project started in my shop and I really like what you've done so far. Every little mistake you make now, I won't have to repeat when I start mine. Now I've just got to re-surface 300sq' of deck, build a carport over the 12x24 pad that was poured behind my garage today, and it's on to laying down french cleats. Bet I'm done before your insulation is in
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post #6 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 08:54 AM
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You're still teaching me Rick! Thanks.
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post #7 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 09:12 AM
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Rick, if you lay your boards on a bench you can line them up and use a straight edge to make your dadoes with your router. Imagine getting a tip like that on a website like this; what is the world coming to?

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post #8 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Rick, if you lay your boards on a bench you can line them up and use a straight edge to make your dadoes with your router. Imagine getting a tip like that on a website like this; what is the world coming to?
Mike I have Festool track to but I bought the wrong parts and I can't get the router to attach to it yet . I know I don't need track but I want to try it onetime .
I'm going to use the TS for now I think

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #9 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 10:17 AM
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It's getting very good! Rick. congrats
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post #10 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 11:36 AM
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Rick,

If there's enough distance between the top and shelf for your router, adding the grooves for the dividers is easy as long as the back isn't permanently attached yet (I'm assuming this from your post). Make an accurate T-Square out of a couple of scraps, set the base against the edge of a scrap board and rout through the end - this will give you an exact location for the groove and, as you're using (I think) 1/4" hardboard, a standard 1/4" bit will work. Lay out the location of the dividers on the top and shelf, set the T-Square in place with the edge of the slot lined up with the mark, clamp the end so it doesn't move and rout your slot. With no back in the cabinet, you can flip the T-Square end for end and rout from either side as you get close to the sides. As far as the dividers for the drawers in the lower area, make a block of the appropriate width, slide the divider up against it to fix the location and nail it in place - it's just a shop cabinet, a little glue and some finish nails is all you need. All my original shop wall cabinets are built with the tops,, bottoms and shelves glued into dadoes/rabbets and held with narrow crown staples and they've held up for 20+ years - wish I'd put adjustable shelves in them now but that's another story. Mostly use pocket holes now but still use dadoes and staples for a cabinet that's a little unwieldy.

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