Wintergreen oil vs lacquer thinner pattern transfers - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Default Wintergreen oil vs lacquer thinner pattern transfers

We've had an on-again / off-again discussion about transferring laser printed patterns to wood. Barb (outofthewoodwork) has been successfully using wintergreen oil while I have been having good results using lacquer thinner.

I finally got some wintergreen oil and gave the the two methods a side-by-side test. The pattern was printed on my laser printer and taped to a piece of pine so it wouldn't move around. Barb said she uses a Q-tip to apply the oil so I used a Q-tip to apply both the thinner and the oil.

I did the lacquer thinner image first and followed my usual method of lightly rubbing the paper with the lacquer thinner soaked tip. I found when using the oil that I had to burnish harder with the Q-tip than I did with the lacquer thinner so there may be some variance because of the difference in how I burnished each image.

You can see the results in the final photo. From an application standpoint the wintergreen oil is clearly more pleasant to work with and would be the method of choice when working in a small room without good ventilation.

And the Winner Is: Still undecided for me. The two methods yielded remarkably similar results. The oil left residue on the wood that the thinner didn't but that probably isn't an issue when the project is finished. I think you could be happy using either method.

EDIT: Going back and looking at the two transfers an hour or so after taking the pictures I would say the Wintergreen oil gives crisper edges (as seen in the type). Since the lacquer thinner is ... well ... thinner, the image tends to bleed a little. So if fine detail is important, the wintergreen oil may have the edge.
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Last edited by Gaffboat; 10-06-2015 at 03:11 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 03:44 PM
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If you've had other conversations about this then you may already have discussed this. I use an inkjet printer for this. I use a peel and stick sheet from which all of the sticker part has been peeled off; you basically are using a piece of wax paper at this point. You print onto that shiny surface, sometimes using "draft" mode is best, and then you just lay it on/burnish it to the wood. Easy peasy.

Here's a quickie I did for my tomo nagura box:
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 07:47 AM
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Has anyone tried ironing on a laser printer one?
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 08:17 AM
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Default Laser & iron

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Has anyone tried ironing on a laser printer one?
I haven't used a clothes iron, but I've used a woodburning pen with a large flat tip. Works pretty well but takes time and is very temperature and pressure sensitive. I'll try wintergreen oil next time I need to do a transfer.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 09:39 AM
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I got to watch Barb at work with the winter-green oil a few weeks back. I was simply AMAZED at how quickly and easily she got the image transferred to the wood. I've never seen the lacquer thinner method, but if it's anything close to the winter-green oil, it would be a hard choice to make.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 10:07 AM
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Default When using the Ink Jet

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Originally Posted by LBussy View Post
If you've had other conversations about this then you may already have discussed this. I use an inkjet printer for this. I use a peel and stick sheet from which all of the sticker part has been peeled off; you basically are using a piece of wax paper at this point. You print onto that shiny surface, sometimes using "draft" mode is best, and then you just lay it on/burnish it to the wood. Easy peasy.

Here's a quickie I did for my tomo nagura box:


Can you tell me how long is the delay is between printing and burnishing onto the wood?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 10:35 AM
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Can you tell me how long is the delay is between printing and burnishing onto the wood?
You have a surprisingly long time to do it. In my case it was long enough to print it, walk to the garage, find the damned box I intended to place it upon, and then decide how to make sure I laid it on straight/smoothly.

If I were forced to guess I'd bet the time was close to 5 minutes.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:44 AM
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Thanks to the ACME research labs for this insightful study. I have done the acetone trick, but not a lot of others. I might have to try this with some of my scroll saw patterns instead of gluing them on. If I could find RED toner, that would be even better!

D

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kp91 View Post
Thanks to the ACME research labs for this insightful study. I have done the acetone trick, but not a lot of others. I might have to try this with some of my scroll saw patterns instead of gluing them on. If I could find RED toner, that would be even better!

D
@kp91

If you make your printouts from a color laser you can transfer any color you want, Doug. Here's a link to Barb's excellent video on how she uses wintegreen oil.

If I had watched it again before I made my test I wouldn't have used too much oil as I did in a few areas.

@OutoftheWoodwork

Maybe Barb can chime in with some comments and advice.

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Last edited by Gaffboat; 10-07-2015 at 11:14 PM.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:27 PM
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Thanks for posting that Oliver, that is quite different than I had envisioned it. I had tried the hot iron,wood burning tool before with terrible results and never went back.

When you mentioned the solvent transfer, I thought it was soaking a lot of solvent on the back of the paper and letting it dry, I didn't realize it had to be pressed on with a scraper. I will have to retry this method.

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